I just spent the last five days in Bangkok assessing the situation for myself and figuring out the best options for our guests. Callie came with me and she’s a great partner as she is always up for an adventure (trekking through flooded streets) and gets everyone around us smiling despite the current situation!
Callie amusing our bus conductor
Here is my synopsis after my week here:
The Tourism Authority and the larger high-end hotels in town are sticking to the line that all is okay and travel can continue as usual. Clearly they want this to be true and while I think for the most part it is, it also marginalizes the stress, confusion and troubles being faced by a large percentage of the population.
On the other end of the spectrum the media and the many photographers and videographers in town for the ordeal clearly want the best story/shot and they don’t have to go far to get it. Lad Phrao intersection, one of the largest in the city, just North of the Weekend Market, is seriously flooded and as we passed through in our bus we saw about 10 photographers just hanging out at the intersection clearly getting “breaking news”.
I think the truth of the Bangkok situation is actually both of these realities. The city-center hotels are high and dry and the International Airport, though very close to the flooding, is remaining a priority at the moment and is being protected. So yes, most tours can continue as scheduled. For all those people on a tour, you will have nothing to worry about as your guide and driver will know where the flooding is and your tour is going to be adjusted to make sure that you don’t go anywhere that will mean wet feet.
The photos we don't see in the media - a very dry city center
For those independent travelers, it may not be a peachy as the tourism industry makes out…express boats are still not running on the Chao Praya River, for good reason as the current is incredibly strong and some of the boarding piers are flooded. The weekend market is also seriously flooded so trips out there are not recommended. If you are an independent traveler it’s best to check with your hotel on the current situation as it is constantly changing and it’s best to get the story that day.
As far as the center of town flooding, that’s a day-by-day process. While it would be great to believe the government and the travel industry that the worst is over I tend to go with aire on the side of caution. I think it’s better to wait and see on a day-to-day basis. Obviously for people planning a visit to the area this isn’t the easiest advice, but I think at this point there are still no definates and no one is guaranteeing that it won’t flood in the city center…in fact, all the government buildings along Silom Road are heavily sandbagged so despite them saying that it won’t flood, it seems they are still taking precautions and travelers should do the same.
The view from Mo Chit Skytrain Station, just past the Weekend Market
To sum it all up, my advice is to leave travel plans as they are, but stay up to date on the situation and be prepared to make alternate plans if necessary.
I also want to mention that the tourism industry saying everything is fine and blaming the media does not pay the respect due to the workers who are literally evacuating from areas to the East and West of the city or who are living in incredibly stressful conditions. I went with Jeab, our Bangkok Director, to her home just past the Weekend Market and we had to walk through 50 cm flooding to get to her apartment. She is lucky to live on the 3rd floor, but we collected her things and have moved her to a hotel in town for the next couple of weeks. For the travel industry to constantly call it media hype doesn’t respect the hardships that many Bangkokians are living with. To that same measure, the dramatization of the media doesn’t paint a realistic picture of the center of town and that the Grand Palace and other highlights are completely dry. As always the truth lies somewhere in the middle.
Callie and I on our way to Jeab's house
I want to commend my Bangkok team for rising to the occasion, continuing to arrange tours, work with our guests, be a support system for our guides and show their true strength during this disaster. Also, a thanks to our guests who have rolled with the punches, been very understanding about itinerary changes and who have been compassionate to our team here.
We will continue to keep you updated and hopefully we will be sending good news soon!… Read more »
From Jeab, Thailand Country Director, based in Bangkok
Yesterday I was walking around Grand Palace and it was accessible, but they just got more water when it’s high tide. In the evening today the PM has announced that Bangkok will be unsafe in about 3-4 days and they confirmed that won’t be higher than 70 cms maximum but I would advise that we move all guests out of the city to prevent any safety issue that might arise.” Subsequently Journeys Within is rerouting all Bangkok Tour unless guests specifically request to remain in the city. At this point we will reassess on November 1st to determine the best plan for tours in early November.
