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What to Expect at the new Angkor Temples Ticketing Office

The New Angkor Temples Ticket Booth – Photo Credit: Narla Phay

By Courtney Ridgel

As we’ve blogged about before, the ticket prices at Angkor Wat have increased this year, to ensure that Cambodia has the funds to preserve and protect the Angkor Complex.

At the new Angkor Temples Ticket Booth- Photo Credit: Narla Phay

Along with the new prices, comes a new (and much larger) ticketing office to accommodate the ever-increasing numbers of visitors that Angkor Wat receives each year.  All foreigners are required to purchase a pass to visit the Angkor Temple Complex (or drive through on your way to something else).   Khmer people are free to come and go from the Complex as they please.

On a Journeys Within tour, your guide will take you to the Angkor Temples Ticket Booth before beginning your touring.

Dana and Chris testing out the new Ticketing Booth – Photo Credit: Narla Phay

You’ll pull up and park, and your guide will escort you to the ticket counter, where you’ll join the queue.  Be sure to read the information about the Angkor Complex Code of Conduct to make sure that you understand the regulations and expectations at these sacred monuments.

Dana, Chris and Journeys Within guide, Santhou, awaiting their turn at the ticketing counter – Photo Credit: Narla Phay

When it is your turn, you’ll need to pose for a photo.  Hats are ok, but you’ll need to remove your sunglasses.

Dana removing her sunglasses to have her photo taken – Photo Credit: Narla Phay

After you guide pays for your tickets, he’ll hand it over to you.  Be sure not to lose it as you tour as you’ll have to show it at various checkpoints!

Santhou handing Dana her temple pass – Photo Credit: Narla Phay

From here you’ll head out for an exciting day at the temples!

Dana, ready for a day of adventure with her temple pass! – Photo Credit: Narla Phay

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On Tour with Journeys Within: Siem Reap, Cambodia

Angkor Wat at sunrise.
Angkor Wat at sunrise.

Journeys Within is on our annual inspection tours this spring and some of the team traveled on from Laos to Cambodia. Read about our recent experiences in our last update On Tour with Journeys Within: Phonesavanh, Vientiane, and Pakse to learn about some of our guests’ favorite tours throughout Laos.

Follow our journey for updates and travel tips on some of our key locations and tours throughout this spring, and get inspired for your own next adventure.

For travelers who seek to acquaint themselves with highlights of Siem Reap, these Journeys Within tours are ideal:

Day 1: Angkor National Museum, Quad Bike Tour, and Phare Circus

Day 2: Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom Temple Tours

Day 3: Banteay Srei and Beng Mealea Temple Tours

Day 4: Village Tour and Artisan Angkor Silk Farm

These tours are customizable to the guest’s preferences and schedules, though Journeys Within can make recommendations on the best timing to schedule certain tours and activities to beat crowds and the sun on hot days.

Day 1: Angkor National Museum, Quad Bike Tour, and Phare Circus

The ideal introduction to people visiting Siem Reap is a visit to Angkor National Museum. Visitors have the option of a guided tour using head phone with recordings available in a number of different languages. Guests may also tour the museum without head phones, however, the headphones are recommended as the narration provides greater detail in addition to signage provided by the museum. Photos are not allowed inside of the museum, but click here for more information.

Angkor National Museum consists of five galleries, starting with details about Buddhist worship, Buddhist and Hindu iconography collections, details about the history of Khmer civilization, a multimedia presentation about Angkor Wat, and finally, extensive galleries dedicated to Siem Reap’s temples with informative details about the temples’ art and architecture.

For example, the type of material a Buddha statue is made from (stone, gold, bronze, marble, copper, or wood) indicates the time period and other historical factors that impacted how statues were produced. The postures of Buddha explain the unique individual purposes for each statue, which correspond to significant moments throughout the life of Buddha.

Further, the sculptures are more than artifacts, but passageways to Buddha himself and to receive his teachings. This can help visitors to understand why the image of Buddha is treated with utmost respect throughout Buddhism practicing countries. The museum also provides insight to how the practice of Buddhism has developed over hundreds of years as a method of worship that focuses on letting go of strife in order to gain peace of mind. Stylistic changes not only in the Buddha statue but also in temple architecture and ornamentation indicate the integration of different styles and religious ideologies as empires merged throughout the civilization’s history.

This experience provides visitors a foundation and context to Khmer history and culture. A visit to the Angkor National Museum will ideally be done prior to visiting temples in and around Siem Reap so visitors may have an established understanding of the culture before visiting the area’s main points of interest. Insider tip: Beautiful batik artwork by local artists and celebrated professionals is for sale inside the museum.

After a morning at Angkor National Museum, guests enjoy the opportunity to go on a quad bike tour around the rural villages and outskirts of Siem Reap. This experience gives visitors a look at rural Siem Reap and the lives of farmers. People and children wave and greet visitors as they pass by, which conveys the warm nature of these kind people. The quad bike tour stops along the way at a modern temple, where visitors may see monks and nuns going about their daily lives. The tour concludes with a view of the sunset over Siem Reap. Insider tip: This tour is a great opportunity to bring a Go-Pro for unique video footage of Siem Reap. The guide also makes several stops along the way to film guests with their smart phones.  

Kena (left), and Naida (right) on the quad bike tour in Siem Reap.
Kena (left), and Naida (right) on the quad bike tour in Siem Reap.

Another favorite of our guests as an introduction to Siem Reap is the Phare Circus. The circus is located near the heart of Siem Reap under the ‘big top’. It is a world-class act of acrobatics and by local signature artists as well as international traveling ensembles. The shows include light-hearted and comedic entertainment and poignant performance art interpretations of the profound impact of war on Khmer people. Performances are scheduled every night of the week.

Phare Circus.Image
Local acrobats of Sokrias (Eclipse) at Siem Reap’s Phare Circus.

Insider tip 1: Look up the performances you will see in advance and seek out a little background on the topics of each story for context. Visitors will get more from the shows if they have an understanding of the show’s influence.

Insider tip 2: There is a small gift shop located just outside of the tent that features unique handcrafts from local artisans that make for great souvenirs.

What to wear for this tour:

Comfortable, breathable clothes

Sneakers for the quad bike tour

Hat for the quad bike tour

Sunscreen and insect repellant for the quad bike tour

Bring a beverage inside the tent so you have something to drink throughout the show, as guests are not allowed back into the tent if they leave mid-show.

Day 2: Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom Temple Tours

Tours of Angkor Wat and  Angkor Thom are great adventures following a visit to Angkor National Museum, as the museum tour concludes with information and exhibits that relate to Siem Reap’s nearby temples.

Angkor Wat is an iconic symbol of Cambodia and tours are offered throughout the day, including options for sunrise and sunset. Journeys Within tour guides stay on top of the best times to arrive, changes in location of where to obtain tickets and entrance, and how to beat the crowds using little known access points. Insider tip: There are two pools located in front of Angkor Wat, and the majority of visitors inexplicably choose to view the temples from the pool on the right side. The pool on the left side is always far less crowded.  

Angkor Wat has become more strict this year about dress code and behavior while visiting the temple sites. It is important the visitors of temple sites respect temples by abiding by a recently established code of conduct, particularly dress code. View the Angkor Visitor Code of Conduct for more details. Visitors who do not abide by the code of conduct risk the potential of having their temple passes revoked.

Visitors have the opportunity to explore inside most temple areas, and exploring includes climbing some steep stair cases. Visitors should assess their ability to climb these stair cases. The temples located atop steep staircases are closed to pregnant women and small children for safety purposes.

