By: Heather Van Hull- Booking Coordinator, Cambodia
Way back when (about 6 months ago), I used to live in Laos prior to migrating slightly southward to Cambodia. Going with the theme of bizarre foods in Southeast Asia, I decided to repost a blog I wrote a few months back:
Who knew a quiet border town could also be a centre for fine dining? Thakek’s Mekong riverfront boulevard is lined with top notch quaint cafes serving local delicacies ranging from roast duck to spicy appendix (Still haven’t figured out whose appendix…) to be savoured while watching the sun set over Thailand.
After much contemplation we settle on a round of BeerLao and an appetizer of fried crickets – a traditional Lao on-the-go snack and ‘drinking’ food.
Bon appetit!
Typically these little flying morsels of ‘yumminess’ are brought in hopping-ly fresh from local bug farms, then quickly deep-fried to a golden brown, thrown on a plate (or in a doggy bag) and served accompanied with a side of chili sauce. Lightly frying the crickets in oil and spices not only makes them easier to catch with chopsticks, but also makes the outer shell delightfully crunchy and spicy.
See...nice and easy to catch. Imagine doing this if they were still hopping...
If plain ol’ crickets do not appeal to you, you can also order them with sticky rice or ground into the meatballs in your noodle soup. Although fried cricket may not be as ‘saep lai’ (Lao for ‘very delicious’) as a bag of crisps, they are little lumps of nutrition – rich in protein, fat and essential vitamins. The United Nations is encouraging even more bug-eating as a solution to the country’s high rate of malnutrition by raising the income of local bug collectors and increasing the yield of bug farmers.
Small Grasshoppers (100g)
McDonalds Hamburger (107g)
Protein
20.6g
12.0g
Total Fat
6.1g
10.0g
To make this fine Thakek insect dining experience even finer, mobile manicurists on motorbikes cruise up and down the street, offering their services to café patrons. Where else can you get a French manicure while dining? Watch out Ritz here comes Thakek!
There are so many exotic and weird foods in Laos. I could seriously go on and on for days on the foods or dishes you can find throughout this country. Lao people eat anything and everything- Everything. If it walks, crawls, slithers, swims, flies or grows (is catchable and isn’t poisonous) it is eaten. This is one of the main reasons why you won’t see much wildlife outside of protected national parks and even then it can be difficult.
The Lao have not really been educated on the importance of protecting wildlife and certain species, especially in the countryside. Most of the Lao people are still very much hunters and gatherers. If it is edible then it will be hunted and every part of the carcass will be used or consumed. They are not wasteful when it comes to food!
I personally am very adventurous when it comes to trying out different local food and drink. Over the last three years I have tried things like python soup, raw pig blood salad, BBQ sparrow (burnt to a crisp), Komodo dragon stew, buffalo skin, and much more. Below are a few more I have tried, some of which I actually really LOVE.
Padek
Padek is fermented fish. It is used in a lot of Lao food. Sometimes it is used just to add a little flavor to soup and sometimes it is the predominate ingredient to a dish. Once you have tasted and smelled Padek you will always be able to identify it. Pungent doesn’t even begin to give it justice. As I said before, it is fermented fish. I think you can use your imagination!
Padek is enjoyed by all in Laos. It is made by taking whole fish from the river and mixing them with salt, garlic, rice husks and water. After mixing you place the ingredients in a jar. In the countryside this would likely be a clay jar with banana leaves tightly tied by vine around the tops. In the city it is now held in plastic and glass jars and bottles. You then leave the jar in the kitchen area for about 2 weeks. After 2 weeks it is then edible and sold at the markets. The Padek is good for about one year (as long as it is enclosed).
Did I mention I love this stuff? I know you are thinking that I am crazy, most people do when I tell them that it is my favorite thing in Laos. Lao are amazed when I tell them how much I love it. Mostly because they say they have never seen a foreigner eat it. If you want to impress tell someone, Koy mak Padek! Seap lai! (I like Padek! Very delicious!)
Koy mak Padek! Seap lai! (Yum...fermented fish)
Lao Lao with Nok Kwuak (Lao bird, no translation)
Lao Lao is homemade rice whiskey or rice wine- basically it is moonshine. Lao Lao is another lovely, pungent fermented delight. When you head into a Lao Lao Whiskey village, you know it. You can’t escape the smell. And if you think the smell is harsh, wait until you taste it! It is like gasoline. It will deliver quite a punch and it only takes a few shots to not be able to walk straight.
