By: Kwanchanok ‘Jeab’ Meechai- Thailand Country Director
This is a nice snack you often see being cooked by the side of the road. It is called Khanom Buang. It looks a bit like Mexican tacos but the taste is of course very different. The pictures here were taken from Silom Road when I just walk pass by when I go to work.
Tacos- Thai Style
It looks simple but I assure you that it is harder than it looks. First he spread a batter mix onto the hot plate. When this was just starting to set, he then spread on top a generous helping of coconut cream.
He then placed on top of this a variety of different toppings. One version has shredded coconut and golden threads. This is made from strips of egg yolk as you can see from the photo. It is the lighter orange mixture. Another version has shredded coconut and either coriander or chopped spring onions. It’s darker orange mixture which is in fact shredded coconut with a colouring agent.
Try some the next time you are next in Thailand. They are very tasty!… Read more »
For those who have an international flight scheduled out of Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport over the upcoming months, Suvarnabhumi Airport is currently undergoing renovation of airport security screening which will affect immigration lines at its Main Terminal until the end of April 2012.
Please allow 3 hours for check-in and immigration for international departures (Andrea just transited through this airport and she reported you definitely need the time!).
**Domestic services are not affected**
Official Press release from Thai Airways:
Due to renovation of immigration & security check areas at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport, usage of some facilities is being restricted, and there is severe congestion which requires a lot of time for immigration procedures.
In order for passengers not to miss their flights, for the time being, it is recommended to come to the airport for check-in THREE HOURS before departure time (check in counters are available 6 hours before departure time).
For those passengers whose final destinations are Phuket, Chiang-mai, Chiang-rai, Krabi, Samui, Hat Yai, it is also recommended to come to passport control area for immigration with sufficient time.
There are so many exotic and weird foods in Laos. I could seriously go on and on for days on the foods or dishes you can find throughout this country. Lao people eat anything and everything- Everything. If it walks, crawls, slithers, swims, flies or grows (is catchable and isn’t poisonous) it is eaten. This is one of the main reasons why you won’t see much wildlife outside of protected national parks and even then it can be difficult.
The Lao have not really been educated on the importance of protecting wildlife and certain species, especially in the countryside. Most of the Lao people are still very much hunters and gatherers. If it is edible then it will be hunted and every part of the carcass will be used or consumed. They are not wasteful when it comes to food!
I personally am very adventurous when it comes to trying out different local food and drink. Over the last three years I have tried things like python soup, raw pig blood salad, BBQ sparrow (burnt to a crisp), Komodo dragon stew, buffalo skin, and much more. Below are a few more I have tried, some of which I actually really LOVE.
Padek
Padek is fermented fish. It is used in a lot of Lao food. Sometimes it is used just to add a little flavor to soup and sometimes it is the predominate ingredient to a dish. Once you have tasted and smelled Padek you will always be able to identify it. Pungent doesn’t even begin to give it justice. As I said before, it is fermented fish. I think you can use your imagination!
Padek is enjoyed by all in Laos. It is made by taking whole fish from the river and mixing them with salt, garlic, rice husks and water. After mixing you place the ingredients in a jar. In the countryside this would likely be a clay jar with banana leaves tightly tied by vine around the tops. In the city it is now held in plastic and glass jars and bottles. You then leave the jar in the kitchen area for about 2 weeks. After 2 weeks it is then edible and sold at the markets. The Padek is good for about one year (as long as it is enclosed).
Did I mention I love this stuff? I know you are thinking that I am crazy, most people do when I tell them that it is my favorite thing in Laos. Lao are amazed when I tell them how much I love it. Mostly because they say they have never seen a foreigner eat it. If you want to impress tell someone, Koy mak Padek! Seap lai! (I like Padek! Very delicious!)
Koy mak Padek! Seap lai! (Yum...fermented fish)
Lao Lao with Nok Kwuak (Lao bird, no translation)
Lao Lao is homemade rice whiskey or rice wine- basically it is moonshine. Lao Lao is another lovely, pungent fermented delight. When you head into a Lao Lao Whiskey village, you know it. You can’t escape the smell. And if you think the smell is harsh, wait until you taste it! It is like gasoline. It will deliver quite a punch and it only takes a few shots to not be able to walk straight.
Usually you will see Lao Lao consumed by the locals out of water bottles. Sometimes you will come across interesting sights like the one below.
Moonshine- done Lao style
Lao Lao can sometimes be found at local restaurants or bought from the night market with an animal, reptile or, in this case, a bird inside. Lao believe that some of these provide extra vitality or increase your strength or fertility. I was told that this particular bird possessed the ability to give you energy and heal aliments. I think you have to believe this in order to consume it. Why else would you? And anyone will feel better after a couple shots.
And yes, I did drink this.