Angkor Thom is a temple complex that houses Bayon, Ta Prohm, and Bantey Kdei. Bayon is known for its many massive three-dimensional faces carved into the temple walls. Ta Prohm is known for the trees that have overgrown around the temple over the centuries and make for unique photo opportunities. Ta Prohm is also sometimes referred to as the “Tomb Raider” temple, where the feature film was shot in 2001. Bantey Kdei is a fun temple to explore with many fallen temple stones.

Faces of Bayon, housed on the temple complex of Angkor Thom.
Faces of Bayon, housed on the temple complex of Angkor Thom.

Siem Reap’s temple tours can be coordinated as the guest desires, with additional temple tour options making the trek a half-day or all day experience.

What to wear for this tour:

Appropriate attire for visiting temple sites, with the legs and shoulders covered

Hat or umbrella, but ideally a hat as umbrellas take up more space and may obstruct the views of other visitors

Sunscreen and insect repellant

Walking shoes – no sandals. Some of the temple areas are uneven or require climbing and it’s best to have the feet covered

Day 3: Banteay Srei and Beng Mealea Temple Tours

Banteay Srei and Beng Mealea are located about an hour and a half outside of Siem Reap. Visitors stop along the way at an ancient sandstone quarry in Kulan to see where the stone was once sourced for all of Siem Reap and how stones were cut.

In fact, Beng Mealea is a Hindu temple built over 1000 years ago for quarry workers. The sandstone quarry was too far from Angkor Wat for workers to visit to worship, so Beng Mealea was built to provide quarry workers a place of worship within a close enough distance to the quarry site. Beng Mealea is a fun temple for trekking, with many different areas to climb and explore. Visitors at this temple should be careful to watch their footing on uneven areas, with many fallen stones to climb. There are also many low archways, so watch your head!

Fallen temple stones at Beng Mealea.
Fallen temple stones at Beng Mealea.

Banteay Srei was built in 967 CE, and is unique to the other temples in the area because it is carved from red sandstone, so the temple appears to have a pink hue. Local people also say that the temple must have been carved by women, due to the intricacy of the carvings. For these reasons, the temple it also sometimes referred to as the “Lady Temple” or “Pink Temple”. These characteristics make the temple special, and it is also one of the oldest temples in the area. Banteay Srei’s ornate design, color, and attention to detail make it a site well worth the trek outside of Siem reap.

Banteay Srei.Image
Banteay Srei, a temple carved from red sandstone, located outside of Siem Reap.

Insider tip: Visitors may also opt to see the Banteay Srei Butterfly Centre and the Cambodia Landmine Museum, both located on the way to Banteay Srei.

What to wear for this tour:

Appropriate attire for visiting temple sites, with the legs and shoulders covered

Hat or umbrella, but ideally a hat as umbrellas take up more space and may obstruct the views of other visitors

Sunscreen and insect repellant

Walking shoes – no sandals. Some of the temple areas are uneven or require climbing and it’s best to have the feet covered

Day 4: Village Tour and Artisan Angkor Silk Farm

On this tour day we visited Kok Tnout Village, which translates to ‘palm tree’. This is the home village of the guide for this tour, Mr. Sotay.

This tour gives visitors a glimpse into the rural village lives of people on the outskirts of Siem Reap. Kok Tnout  is comprised of 800 families, or roughly 1000 people. Mr. Sotay, like most Cambodian families of his generation, comes from a family of 11. Mr. Sotay says that while many Cambodians have large families in order to help farm, new families have begun to have less children, perhaps about 5 children per family.

My guide, Mr. Sotay, stands at the end of a bridge leading us into the village of Kok Tnout.
My guide, Mr. Sotay, stands at the end of a bridge leading us into the village of Kok Tnout.

Fifty percent of the villagers work jobs in Siem Reap, while the other half make a living as construction workers, farmers, and artisans of sorts. We passed Mr. Sotay’s mother in the village as she was on her way to sell rice noodles, which she makes herself every day and sells to people in town and passersby. We passed by a man who makes rice wine at his home and once the rice has been used in the process he feeds it to his pigs, which he raises and also sells in town.

In regard to infrastructure, the village of Kok Tnout still does not entirely have electricity, so some families use car batteries, kerosene lamps, and candles to have light in the night time. The village chief collects $15 dollars from every family to maintain the main village road.

This is a walking tour, and Mr. Sotay offers many details about Kok Tnout and its villagers’ way of life.

Once back in Siem reap, we visited Artisan d’Angkor, a silk farm and textile workshop that employs young women of Siem Reap, providing an opportunity for gainful employment and to preserve silk production and weaving as an artform.

Visitors get to see silk production from the very beginning of the process with a private tour from an Artisan d’Angkor guide. Exhibits show silkworms feeding on mulberry leaves, silkworms spinning their cocoons, the harvesting and cleaning process of the silk, the silk dyeing process, and various weaves of silk in textiles. Insider tip: Don’t forget to tip your guide!

Dyed and raw silk at Artisan D'Angkor.
Dyed and raw silk at Artisan D’Angkor.

The gift shop located on the farm is an ideal place to purchase beautiful souvenirs offering annual collections of home decor, clothing, accessories, stone, lacquerware, polychrome, wood, silver plating, painting, ceramics, and jewelry by local artisans.

What to wear for this tour:

Comfortable, breathable clothes

Sneakers or sandals

Hat for visiting the village

Sunscreen and insect repellant for visiting the village

See more photos of this spring’s journey throughout Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia on our Instagram account. Stay tuned to get an insider account of more of our tours throughout Southeast Asia!

Additionally, some of the Journeys Within team will be attending this year’s Thailand Travel Mart (TTM) this week! TTM works in cooperation with the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) and the Thai tourism industry, making TTM the largest business-to-business event in Thailand. Journeys Within proudly participates in this event to stay in-the-know and aid in the promotion of tourism in Thailand and its Greater Mekong Subregion (GMS) counterparts.  

Follow us on Instagram during our experiences at TTM and stay tuned for new travel information and industry updates!  

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On Tour with Journeys Within: Phonesavanh, Vientiane, and Pakse, Laos

The view from Vat Phou near Pakse in Laos.
The view from Vat Phou near Pakse in Laos.

Journeys Within is on our annual inspection tours this spring and traveled on from Northern to Southern Laos, with several stops along the way including Phonesavanh, Vientiane, and Pakse. Read about our recent experiences in our last update On Tour With Journeys Within: Luang Prabang, Laos to learn about some of our guests’ favorite tours in this unique destination.

Follow our journey for updates and travel tips on some of our key locations and tours throughout this spring, and get inspired for your own next adventure.

For travelers who seek to acquaint themselves with highlights of Northern and Southern Laos, these Journeys Within tours are ideal:

Day 1: Phonesavanh: Plain of Jars

Day 2: Vientiane: Full Day City Tour

Day 3: Pakse: Vat Phou and Khong Island

Day 4: Don Det and the 4,000 Islands

Day 5: Bolaven Plateau

These tours are customizable to the guest’s preferences and schedules, though Journeys Within can make recommendations on the best timing to schedule certain tours and activities to beat crowds and the sun on hot days.

Day 1: Phonesavanh: Plain of Jars

We journeyed on from Luang Prabang to Phonesavanh, a small provincial countryside city surrounded by green rolling hills, farmland, and pine forests. Our trek to this humble area was to see Phonesavanh’s main point of interest, the Plain of Jars.

Some of the ancient jars located at the Plain of Jars near Phonesavanh, Laos.
Some of the ancient jars located at the Plain of Jars near Phonesavanh, Laos.