It seems that mainstream media is starting to pay attention to the terrible flooding we’ve been experiencing across the region for the last month. The Wall Street Journal showed the below map of areas affected by the flooding and it clearly is impacting the entire region. With that said, here on the ground is often a different experience and while we’ve seen the worst flooding in a decade we also have been able to continue living, working and traveling in the region. Below are updates from each office highlighting the flooding situation in their country and outlook for travelers heading this way in the next month. At the moment Journeys Within is not cancelling any tours, there will be some changes as highlighted below, but we feel with close monitoring we are able to still run excellent tours!
Flooded areas of SE Asia
Thailand:
At present the flooding is affecting Ayutthaya, Phatumthani and the outskirts of Bangkok, not the main tourist area. The Center has no flooding and the North, which saw flooding a couple of weeks ago, currently has no problem. For now we feel it is safe to travel in Bangkok, Chiang Mai and to the Islands, but we will have to wait and see the sea level, as high tide is scheduled in the next week we don’t know how this will affect the Chao Praya River through Bangkok. The government is saying that 13-18 October is the crisis period and once we get past this week we will have seen the worst of it.
For all our tours in Thailand we are continuing on as scheduled, the only changes being that we will not run the Klong tour if the guide feels it’s dangerous, and we will recommend alternate ideas if and when it becomes necessary.
Boats are still running normally in BangkokTaaksin Pier
Update : Oct. 16, 2011
We can still run the tours as scheduled because today is supposed to be the day that we get the very highest tide of the year, but we are still okay. The government confirmed that Bangkok is going to be okay and they are trying to save the businesses and main attraction areas from the flood. There are 2 things that we need to monitor: the water that flows from the north of the country and heavy rain, so this weekend until Monday is the crisis period. If we’re safe after that Bangkok will be okay. Any serious news I will keep updating you
From Asia World:
The situation remains largely unchanged since yesterday, with Ayutthaya the only place with significant tourist attractions which is flooded.
Central Bangkok hasn’t been seriously flooded, with only some suburbs on the outskirts being affected, but these areas are very far from Bangkok’s tourist attractions and hotels.
All trains from Bangkok to the north of Thailand are cancelled until further notice. There is no disruption to any airports in Thailand, including Bangkok’s main international airport.
Update: October 25, 2011
From Asia World:
Ayutthaya is still flooded, but the water level there is reducing slowly, and is as low as 30cm in some places. The town still can’t be safely visited, though, so all sightseeing tours to Ayutthaya are suspended until further notice.
Some suburbs on the far north outskirts of Bangkok have been flooded, including Don Muang, the district where Bangkok’s “old” airport is located, and where domestic flights on some airlines, including Nok Air and Orient Thai Airlines, fly from. As of 12:00pm Thai time today, water was beginning to encroach onto the airport’s grounds, so all flights currently on their way to Don Muang will land at Bangkok’s main Suvarnabhumi Airport instead, and all Nok Air flights scheduled to leave Don Muang are cancelled until 1 November. Bangkok’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, is currently not flooded and is operating as normal.
So far the only flooding which has been seen in central Bangkok is in some low lying areas near the river bank on the west side of the river. No tourist attractions or hotels are affected by this though. The authorities are doing their best to manage the flow of water so that it drains safely into the sea through Bangkok’s extensive canal network, and during this process it is possible that some canals and some sections of the Chao Phraya River may overspill and cause some flooding. However, at this stage it looks unlikely that the central business district and the areas where most tourist attractions and hotels are will become seriously flooded.
Vietnam
Currently the Mekong Delta has urgent flood warnings and is heavily flooded in most areas. The most affected areas are from Vinh Long down to Chau Doc, where it is 4.28m under water today. The latest reports show that the flooding is expected to recede from the 15 Oct 2011. We are monitoring the situation daily from our office in Saigon.
Mekong, pre flood
Update: Oct. 17, 2011
The Mekong is still under heavy floods, particularly in Dong Thap, Long Xuyen, Chau Doc and Can Tho. There is a small reduction in the water level since last week and official reports state that the flood will continue to reduce slowly over the next 5 days.