Usually you will see Lao Lao consumed by the locals out of water bottles. Sometimes you will come across interesting sights like the one below.
Moonshine- done Lao style
Lao Lao can sometimes be found at local restaurants or bought from the night market with an animal, reptile or, in this case, a bird inside. Lao believe that some of these provide extra vitality or increase your strength or fertility. I was told that this particular bird possessed the ability to give you energy and heal aliments. I think you have to believe this in order to consume it. Why else would you? And anyone will feel better after a couple shots.
And yes, I did drink this.
Bamboo Worms
I know that once you write the word worm, people automatically think slimy and gooey. Well, these worms happen to be crunchy and crispy (when fried). You can’t find them everywhere. In Laos you don’t see street vendors selling insects as snacks. They are found only in particular local spots and not all the time. That’s because someone has to go out and find them.
Bamboo worms are found in young bamboo stalks. You have to trek out into the forest to find them. You know that the bamboo is infested with theses worms if the stalk is brown at the top and not the normal green. You then cut the bamboo in half and collect the worms into a bag or basket. Then take them home to cook!
According to Lao they are a great source of protein and are the tastiest when coupled with an ice-cold Beerlao. It’s their equivalent to bar food, but much healthier! The worms are usually served fried with oil, lime leaves and chili.
I recently went to the Laos province of Xayaboury where I was able to sample the fried bamboo worms. They were right- they are most delicious with an ice cold Beerlao.
A nice crispy, crunchy, savoury snack with a cool finish
Big Tree Café is located on the Mekong Riverside and has seating overlooking the river under a giant tree, or across the street in a small café filled with the owner’s amazing photographs of Laos. This restaurant choice is a favorite amongst the expat community living in Luang Prabang. It not only is the only restaurant in town that serves Korean options, but the food and setting are impressive.
The owners of Big Tree Café, Adri, a Dutch professional photographer and Mija, Korean chef, really got it right with this restaurant. The setting is simple and intimate. The shade from the massive tree cools you off while you enjoy the scenery of the mighty Mekong River and rolling green hilltops. I would say it is a perfect spot for lunch or early dinner.
The big, shady tree provides shade on a hot day along the Mekong
The staff is pleasant and helpful. Unless you are knowledgeable about Korean food, you will likely need the staff’s assistance in explaining what some of the menu items are. The menu doesn’t go into much detail on the unfamiliar dishes and their ingredients. The menu offers a wide range of items. They have sushi and Go Gi sets to Veggie Burgers to Traditional Lao dishes.
I haven’t had the opportunity to go to Big Tree much and so when I went I decided to take one of the restaurant’s biggest fans suggestions on what to order. I ordered the Duk Bul Go Gi set. It is a great deal for the amount of food that your receive. The beef stew was savory and filling with lots of veggies, definitely my favorite. I liked to wrap the fried egg in the lettuce leaves with some Korean Chili sauce (mildly spicy) and top it with some cabbage Kimchi.
Buk Bul Go Gi set
I have to mention that either you are a fan of Kimchi or you’re not. I have heard about it “growing” onto people’s yummy list, but it takes dedication to getting yourself to like it. I have to admit, I wasn’t a kimchi fan at first, but I have eaten it quite a few times at a Japanese restaurant in town. The Kimchi at Big Tree is superior to what I have tasted and I have come to enjoy its particularly sour and spicy taste.
Kimchi - beware! it does attract the flies
I had a bite of my friends Kimchi burger; the burger cut down the intensity of the kimchi and made it delicious.
The mighty kimchi burger
I also have to mention that we shared Cheese and Tomato Toasties to start. One word, YUMMY! Who doesn’t love cheese deep fried??? We ended up having to cut up the last piece because we just couldn’t get enough!
The cheese toastie - Yummy!
All in all this is a fantastic restaurant on the Mekong River in Luang Prabang. It offers good service, great food and a tranquil atmosphere. I am still looking for the best Lao food restaurant on the Mekong River bank, but until then you can stop at Big Tree for some authentic Korean food and enjoy the shade!… Read more »