The Plain of Jars archaeological landscape encompasses three different UNESCO World Heritage Sites clustered with hundreds of mysterious megalithic jars. Visitors at the Plain of Jars may walk through a museum located at the entrance at the beginning of the tour that provides information about the Vietnam War. Evidence of the war still exists in this area with craters from bombs seen throughout the landscape, and old Minus Advisory Group (MAG) markers that indicated where to walk to avoid active bombs before the site had been cleared. The area was one of the most heavily bombed locations during the Vietnam War, with bombs dropped every day between 1967 and 1968, but none of the bombs directly hit any of the Plain of Jars sites.

Bombs on display located at the main entrance of the Plain of Jars sites.
Bombs on display located at the main entrance of the Plain of Jars sites.

The jars date back to 2500 years ago during the Iron Age. Similar jars have been found in India and Indonesia with sites inexplicably skipping countries in between, or have otherwise just not yet been discovered.

Recent news about Plain of Jars indicates new evidence found and suggests potential purposes for the site, primarily for burial. However, the mysteries of the Plain of Jars have not been entirely solved. Our guide, Ounkham, says that while many local people of Phonesavanh have believed the site to relate to burial purposes, the mysteries remain: Why so many sites? What is the connection between these jars and those located in other countries? Why are they arranged in groups on each site? How were such heavy objects transported to the sites?

Evidence indicates the jars were placed on site as complete. Each of the three sites in Phonesavanh are located on hilltop areas, far from the original quarry site, with many megalithic jars scattered on the plain.

This tour provides a breezy walk and easy hikes along varying terrain. Visitors also stop at a large man-made cave along the way, whose purpose poses a mystery as well. The opening at the top of the cave indicates it could have been used as an ancient kiln for the jars, or potentially for cremation.

An ancient man-made cave located at the Plain of Jars.
An ancient man-made cave located at the Plain of Jars.

This tour is an ideal opportunity for lovers of history and anthropology, and for people who like to trek. The Plain of Jars offers a true sense of wonder about our early ancestors, their mysterious ways of life, and their profound capability.

We stopped for lunch in Muang Khoun and had a meal of authentic rice noodle soup. The soup is served with a garnish of extra greens, peppers, and spice sauce. Insider tip: Use the peppers and sauce sparingly! I added a small amount and found it to be very spicy, but delicious.  

Delicious noodle soup in Muang Khoun, Laos.
Delicious noodle soup in Muang Khoun, Laos.

Muang Khoun is home of the famous Wat Phia, a temple bombed during the Vietnam War and left in ruins, except for the temple’s large Buddha statue which remained miraculously intact. I discovered from our guide that Muang Khoun translates, rather fittingly, to ‘prosperous district’. Our last stop for the day was to explore the overgrown That Foun Stupa, or ‘Stupa of Ashes’, that was believed to house a relic of Buddha. The resilience of the Plain of Jars and the area’s surrounding ancient sites, contrasted by the everlasting effects from war, are profoundly apparent and evocative.

What to wear for this tour:

Walking shoes

Hat

Sunscreen and insect repellant

T-shirt or shoulder covering, and knees covered to enter Wat Phia. The temple is not active, but the same guidelines for respect remain.

Vientiane: Full Day City Tour

Prior to beginning our city tour, we were invited to visit Carol Cassidy’s Lao Textiles workshop, studio, and gallery. This is typically not a stop on the city tour, however, it can be added upon request of the guest. As the Lao New Year, Pi Mai, was still underway, the space was closed for business but Carol invited us for a private introduction and tour.

Textiles are an ancient handicraft of Laos and Southeast Asia in general. A weaver by profession, Carol and her husband, Dawit Seyoum, pioneered tourism in Laos as the first foreigners to establish a privately owned business in Vientiane in 1990. Tourism in Laos didn’t begin until the late 1990s.

Both former employees of the United Nations, Carol and Dawit fused their areas of expertise in rural development, economics, and craft development to build what is now a silk textile empire with retailers throughout North America, workshops and studio spaces in Vientiane, Laos and Preah Vihear, Cambodia, and exhibits all over the world. Pieces of Carol’s work can be found today at the Guggenheim, and her pieces are kept on permanent exhibition in museums internationally.

Carol Cassidy at her workshop in Vientiane, Laos.
Carol Cassidy at her workshop in Vientiane, Laos.

Carol received many prestigious accolades over the years and continues to teach courses throughout the US at universities such as Columbia and NYU. The ultimate result of Carol and Dawit’s efforts is a creative silk weaving workshop concept and a generation of employment for Lao women weavers. Their objective is to provide education about generations of artisans and to keep people employed to maintain traditional weaving as a craft and artform.

“We’re not interested in capitalizing from using machines. We want to follow the creativeness of the pieces, and to stay small and special.” Carol said. “Everything we do, we do with world-class excellence. We’re a small business, and our staff is like family. We’ve employed a generation of people, helped our staff build homes, and have former staff who are now retired and on pensions. We’ve sought ways in which we could combine tradition, employment, and preservation to form a model that we call ‘beyond fair trade’”.

Visitors may call in advance for workshops, and Carol and Dawit often entertain guests with cocktails and an academic discussion of the social aspects of their work. They want their guests’ experience to be more than visiting a shop. They offer a fully-functioning active studio where spectators gain an educational experience about the process from weaving to dyeing in a variety of methods. Insider tip: Visitors should ask to speak Carol and Dawit seek to learn more about their work.

We began our city tour first with a visit to Vientiane’s expansive Thong Kham Kam Market. The market is complete with what seems like miles of merchants selling fresh produce, freshly butchered meat, live fish and insects, and street food and souvenir merchants. Visitors in the morning get to see the market at its busiest time, buzzing with pick-up trucks and local people of Vientiane doing their shopping in order to get the freshest products.

Our tour continued on to Buddha Park. The park has hundreds of statues that depict Buddha in many different forms, as well as various Buddhist and Hindu iconography. Visitors may pass hours at Buddha Park to admire the expert craftsmanship and intricate detail of each sculpture. Our guide, Mr. Soun, is a Lao man who lived in California for a period of his life after his family fled Laos to escape war. His English is excellent and he took careful time explaining to us in great detail the meaning behind the park’s sculptures.

Some of hundreds of Buddha statues to be seen at Buddha Park in Vientiane, Laos.
Some of hundreds of Buddha statues to be seen at Buddha Park in Vientiane, Laos.

The statues appear to be centuries old, but the park was started in 1958 by priest-shaman, Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, who aspired to merge Buddhist and Hindu beliefs. He fled to Thailand in 1975 after the revolution. He built another sculpture park on the other side of the Mekong River at the Laos/Thailand border.

We moved on to the main temples and sites of Vientiane. Pha That Luang, also referred to as the ‘Golden Stupa’, is regarded as the most important monument in Laos and a national symbol. Originally a Hindu temple in the third century, the temple was destroyed and rebuilt many times, eventually transitioning to the Buddhist temple it is today. The temple’s three levels represent the Buddhist doctrine wherein Buddhists follow the path to Nirvana. Phat That Luang has been believed to house a holy relic, the breastbone of Buddha.

The Golden Stupa (Pha That Luang) in Vientiane, Laos.
The Golden Stupa (Pha That Luang) in Vientiane, Laos.