Update: October 27, 2011
All is looking good for your travels right now. I have also just returned last night from the Mekong Delta on an inspection visit and have seen first hand the status on the current water levels on the families that live there and what it means to you as our guests.
The good news is that the flood water is receding and we seem over the worst. I didn’t see or hear of any impact on your travels and everything is operating as normal.
The Mekong Delta is tidal with September and October (especially at lunar cycle peaks) normally giving the highest water levels of the year. At the moment at high tide low-lying gardens are roughly ankle deep in water still, with the pathways and roads remaining mostly clear. Fields are retaining higher levels of water in some areas and the main rivers appear to have stronger currents. None of these observations are presenting significant problems to local communities.
The advantage of the higher water tables for you right now is that you have greater access to the smaller waterways that cannot be navigated the peak of the dry season.
Happy travels!
The waterlogged fields of the Mekong Delta
Laos
Laos is currently having amazing weather throughout most of the country. The south still has a little bit of flooding, but is clearing quickly due to no rain in the last week. As you can see by the picture below the skies are electric blue and the sun is shining brightly. Their is even a cool breeze that chills you off from the beaming sun. The Mekong river is still mighty but has dropped a few meters in the last two weeks. Honestly, the weather couldn’t be any better at the moment. It’s PERFECT!
the always beautiful Laos
Update: October 17, 2011
The sun continue to shines brightly with no rain storms throughout the country. The end of the rainy season is officially upon us as we head into the dry cool season. Those coming to Luang Prabang from now until February make sure to pack a light jacket. The cool breeze is turning into a chilly one in the mornings and evenings, the Laos winter is approaching!
Update: October 25, 2011
No tours being affected at the moment. No rain at all, very dry. Completely perfect weather!
Cambodia
Siem Reap town has been hit with its 3rd flood in about 4 weeks. Last month was the worst, but this latest flood is still causing a lot of damage. Old Market and Pub St. areas are in about a foot of water, and anything along the river is a bit deeper than that. Across the bridge from Old Market has gotten it the worst each time, and this is no exception. Knee-deep water in some areas, but most businesses are still open. There is so far no flooding at the temples this time, and all tours are running normally. The only thing that has been cancelled is the boat from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh and back. No one can access the boat ramps! The damage is going to be very long term here, as it is ruining rice crops and hurting a lot of businesses. Most places in town are still open, you just have to be willing to get wet and trudge through a bit of questionable water! There are plenty of restaurants outside of town that are far from the rising waters though, and still very open for customers.
The river has burst and is covering many streets in townA residential street near the river
So far Phnom Penh has not suffered too badly from this flood. The river is slowly rising, but the city is still high and dry. No tours have been affected and all is running normally!
Update: October 17, 2011
Siem Reap is still under water, and it does not seem to have an end in sight. Rain is forecast for most of the week, and town is in about a foot of water already, some parts more. Getting around town is difficult, and most tuk tuks will not take you into Old Market area because it is too deep. However, there are still businesses open and the temples are still accessible. Again, you just have to have an adventurous attitude and walk through the water if you want to see town. Tours are still going on pretty normally, with minor changes being made if areas are flooded. All boats have been cancelled between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, so guests are advised to fly instead.
JWOC has sent out and emergency appeal for funds to help those affected by the floods. Check out their blog to read about the appeal.
Update: October 25, 2011
Siem Reap seems to have finally risen from the waters and as Brandon predicted (annoying, but true!), the rains seem to have stopped, or at least slowed, and things are starting to dry out. Our emergency relief project last week was a huge success and we are so glad we were able to offer this to the local community. They too seem to be heading home now and while there is still a lot of mud, they no longer have water in their homes. We no longer need to do a day care center for the children, but our focus will now shift to more remote villages.
Driving from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap on Saturday we were amazed at the amount of water covering the countryside. Travel was slow as villagers and cows are using the main road as a dry area to live. Flying into Phnom Penh you could see islands of homes on high land, but much of the country remains under water. Bottom line, tourists can come and go to temples and hotels and the effects of the flooding are not impacting travelers anymore, but the effects of the flood are still being felt by more rural communities and the long-term damage is yet to be tallied.… Read more »