Bamboo Worms
I know that once you write the word worm, people automatically think slimy and gooey. Well, these worms happen to be crunchy and crispy (when fried). You can’t find them everywhere. In Laos you don’t see street vendors selling insects as snacks. They are found only in particular local spots and not all the time. That’s because someone has to go out and find them.
Bamboo worms are found in young bamboo stalks. You have to trek out into the forest to find them. You know that the bamboo is infested with theses worms if the stalk is brown at the top and not the normal green. You then cut the bamboo in half and collect the worms into a bag or basket. Then take them home to cook!
According to Lao they are a great source of protein and are the tastiest when coupled with an ice-cold Beerlao. It’s their equivalent to bar food, but much healthier! The worms are usually served fried with oil, lime leaves and chili.
I recently went to the Laos province of Xayaboury where I was able to sample the fried bamboo worms. They were right- they are most delicious with an ice cold Beerlao.
A nice crispy, crunchy, savoury snack with a cool finish
One of the most famous images of Ayutthaya is the Buddha head carved into a Bodhi tree at Maha That temple. Those photos were taken one month after the flood, and you can see now- there is no water! The temple was built in 1374 and it was a royal monastery and the spiritual center of the city. The flower that you can see in the foreground is “Malai” or garland in English, an offering made to worship the holy Buddha.
Actually, there are many other temples in Ayutthaya that are worth a visit. Such as, Wat Phra Srisanphet (2nd photo) and Wat Yai Chaimongkol (3rd photo).
I just spent the last five days in Bangkok assessing the situation for myself and figuring out the best options for our guests. Callie came with me and she’s a great partner as she is always up for an adventure (trekking through flooded streets) and gets everyone around us smiling despite the current situation!
Callie amusing our bus conductor
Here is my synopsis after my week here:
The Tourism Authority and the larger high-end hotels in town are sticking to the line that all is okay and travel can continue as usual. Clearly they want this to be true and while I think for the most part it is, it also marginalizes the stress, confusion and troubles being faced by a large percentage of the population.
On the other end of the spectrum the media and the many photographers and videographers in town for the ordeal clearly want the best story/shot and they don’t have to go far to get it. Lad Phrao intersection, one of the largest in the city, just North of the Weekend Market, is seriously flooded and as we passed through in our bus we saw about 10 photographers just hanging out at the intersection clearly getting “breaking news”.
I think the truth of the Bangkok situation is actually both of these realities. The city-center hotels are high and dry and the International Airport, though very close to the flooding, is remaining a priority at the moment and is being protected. So yes, most tours can continue as scheduled. For all those people on a tour, you will have nothing to worry about as your guide and driver will know where the flooding is and your tour is going to be adjusted to make sure that you don’t go anywhere that will mean wet feet.
The photos we don't see in the media - a very dry city center
For those independent travelers, it may not be a peachy as the tourism industry makes out…express boats are still not running on the Chao Praya River, for good reason as the current is incredibly strong and some of the boarding piers are flooded. The weekend market is also seriously flooded so trips out there are not recommended. If you are an independent traveler it’s best to check with your hotel on the current situation as it is constantly changing and it’s best to get the story that day.
As far as the center of town flooding, that’s a day-by-day process. While it would be great to believe the government and the travel industry that the worst is over I tend to go with aire on the side of caution. I think it’s better to wait and see on a day-to-day basis. Obviously for people planning a visit to the area this isn’t the easiest advice, but I think at this point there are still no definates and no one is guaranteeing that it won’t flood in the city center…in fact, all the government buildings along Silom Road are heavily sandbagged so despite them saying that it won’t flood, it seems they are still taking precautions and travelers should do the same.
The view from Mo Chit Skytrain Station, just past the Weekend Market
To sum it all up, my advice is to leave travel plans as they are, but stay up to date on the situation and be prepared to make alternate plans if necessary.
I also want to mention that the tourism industry saying everything is fine and blaming the media does not pay the respect due to the workers who are literally evacuating from areas to the East and West of the city or who are living in incredibly stressful conditions. I went with Jeab, our Bangkok Director, to her home just past the Weekend Market and we had to walk through 50 cm flooding to get to her apartment. She is lucky to live on the 3rd floor, but we collected her things and have moved her to a hotel in town for the next couple of weeks. For the travel industry to constantly call it media hype doesn’t respect the hardships that many Bangkokians are living with. To that same measure, the dramatization of the media doesn’t paint a realistic picture of the center of town and that the Grand Palace and other highlights are completely dry. As always the truth lies somewhere in the middle.
Callie and I on our way to Jeab's house
I want to commend my Bangkok team for rising to the occasion, continuing to arrange tours, work with our guests, be a support system for our guides and show their true strength during this disaster. Also, a thanks to our guests who have rolled with the punches, been very understanding about itinerary changes and who have been compassionate to our team here.
We will continue to keep you updated and hopefully we will be sending good news soon!… Read more »