Haw Pha Kaeo was built in 1565 to house the Emerald Buddha, which was originally from Chiang Mai but exchanged hands many times over the centuries due to conflict. The Emerald Buddha is currently kept in a temple on the grounds of the Royal Palace in Bangkok, and can be seen on the Journeys Within Bangkok City Tour. Haw Pha Kaeo is now used as a museum where visitors may see Lao religious art and Buddha statues from as early as the sixth century.

Wat Si Saket was built in 1818 in the Siamese style, as opposed to the Laos style, which makes this particular temple unique to the area. It is thought to be the oldest temple still standing in Vientiane. While the temple had been sacked by Siam armies 1827 they did not destroy it, likely because it was built in Siamese style. Wat Si Saket is currently used as a museum and houses a collection of over 2000 Buddha images.

Wat Si Saket in Vientiane, Laos, houses over 2000 Buddha images.
Wat Si Saket in Vientiane, Laos, houses over 2000 Buddha images.

Wat Si Muang is another unusual temple, as it is divided into two rooms. The rear room houses a large altar and many statues and images of Buddha. The front room is a place where visitors may make offerings to Buddha and receive blessings from monks.

Next we were taken to Patuxai, also known as the ‘Victory Gate’. Patuaxi is a war monument dedicated to the Lao people who fought in the struggle for independence from France. Ironically, the monument is also sometimes referred to as ‘Arc de Triomphe of Vientiane’ as it resembles the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, though it is Laotian in design. The first floor of the monument consists of management offices of the monument and tourist shops. The second floor houses a museum that contains statues and images of the iconic Lao people. The top floor is the best vantage point for city views and photos, with a telescope and viewing platform.

An interior view of Vientiane's Victory Gate.
An interior view of Vientiane’s Victory Gate.

Insider tip: If Mr.Soun is your guide, be sure to ask him about the documentary about bombings during the Vietnam War. He has the document saved to a USB you can borrow. The documentary provides an informative context to the Vietnam War from Laotian perspective and experiences.   

What to wear for this tour:

Sandals or walking shoes

Breathable clothing with the shoulders and knees covered for entering temples

Insect repellant and plenty of sunscreen

Hat

Pakse: Vat Phou and Khong Island

Our first tour in Pakse began with no delay and we ventured to the countryside for the sacred mountain of Lingaparvata and Vat Phou. This point of interest is a 6th century pre-Angkorian Khmer Hindu temple and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site represents the easternmost border of the Khmer empire. Visiting this special site includes a moderate hike, panoramic views of the surrounding plains, and a chance to visit a hidden sacred spring. Vat Phou offers many picturesque opportunities, with spanning views of the countryside, and countless ornate arches and temple carvings. A museum at the foot of Lingaparvata offers information about the site and and many ancient relics to see.

One of several ancient temple structures located on the site of Vat Phou.
One of several ancient temple structures located on the site of Vat Phou.

Afterward we were transferred to Khong Island, part of the river archipelago known as ‘Si Phan Don’, or the ‘4,000 Islands’. Our accommodation was La Folie Lodge, a truly secluded escape, with few hotels and a small village visitors may explore by bicycle. Visitors may also stroll the riverbank of the Mekong, seeing more animals and boats passing by than people. The island is an ideal retreat after several days in a row of travel and exploring bustling cities. Guests ‘disconnect’ at La Folie Lodge, with Wi-Fi access only in the hotel lobby and restaurant, and no television sets in the guest rooms. The guest rooms are rustic with wood-paneled interiors and accented with French colonial artwork. La Folie Lodge has the feel of a relaxing private beachfront getaway. Insider tip: Request a room with a view of the Mekong River. Visitors can relax and enjoy the view on their own private patio or from the comfort of their bed. A private villa is also available for lodging and is an ideal accommodation for groups and families.

The view of the Mekong River from a La Folie Lodge guest room on Khong Island, Laos.
The view of the Mekong River from a La Folie Lodge guest room on Khong Island, Laos.

What to wear for this tour:

No sandals – walking shoes only. The steps of Vat Phou are steep and there are rocky areas at the top for exploring.

Breathable clothing – no skirts or dresses. Visitors may slip on long dresses while climbing the steps, and skirts may catch the breeze.

Lots of sunscreen and insect repellant – the ground level of Vat Phou and the staircase have few shaded areas, but there is plenty of shade to be found at the top.

Hat or umbrella for sun protection, but ideally a hat as there is not handrail.

Day 4: Don Det and the 4,000 Islands

This day of the tour we set out for Ban Nakasang and took a long tail boat through a section of the 4,000 Islands. This is an exciting and immersive way to explore the archipelago while passing by water buffalo and local fishermen, with many different islands to be seen on either side of the boat.

The view from our long tail boat while cruising through Don Det (the 4,000 Islands).
The view from our long tail boat while cruising through Don Det (the 4,000 Islands).

We spent the day trekking to different waterfall sites, including Khone Phapheng Waterfall, known as the ‘Niagara of the East’. We took another long tail boat in the afternoon to explore around Som Pha Mit (Li Phi) Waterfall, and spotted endangered Irrawaddy Dolphins from a distance! These dolphins are rare river dolphins of Southeast Asia, and they look like a combination of the common Cetacea or sea dolphin and a manity, lacking the elongated noses typical of sea dolphins. Regardless, they are still cute!   

One of the many waterfalls to be seen throughout Don Det, Laos.
One of the many waterfalls to be seen throughout Don Det, Laos.

Guests can end the day with a quick stop on the long tail boat at a Cambodian riverbank! This part of the archipelago borders Cambodia, where visitors can stop for a drink and a little souvenir shopping before heading to their hotel for the evening.

What to wear for this tour:

Sandals or walking shoes

Breathable clothing

Hat

Plenty of sunscreen and insect repellant

Day 5: Bolaven Plateau

The fertile land of the Bolaven Plateau makes it a paradise for tea and coffee farming. The tour is a treat for coffee and tea lovers, with opportunities to taste and purchase fresh products. The higher altitude of the plateau is about ten degrees cooler than in the city of Pakse, which also makes for pleasant touring.

The first stop for the day was at Tad Fane Waterfall, the tallest waterfall in Laos, then Tad Yuang. The waterfalls are gorgeous and surrounded by exotic greenery. Guests may climb down a series of steps to get a closer look at the Tad Yuang or to sit and relax. Many people also visit the waterfall to picnic, camp, or swim.

Tad Yuang, a waterfall located in the rich land of the Bolaven Plateau.
Tad Yuang, a waterfall located in the rich land of the Bolaven Plateau.

There is also a small market at the entrance where souvenirs and traditional Lao skirts are sold. In hindsight, I regret not having bought a Lao skirt. They are made of silk, vibrant in color and pattern, and one of the most distinct Laotian handicrafts. Young girls can be seen wearing them paired with a t-shirt, and ladies typically wear them with crisp white blouses.

While visiting the plantations, our guide explained to us various growing processes and harvesting methods for not only the coffee, but also spices and fruit commonly grown in the area. We got the opportunity to crush fresh black pepper, cinnamon, and other fragrant spices in our hands and smell their fresh scent. We took the opportunity to taste coffee and green tea, which is fresh beyond comprehension and so unlike the store bought products we are accustomed to drinking. I hadn’t intended on buying anything, but bought cinnamon and green tea because the scent of the tea is incredible even through the packaging. This is a great opportunity to purchase unique, quality souvenirs. I look forward to sharing my tea with my friends back home.

Our tour guide explains details about farming in the Bolaven Plateau.
Our tour guide explains details about farming in the Bolaven Plateau.

