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What is a Tico, and where is mine?

By: Brandon Ross

What is a Tico?  A Tico is a small Korean car that has long since been replaced by real cars.

Where is my Tico?

I took my daughter Callie, son Couper, and the nanny Kio to go play at a kids play zone in town as their school had been cancelled because of the flooding (and yes, we can all fit inside my tiny car). As it had not rained for almost a day the roads seemed fine, but that all changed as we got closer to downtown.  I made it to the roundabout at the river and turned right to get to the bridge as the play area was on the other side of the river. The road along the river was already flooded and the river was over the banks pouring onto the sidewalk. Within moments the brown water covered all of the grass and sidewalk and there was no real way to know where the road was and where the river was. I have never seen a river take over a street so fast.  I took the next turn hoping things would be better, and feeling I was in some Hollywood movie where I had to outrun this thing. Turns out that the road away from the river does not go up as I had thought, and so the water kept getting deeper.  While the kids kept begging me to take them to the kids play area, I was trying to use logic for why we could not go and explained that the bridge that looked like it was floating in the middle of the now giant river with no one crossing it was the bridge we needed to cross and that the reason it looked like it was way out in the middle of the now giant river was because the roads on both side of the river had now become part of the river. They did not seem to care and kept telling me if I took them they would be “soooooo good”. About that time my son suddenly yelled “my feet are wet” as my daughter starting laughing and yelling something about water coming in. Maybe the mind of a four year old does not understand why water would be coming from the door, or maybe he just thought if a little water made his sister giggle a lot would make her roar with laughter, but for whatever reason he opened the door and within seconds my feet were splashing in the water as I pressed the peddles. Then……the car stopped. I turned the key….nothing. I tried again, and again….nothing. I then was explaining to Kio how to steer the car as I got ready to jump out and push the car out of the road and decided to try one more time. It started and I drove straight up onto the curb where we got out and walked, knee deep for me, and waist deep for the kids, down the road till we could get to higher land and get a tuk tuk home. The kids laughed so hard every time a wave of water would flow into the bottom of the tuk tuk.  Four days later my car is still wheel deep in water, on the sidewalk. And since it is raining as I write this I think the car may stay there for several more days or until I decide to just float it back to home.

The Tico, 4 days after we abandoned it
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Rain Rain Go Away!!

By: Brandon Ross

Having been here for over 8 years I feel I know how the seasons are “supposed” to go, but to check I asked Makara and he said I was right that 27 days of rain in the last 30 days is something he has never seen in his whole life.

The kids are having fun!

The rains haven’t been as hard as I have seen. The first year we were here it rained so hard during the first rain of the rainy season that my two meter (6 foot) dry pond we dug went from dry to overfilling in two hours of rain. I don’t know how much rain fell, but in just hours every dry pond was full and the empty dusty field across from me was the swimming pool for the neighborhood kids. The noise of the rain made talking almost impossible, and visibility was cut the way I had seen heavy snow storms do. But it was the end of the dry season and it only rained for a few hours so the ground could absorb the water and the sun helped everything dry out. I have also seen flooding. Two years ago the typhoon that hit Vietnam came to Cambodia and stalled over Siem Reap where it rained for three days solid. From normal late season water levels to people unable to pump from the wells because the top of the hand-pumps were below the flood level happened before anyone had time to prepare. JWOC put out a plea for support and brought in trucks of drinking water, mosquito nets were handed out, and the classrooms were turned into a shelter for families that could not stay in homes.

Near Pub. St in downtown Siem Reap

This year the rains haven’t been that hard or rained for very long. In the 27 days of rain only a few days did it rain all day long, and most rains have been under a couple of hours.  The problem is they just keep coming. It rains, stops, turns sunny, then later rains again, often repeating 3 times in a day. There has been no chance for anything to dry out. And the rains to our north have filled all the rivers so there is nowhere for the rain to go.

Keeping watch

This year the water is hitting the old market area the hardest. Pub Street and the old market have been flooded for two weeks. Some people have actually bricked up their front doors as sandbags are just too temporary of a solution. Cars cannot make it to some of the hotels in town and only trucks and SUV’s would even try to get people to Pub Street. Tuk-tuks are amazing, as I have seen many motors being driven with most of the bike under water, but even some of them are driving to intersections and then telling their guests they can walk through the knee-deep water if they want to go shopping near the old market.

Still selling delicious banana pancakes anyone out in the flooded market area

But its not only downtown that has been hit; 183 people had to be rescued by rafts and helicopter when tourists drove to Bantey Srei temple, 45km from Siem Reap, in the morning with rising water levels, and before lunch the water took out the bridge and washed out the road.

Despite the high economic loss the flooding may be causing by water damage and loss of business, the flooding has been so slow the flooding has hurt very few people. For this reason, and a history that has taught Cambodians to not dwell on the negative, this is a disaster that could be mistaken for a party. In the roads parents are putting their kids in buckets and pulling them up and down the streets. Kids are seeing how much water they can bike through. People are climbing up trees and jumping into the rivers. I saw guys climb up the statue at the roundabout and do flips into the water where a road should be. Sellers are selling snacks out of their carts, knee deep in water, to Cambodians that have decided to come out and play in the flood. There is no looting, arguing with insurance companies, or crying that I have seen, just people laughing as they fill up sandbags, and playing in the roads as if it was a clean swimming pool. I have been here long enough that I have taken my kids to join in the fun that is the Siem Reap flood, but not long enough to not worry about the longer lasting effects all this water will have like polluted drinking water and increased numbers of mosquito borne diseases, and what the government will do to keep it from flooding next year. But for now its time to take out my wallet and cell phone and go splash around.

Making the most of a flooded town
Kid in a box!
Brandon and Callie out for a walk
A daredevil kid ready to jump into the river
He made it!
Callie went prepared!
The moto is still going!
Hotel de la Paix is not used to being riverfront property
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