We continued on to Sinouk Coffee and Tea, a larger plantation where visitors may see the crops in different stages of growth and tour the plantation grounds while talking in the lush landscape and rich red earth. The plantation provides many beautiful photo opportunities and a sense of whimsy with beautiful mature trees, lotus ponds, and exotic plants. There is also a restaurant located on the plantation offering fresh Lao meals, a variety of coffee drinks, and fresh fruit smoothies as an option for lunch. Coffee and tea are also available for purchase at this location.

Beautiful Sinouk Coffee plantation in the Bolaven Plateau.
Beautiful Sinouk Coffee plantation in the Bolaven Plateau.

Village tours throughout the day include several stops where visitors may observe village life in Laos, with villagers preparing food or crafting goods for sale at local markets. Some of the villages accept guests for homestays, so there may be an opportunity to meet some of these people and discuss their experiences. As mentioned in previous blogs, photography of the villagers and their children is a concept that should be treated with care. It is best to ask people first before taking their photographs, and photographs of children is particularly sensitive. You may also ask your guide to request permission from the villagers as well.

Our day ended with a visit to Pa Suam Waterfall and its nearby village, or, ‘living museum’ or ‘ethnic museum’. This is a preserved village that contains families of the Katu, Alak, and other tribes.Traditional home construction, dress, crafts, customs, and daily life may be witnessed to give visitors a look into traditional Laotian tribal life.

What to wear for this tour:

Walking shoes or sandals – there are some stops with short hikes and steep stair cases if you choose to explore them

Breathable clothing

Hat

Plenty of sunscreen and insect repellant

Next up in this series of blogs, we journey from Laos to Cambodia and see highlights of Siem Reap. See more photos of this journey on our Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/journeys_within/. Stay tuned to get an insider account of more of our tours!

 … Read more »

On Tour with Journeys Within: Luang Prabang, Laos

Journeys Within staff on tour inspection in Luang Prabang, Laos.
Journeys Within staff on tour inspection in Luang Prabang, Laos.

Journeys Within is on our annual inspection tours this spring and traveled on from Thailand to Laos. Read about our recent experiences in our last update On Tour With Journeys Within: Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Chiang Rai, Thailand to learn about some of our guests’ favorite tours in Thailand.

Follow our journey for updates and travel tips on some of our key locations and tours throughout this spring, and get inspired for your own next adventure.

For travelers who seek to acquaint themselves with highlights of Northern Laos, these Journeys Within tours are ideal:

Days 1-2: Pakbeng to Luang Prabang: Luang Say Cruise and Lodge

Day 3: Luang Prabang Temples and Villages on the Mekong

Day 4: Luang Prabang: Morning Alms, City Tour, and Kuang Si Waterfall

These tours are customizable to the guest’s preferences and schedules, though Journeys Within can make recommendations on the best timing to schedule certain tours and activities to beat crowds and the sun on hot days.

Day 1-2: Pakbeng to Luang Prabang: Luang Say Cruise and Lodge

My final morning in Thailand I departed early from Chiang Rai by van and drove through the countryside to Pakbeng. The scenic drive includes spanning views of green rice fields and tropical trees, shrouded in a layer of morning mist, with occasional thatched-roofed huts and small temples.

This drive provides visitors a peek into the lives of farmers and daily life for people who live in nearby villages. Monks dressed in orange walk through villages for morning alms, and occasional colorfully woven flags can be seen along village roads that indicate to passersby there is a celebration in town, and all are welcome.

Upon arrival in Pakbeng, I was escorted by my guide to immigration at the border of Thailand and Laos. Visitors obtain their visas, and are greeted by Luang Say staff. The staff provides guests name tags that identify they are traveling with Luang Say, and then wait to be transported to the Luang Say Cruise, first by a short van ride then a short bus ride.

One of the riverboats used for the Luang Say Cruise down the Mekong River in Laos.
One of the riverboats used for the Luang Say Cruise on the Mekong River in Laos.

Luang Say Cruise boats are quaint 34-meter wooden riverboats. Guests relax in rattan chairs or lounges at either end of the boat, and get acquainted with their fellow travelers as they cruise down the Mekong River. The riverboat provides a shaded, breezy means of transportation to Luang Prabang as guests watch villagers and water buffalo pass by along the way. The staff of the Luang Say Cruise is gracious, often refilling water glasses and treats such as fresh fruit, banana chips, and tamarind. A home cooked traditional Laotian lunch is provided, including Lao sausage (a Laotian specialty) and cooked meat, fish wrapped in banana leaves, vegetables, and rice.

A typical lunch aboard the Luang Say Cruise.
A typical lunch aboard the Luang Say Cruise.

A scheduled stop on the first day of the cruise includes a small village along the river known as Khmu. The tribe originated in India and the people relocated to their current location in 1995. The tribe now consists of 85 families (about 500 people). They farm crops including rice, corn, and hops. Modern advances in the village include running water, electricity, roads, support from Red Cross, and a school that is now five years old. Visitors walk through the village, guided by Luang Say staff, and learn about the way of life for these humble people.

A traditional home in the Khmu Village.
A traditional home in the Khmu Village.

Remember to ask your guide questions, being inquisitive is what enhances these unique tour experiences. Also, it is tempting to take photos of the tribal people and their children, but still polite to ask first. You can also ask your guide to ask people and the parents of children for permission prior to taking photos. These people are gracious to welcome visitors and it is a display of respect to request their images before taking such liberties.

Guests are welcomed with cool drinks upon arrival at Luang Say Lodge. Upon check in to individual private pavilions, guests find their accommodations complete with wood shutters that open to views of the Mekong and mosquito nets over the bed. Each guest room is beautifully appointed in teak wood finishes and made up in crisp white linens, providing a rustic and tidy feel. Insider tip: Luang Say Lodge offers complimentary next-day laundry service to its guests. Not many people know about this, so take advantage!

Guest Pavilion at Luang Say Lodge.
Guest Pavilion at Luang Say Lodge.

The evening at Luang Say Lodge is a lovely time to stroll around the lodge’s long deck and take photos of the property’s distinct architecture. Multiple sitting areas and an organic vegetable garden are found along the way. The lodge hosts an outdoor traditional Laotian song and dance performance. Some of the guests are even invited to join in the dancing, including me!

Local children singing during the welcome performance at Luang Say Lodge.
Local children singing during the welcome performance at Luang Say Lodge.

Guests who stay at Luang Say Lodge enjoy some genuine time in a locale that is truly secluded. This is an ideal opportunity to ‘switch off’, as limited internet is available only in the main lobby, not the guest rooms. The guest rooms maintain their rustic feel with the absence of television sets. It is truly an experience to spend an evening without attention focused on electronics and, quite literally, leaves guests to their own devices for amusement. Pretend like it’s the 90s again… bring a game, deck of cards, or a good book – a tablet with movies already downloaded, if you must.

A buffet is served the next morning and guests depart for the second and final leg of the journey down the Mekong. One scheduled stop includes Ban Baw Village. While there are no handicrafts available for sale at Khmu Village the first day, there are wonderful goods to purchase at Ban Baw. I did not bring any money with me for our walk through Ban Baw-do not make this mistake. Visitors see how traditional rice alcohol is made and it is also available for purchase for roughly fifty cents for one six-ounce bottle. This alcohol is also sometimes referred to as “LaoLao”. It is stronger than saki, and it is delicious. Also, many textiles are available for sale, such as scarves, blankets, and stuffed animals. Insider tip: Ask your guide to help you distinguish which textiles are factory-made and which textiles are locally-made. The factory-made textiles are also attractive, but it is best to support locally-made textiles from the village. Children sell colorful silk bracelets along the river as the Luang Say Cruise arrives on the riverbank. The bracelets cost less than one US dollar and make for great souvenirs.  

Another stop along the river includes the Pak Ou Caves ‘Tham Ting’ and ‘Tham Phoum’, which house thousands of Buddha statues. Make an offering of flowers and incense to one of the Buddhas, along with a good intention, and explore these small caves. Please remember to dress and behave respectfully while visiting the caves. While the caves are not religious temples, the image of Buddha is sacred.

We continued down the river and I was met by my guide in Luang Prabang, then driven to the main part of town for an orientation tour and dropped off at my hotel, Luang Say Residence, to refresh for dinner.

Luang Say Residence in Luang Prabang, Laos.
Luang Say Residence in Luang Prabang, Laos.

One tour option for guests that is built as a package includes the Luang Say Cruise, Luang Say Lodge, and Luang Say Residence. Luang Say Residence is a gorgeous French Colonial style accommodation with a grand bar and restaurant located in the main residence and five guest pavilions situated on the large, lushly landscaped property. To stay at Luang Say Residence feels as if to be transported back in time, with white lattice accents and antique style furnishings. Ask one of our tour consultants about Luang Say packages. Different packages are available up and down river and are customizable.

What to wear for this tour:

Breathable clothing

Hats, sunscreen, and insect repellant while stopping along the river

Sandals or walking shoes

Day 3: Luang Prabang: Temples and Villages on the Mekong

What better way to further explore the wonders of the Mekong than by riverboat? We make an early start on this tour, crossing the river from Luang Prabang to Xieng Mien on a shaded longtail boat. This means of transportation is efficient in taking guests from place to place.

A typical longtail boat seen on the Mekong.
A typical longtail boat seen on the Mekong.

Guests on this tour should be prepared to climb flights of stairs and some small hillsides. However, this tour offers sanctuary for the soul with nature walks and visits to several historic wats (temples). Very few tourists can be found in this area at any given time, so it’s a good opportunity to see special parts of Laos in peace and quiet. Monks reside in parts of this area and can be seen dressed in their orange orange robes and going about their day.  

Upon return to the longtail boat we continued down river visited a local fisherman for a Lao-style fishing lesson, using only nets. Some guests may join the fisherman in his boat for an up close look.

A fresh cooked traditional lunch is served aboard the longtail boat-bring your appetite! Lunch is a generous spread of chicken, curry, soup, and other treats made by the boat captain’s wife.

Another hidden treasure we visited on this day is Ban Jan, a pottery village that produces all sorts of wonderful clay goods. Again, do not forget to bring some money with you while visiting this village. Ban Jan offers unique hand made souvenirs, and it can’t get any more authentic than to purchase goods straight from the artisans. Visitors may also see artisans at work, expertly creating a new pot or figurine from start to finish.

A man and his wife work as a team to create a new clay pot.
A man and his wife work as a team to create a new clay pot.

The tour ends with a Lao baci ceremony hosted by the village chief and elders of the community. Buddhists believe that the body is comprised of 34 souls, and the baci ceremony calls all souls back to the body that may have gone missing. The village chief chants and asks the spirits to bare witness as the visitors take part in the ritual. The ritual consists of exchanging food and drink, and villagers tie white strings around each wrist of the guest while offering good intentions of health and prosperity. The strings would traditionally remain on the wrists of the wearer until they fall off naturally, but in modern times, people wait three days and then untie (not cut) the strings, so as to not break the spirit.

The villagers are exceedingly warm and kind. The baci ceremony is a special experience to share with loved ones to commemorate a special occasion, or simply, for the experience itself.

What to wear for this tour:

Breathable clothing, with the knees and shoulders covered for entering temple sites

Walking shoes, no sandals

Sunscreen and insect repellant

Day 4: Luang Prabang: Morning Alms, City Tour, and Kuang Si Waterfall

The earliest start yet in this series of tours was this day at sunrise, and with good reason; to meet the local monks as they walk about town for mornings alms. This ancient Buddhist ceremony is the way in which monks break their fast every day.

My guide took me and my colleague and travel companion, Naida, to a spot set up for us to properly take part in the ceremony. We tied traditional scarves around our shoulders and sat on a blanket with pots filled with fresh-cooked rice. We scooped portions of rice from our rice pots into the food pots of the monks as they passed by and opened their lids. As simple as this process sounds, it is a wonderful experience to make a meaningful interaction, one that I’ll never forget. Our guide was sure to take some photos for us.

Naida (left) and Kena (right) from the Journeys Within Team giving morning alms to the monks of Luang Prabang.
Naida (left) and Kena (right) from the Journeys Within Team giving morning alms to the monks of Luang Prabang.

An added bonus to the day was an annual elephant parade through town for the Lao New Year, Pi Mai. We got to see several elephants walk through a small section of town, and spectators had the opportunity to feed them sugar cane.

We returned to our hotel for breakfast, then moved on to visit the National Museum. The museum is a former palace with its rooms staged and preserved as they were once lived in by royalty. This is an interesting opportunity to see the fine craftsmanship of vintage furniture, garments, jewelry, paintings, and gifts to the royal family from other countries over the years up close. Visitors may also visit the royal automobile garage which showcases some of the cars gifted over the years, including an Edsel from the US-pause for reaction.

We continued on to see the beautifully ornamented temples of Wat Sen, Wat Xieng Thong, Wat Visun, and Wat Aham. Our guide told us the stories behind the temples’ decoration, and we came face to face with wood-carved Buddha statues over a thousand years old.

One of many temple interiors in Luang Prabang, Laos.
One of many temple interiors in Luang Prabang, Laos.

Our next destination, Ock Pop Tok Living Craft Centre, is a veritable textile institute that includes a hotel, restaurant, workshop, instruction space for weaving classes, and an exhibition for antique textiles. We had the pleasure of meeting founders Joanna Smith and Veomanee (Veo) Douangdala, who shared with us the story of Ock Pop Tok’s evolution.

Joanna (left) and Veo (right), giving Journeys Within an exclusive look at their textile catalogue room.
Joanna (left) and Veo (right), giving Journeys Within an exclusive look at their textile catalogue room at Ock Pop Tok.

The concept began as a small public showspace that featured unique collaborative pieces created with Veo’s knowledge of traditional Laotian weaving and Joanna’s formal education in fine arts. The result; vibrant textiles that represent the intersection of historic culture through the modern interpretation of two creative minds. The first tour group to visit the show space bought nearly all of their textiles.

Joanna and Veo designed their first official collection and eventually relocated the show space to their current location in Luang Prabang they established ten years ago. The evolution of Ock Pop Tok’s expansion is the result of their collective response to fulfilling the needs they identified in their market and in the preservation of their craft. They began to offer weaving classes by popular request. The weavers on staff also prepared lunch for the students in the weaving class. The response to the food was so positive, they opened their restaurant, Silk Road Cafe. They found that many guests were seeking to take different classes over the course of several days and wished to stay on the property overnight, so they opened a villa with guest rooms.

Ock Pop Tok now houses a hotel, restaurant, workshop, instruction space, and textile exhibition.
Ock Pop Tok now houses a hotel, restaurant, workshop, instruction space, and textile exhibition.

The efforts of Ock Pop Tok over the years resulted in a textile empire and fair trade business that employs and empowers local women through a financial model that supports growth, diversity, and preservation of authentic textile weaving.

Ask your Journeys Within tour consultant about options to include a tour of Ock Pop Tok and weaving classes into your itinerary while visiting Luang Prabang.

After our tour and lunch at Ock Pop Tok, we ventured on to Kuang Si Waterfall, which is over an hour trek by car. We were transported by air-conditioned van, occasionally splashed with water by the local people for the Lao New Year with the traditional water celebrations. Insider tip: If you visit Laos during their New Year, do not drive through town with your windows down-you could get splashed! Also, place your cell phones and other electronic devices in plastic bags to protect them while walking through town.

Local people enjoying traditional water celebrations for Pi Mai.
Local people enjoying traditional water celebrations for Pi Mai.

An added bonus to this tour, we stopped at the Laos location for Free the Bears, Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre, a sanctuary for Asiatic Black Bears (also known as ‘Moon Bears’). Free the Bears is an organization that rescues and rehabilitates bears that have been abused. The Asiatic Bear population is declining, due primarily to illegal poaching and deforestation. Visitors can see rehabilitated bears from a distance as they play, climb, and sun themselves in their enclosure.

Kuang Si Waterfall is not far from the rescue centre, where visitors enjoy a tree-shaded oasis in one of the many crystal blue pools throughout the area. Visitors can swim, hike, picnic, and lounge at this scenic retreat. The hike in particular offers an exciting excursion for the day, with a half hour trek to the top of the highest waterfall. There are some steep areas on the hike, so mind your steps. Once at the top, visitors may explore the pools in a small boat with a guide. The top of the waterfall is also an opportune vantage point for photos, just remember to be safe and mind the signs.

What to wear for this tour:

Sandals or walking shoes for the city tour, walking shoes for the Kuang Si Waterfall

Hat

Appropriate clothing for giving alms to monks and for visiting temple sites

Sunscreen and insect repellant for the Kuang Si Waterfall
Next up in this series of blogs, we further explore Laos including Phonesavanh, Vientiane, and Paske. See more photos of this journey on our Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/journeys_within/. Stay tuned to get an insider account of more of our tours!Read more »

On Tour with Journeys Within: Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Chiang Rai, Thailand

Some of the Journeys Within Team (from left to right) Sone, Nicole, Ounkham, Onkeo, and Naida
Some of the Journeys Within Team (from left to right) Sone, Nicole, Ounkham, Onkeo, and Naida

Over the next several weeks, some of the Journeys Within team is on our annual inspection tours throughout some of our Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia tour locations. This is an exciting time of the year for us to visit the countries we love and return home from our journeys revived with inspiration for travel, and with new stories to tell our followers.

I am Marketing and Booking Coordinator, Kena Cataneso, for our Truckee, California location. I will be blogging on behalf of Journeys Within this spring as I make my way through Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Luang Prabang, Phonesavanh, Vientiane, Pakse, and Siem Reap.

Kena Cataneso at the Grand Palace in Bangkok
Kena Cataneso at the Grand Palace in Bangkok

Follow my journey for updates and travel tips on some of our key locations and tours throughout the months of April and May, and get inspired for your own next adventure.

The first three days – An Introduction to Thailand: Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Chiang Rai

For travelers who seek to acquaint themselves with highlights of Thailand, these Journeys Within tours are ideal:

Day 1: Bangkok: Public Transport City Tour with Klongs 

Day 2: Chiang Mai: Elephant Daycare at Patara Elephant Farm

Day 3: In and Around Chiang Rai

These tours are customizable to the guest’s preferences and schedules, though Journeys Within can make recommendations on the best timing to schedule certain tours and activities to beat crowds and the sun on hot days.

A view from one of Bangkok's many canals.
A view from one of Bangkok’s many canals.

Bangkok: Public Transport City Tour with Klongs

Guests who arrive in Bangkok via international flight late in the evening prior to this tour have the option to be picked up at the airport by van with a Journeys Within guide. This is a favorable option as guests will typically experience fatigue, jet lag, and if you’re at all like me, disorientation and irritability after a day of flying with potential connections and delays.

I arrived in Bangkok an hour late, around midnight, due to a delay with my connecting flight in Korea. The process to go through immigration and to pick up my baggage took about one more hour, putting me at nearly 1 am. At that point, I would not want to navigate my own way to my hotel. Bangkok is large and taxis are expensive, and public transportation does not run 24 hours a day.

Guests can choose to arrange their own transportation or use a taxi from the airport to their hotel, but it’s worth speaking with a Journeys Within Tour Consultant to discuss their priorities, options, and budget. Our Journeys Within Tour Consultants are transparent with our guests about practicality with logistics.

I was thrilled to be met outside the baggage claim by my guide. He took my bags, and walked me to my air conditioned van where I was provided ice cold water and a fresh, cold towel.

Kena, from the US Journeys Within office and Guide Ron, from the Bangkok office.
Kena, from the US Journeys Within office and Guide Ron, from the Bangkok office.

This time in Bangkok I inspected VIE Hotel, which is located a half hour from the airport. I was pleased to stay with VIE Hotel on my introduction night to Thailand. VIE is a large, modern hotel situated in the heart of Bangkok.

I haven’t traveled since last year, and frankly, it was a huge comfort to stay on my introduction night in an immaculate hotel with all the luxuries I would expect from a high-end hotel in the US. An insider tip to VIE – they automatically upgrade all guests to nicer rooms if they are available. I was upgraded to a suite.

The rooms are appointed with dark wood and the high ceilings provide a feeling of grandeur. Once I arrived at my room I promptly charged my electronics, which require no adapters for the power outlets, as they are compatible with standard US power cords. The restroom was equipped with a rain shower and fresh white bath robes.

I awoke the next morning reborn and ready to tour the city, especially after the complimentary international breakfast buffet, which is a veritable feast of international options.

Why public transport for the tour? The answer is simple; public transport in Bangkok is incredibly accessible, efficient, and inexpensive. The option of private transport by van may offer some guests a feeling of privacy and independence, however, traffic in Bangkok is heavy and guests using private transport will find themselves often sitting in traffic and with considerably less available time on their itinerary to tour.

I was met in the lobby by my guide and we were only a few minutes walk to the Skytrain, which is immaculately clean and air-conditioned, and then we took a short boat ride to The Grand Palace.

An exhibit of the Royal Family's history at The Grand Palace in Bangkok.
An exhibit of the Royal Family’s history at The Grand Palace in Bangkok.

The Palace is, by every meaning of the word, grand, with what seem like miles of murals that depict an epic Indian poem, multiple Temples highly ornamented with gold leaf and glass mosaic, a miniature construction of Angkor Wat, many Buddha statues, a weapon museum, and gift shop. Another insider tip – visitors may stand in line at the box office to buy tickets for entry, or there men and women sitting at the gates near the entrance who also sell tickets.

I asked my guide if they have ever been known to sell fake tickets, but he said no. I enjoy having  guides whenever I visit historical landmarks, as I prefer to have a historical and religious context of the places I visit. My guide gave me information about every building and temple we saw at The Grand palace, and information about the Royal Family and how the buildings were influenced over the years.

An exerpt from the extensive mural at Bangkok's Grand Palace.
An exerpt from the extensive mural at Bangkok’s Grand Palace.

My guide took me to a massage parlor once we finished our tour of the The Grand Palace, which was heavenly after my long flight the day prior. The rest of the day was spent strolling the nearby flower and produce markets, we had a delicious lunch at a local restaurant, and concluded the day with the klong tour. Klongs are the canals that run throughout Bangkok. My guide told me that Bangkok is sometimes referred to as the “Venice of Thailand”.

What to Wear for this Tour: 

Sunscreen

Insect repellant

Hat or umbrella (seriously, the sun is very hot)

Loose fitting, breathable clothing, i.e. cottons, linens, long skirts and pants, and shirts that cover the shoulders

Sandals or walking shoes

Chiang Mai: Elephant Daycare at Patara Elephant Farm 

My departure time from my hotel was at 6:30am. My guide met me in the lobby of VIE Hotel and rode with me in the van back to the airport so I could make my transfer from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. My bag was overweight and I opted to pay the charge rather than fuss with having to carry something more. Insider tip: If traveling to Thailand via Bangkok Airways, go to www.bangkokair.com, register for Premier or Priority Flyer Bonus, and get 10-20 additional kilograms added to your standard luggage weight limit. Other airlines will have similar options.

The flight from Bangkok to Chiang Mai is one hour and a half, then a couple hour’s car ride. Once again, I was met by my Chiang Mai guide and given ice cold water and cold towels.

Chiang Mai is quaint, the original city measuring only roughly one square mile. My hotel, the Rachamankha, is located within the boundaries of the original city. This place is so incredibly unique, I could do an entire blog on the hotel alone. The Rachamankha, designed by a renowned architect father and interior designer son, has received numerous accolades and press for its design. The accommodation is the essence of Zen with ornate roof lines, the rooms centered around courtyards with beautifully manicured landscaping, rock walkways, and the entire property is decorated in the family’s own personal art collection. To stay here feels as if to be a privileged guest at an acquaintance’s extraordinary property. In the evening, spiral sticks of incense burn and subtly fill the space with fragrance.

Rachamankha in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Rachamankha in Chiang Mai, Thailand

I met with the General Manager, Paul Walker, who has been managing the property for over a decade and is an utter wealth of information about the hotel and Chiang Mai. We spoke over tea, which was served out of gorgeous blue and white china. Every detail of Rachamankha is the well thought out construct of taste and imagination. Walker explained to me that the design at Rachamankha comes first over pragmatism. This is not a property that was designed under the constraints of compliance for accessibility or safety regulation. In fact, here’s another insider tip: this hotel welcomes guests age 12 and older. This is for a few purposes, one being the potential for slips and falls of smaller children; the art collection that decorates the guest rooms and common areas is priceless and must receive the necessary respect of all guests; most guest rooms (with an exception of the suites) face one another in a courtyard, so noise from small children could disturb the zenful state that this property has worked so hard to achieve.

Walker showed me the property in its entirety, which also includes a pool, a library with a collection of the owner’s books, a restaurant, and a studio upstairs from the restaurant which may be used for small meetings. Walker said small yoga groups have visited and held classes in the studio on occasion. Insider tip: there is complimentary cogniac for guests in the library. 

The library at Rachamankha.
The library at Rachamankha.

The hotel has been a Chiang Mai favorite of celebrities, such as Angelina Jolie, according to Walker. He says that they receive repeat guests every year from all over the world, and that Rachamankha is a true home away from home for people who have come to know and love Chiang Mai. Insider tip: there is free live music from local artists almost every night in the courtyard at Rachamankha.

The months in late spring and early summer are considered “low season”, primarily because many tourists would rather not travel in the hotter months. I’d recommend travel in Thailand in April to anyone. It is hot and humid but worth experiencing the benefits of low season, like less crowding and more privacy at accommodations. For example, I went for a lovely night swim at Rachamankha and had the pool entirely to myself.

I could have spoken with Walker all afternoon about the property’s design theory and Chiang Mai’s architectural history, but I had to stay on tour schedule and visit Patara Elephant Farm.

Patara Elephant Farm
Patara Elephant Farm

Patara is located 45 minutes outside of Chiang Mai. Journeys Within can coordinate transport for guests from their hotel in Chiang Mai to Patara. Once at Patara, guests are provided fruit, juice, and all the water they desire. I did a half-day at the farm due to my schedule, but whole day visits are also available. We first got to observe the elephants and play with a baby elephant. Then we fed the elephants, learned about the elephants, their names and commands, and bathed them. The elephants are gentile and the staff of Patara very attentive. The elephants are humanely cared for, an objective that Journeys Within prides itself. Our brand is cognizant of the humane treatment of animals on all of the tours we book. Insider tip: The staff takes photos and GoPro video which they provide on a complimentary DVD at the end of the day. 

Kena at Patara Elephant Farm.
Kena at Patara Elephant Farm.

What to Wear for this Tour:

Lots of sunscreen

Lots of insect repellant

Hat

A swimsuit as a first layer, do not intend to bathe the elephants in a swimsuit alone. Thai people are modest, so visitors should dress accordingly.

Swim trunks, board shorts, tanks tops, quick-dry shirts

Sandals

Waterproof camera or camera in a waterproof case

In and Around Chiang Rai

My departure from my hotel was at 7:00am. I was met at my hotel by my guide and the drive was a few hours throughout the countryside, stopping first at natural hot springs, where visitors may dip their feet if they like, and do a little shopping and barganing. Then we stopped at The White Temple, or Wat Ong Khun, which was built in 1997 by a man renowned as the greatest artist in Thailand, Chalermchai Kositpipat, who designed and funded the project. He volunteered himself to build it, at the cost of 400 million Bhat. Insider tip: admission to the temple is currently free of charge until October 2016. 

The White Temple in Chiang Rai.
The White Temple in Chiang Rai.

My guide told me the history of the temple and its artist, and explained details of Buddhist beliefs and how those beliefs are reflected in art. The exterior of the temple is ornate and stunning, regardless that it is only one color. There is also a museum located on the temple grounds that contains artwork by Kositpipat. The inside of the temple as well as the paintings in the museum include some unexpected depictions which are both commentary and satire on American politics. These provide an interesting Thai perspective on the Bush Administration, 9/11, terrorism, and American pop-culture. Also located on the temple grounds is “The Golden Toilet”, an ornate golden temple-like building that houses a restroom, which visitors readily wait in line to use. Insider tip: there is another restroom down the walkway behind The Golden Toilet and to the left, which is very clean and there is no line.  

Throughout the rest of the tour day, we visited the villages of the Akhe tribe and the Mien tribe, stopped for an authentic local lunch, and then visited a street market just outside the border of Thailand and Myanmar. To finish off the day, we visited “The Golden Triangle”, renowned for centuries as the epicenter of the opium trade. This location offers a hilltop view of the Mekong River, with a temple situated at the top that is 1000 years old. We also visited the nearby Opium Museum, which provides a history of the opium trade, as well as information about local tribes.

The Opium Museum, located at the Golden Triangle.
The Opium Museum, located at the Golden Triangle.

There are many stops throughout this tour day and a lot of walking. As usual, I returned to an air conditioned van, ice cold water and cold towels. I stayed at Laluna Hotel & Resort, which I was relieved to find to be like an oasis away from the city after a long day of touring. Laluna’s guest rooms are centered around a large pool, and while it feels like a retreat it is a short taxi or tuktuk away from city life. Insider tip: taxis are available right outside the hotel. 

What to Wear for this Tour:

Lots of sunscreen

Insect repellant

Hat or umbrella

Loose fitting, breathable clothing, i.e. cottons, linens, long skirts and pants, and shirts that cover the shoulders

Sandals or walking shoes

Next up in this series of blogs, I will journey from Thailand to Laos via riverboat on the Mekong. I will spend 12 days touring throughout Luang Prabang, Phonesavanh, Vientiane, and Paske. See more photos of this journey on our Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/journeys_within/. I will post blogs weekly and photos depending on the strength of my hotel Wi-Fi connections, so stay tuned to get an insider account of some of our tours!… Read more »