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Dining In and Around Luang Prabang: L’Estranger, Book and Tea

Posted by Andrea on (Updated: )  |  1 Comment

By: Nicole Long- Laos Country Director

Where:

L’Estranger , Book and Tea

Kingkitsarath Road. Next to Lao Lao Garden and Hive Bar

Luang Prabang, Laos

What was ordered:

Chai Tea

Salsa and Chips

Chicken Soft Tacos

I decided to review the little café and book shop, L’Estranger because it is currently the only one of its kind in Luang Prabang. Sure there are a numerous cafes you can pop into for a delicious cup of joe or a tasty pastry but none of them offer book browsing/shopping.

L’Etranger is owned by the same couple that runs Hive Bar (next door and offers nightly Ethnic Fashion and/or local hip hop dance shows) and the Kop Noi handicraft shop. It has been around for years and is a little hole in the wall, which can be overlooked unless you keep your eyes peeled. In the evening it is usually overshadowed by the local bar scene flanking the shop, but during the day it much more pleasant with an outside patio for people watching or reading a book.

The shop offers good deals on used books and will even negotiate trading/buying some of the ones you have been lugging around for weeks. If you are second guessing not picking up a travel guide book before you left home, you will likely be able to find one here for any of the SE Asian countries for a reasonable price as well as find other pieces on the region.

There are a few other book shops in town but none offer a food and drink.  Their menu is not extensive but they do have some items that are rare to Luang Prabang and it is the main reason I decided to check it out.

People always ask me what I miss most about living in Laos after living in New York City for six years. Before they can even finish the question, I blurt out, “MEXICAN FOOD” (while literally drooling at the mouth)! I may have never been to Mexico or even the west coast of the USA (I know, I know, something is wrong with me), but I do know that Mexican food is my favorite and I will try anything that is remotely related to it.

Homemade Chips and Salsa- a rare find in Luang Prabang

So, I had to have the Salsa with homemade tortilla-esque chips and Chicken soft tacos. I don’t even know if I actually tasted anything because I inhaled it all so fast! I loved it!  Now, maybe the sour cream was more like a yogurt cream and the cheese could have been shredded but I can tell you that my mouth and belly were muy contento. The chicken was cooked to perfection with spices, onions and peppers. And to top it off there was an actual tortilla and jalapeños!

Chicken Soft Tacos

The salsa was more on the pico de gallo side, but it was refreshing and the homemade chips were close enough.  For dessert I had the Chai Tea and it was amazing!  Again, you can’t find that anywhere else here in Luang Prabang. It was a big cup of cinnamon comfort and will be perfect for the “winter” season.

A Big Cup of Cinnamon Comfort

You may not be looking for Mexican while in Luang Prabang and may be more into scouting out local spots, but this is a great place to grab a snack or coffee while reloading on your reading material.  And if you’re longing for a good movie night, check out the little blackboard on the front door where they list the movie they will screen that evening upstairs from the book shop.

Check out more places to dine in and around Luang Prabang here:

https://archive.journeys-within.com/2012/03/15/dining-in-and-around-luang-prabang-saffron-cafe/

https://archive.journeys-within.com/2011/12/18/big-tree-cafe-luang-prabang-restaurant-serving-korean-and-lao-food/

https://archive.journeys-within.com/2011/11/21/lpb-restaurant-laos-restaurant-reviews/

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Dining In and Around Luang Prabang: Saffron Cafe

Posted by Andrea on (Updated: )  |  4 Comments

By: Nicole Long- Laos Director

Where:

Saffron Cafe

Mekong Riverside

Luang Prabang, Laos

What was ordered:

Mixed Fruit Shake

Grilled Chicken Panini with salad

Cafe Latte

Chocolate Chip Cookie Sundae

The Saffron Café is located on the Mekong River side of the peninsula. The café offers seating on both levels of the restaurant and on a small patio overlooking the Mekong River. It is a convenient location in town that offers a great view while you relax with an aromatic cup of coffee or a bite to eat.

A spectacular view of the Mekong River from the patio
Cozy interior of Saffron Cafe

Owned by an American and Lao couple, the café feels clean and comfortable- a bit like a slice of the west but with delicious, strong Lao Coffee.  Many expats living in Luang Prabang claim that the coffee here is much better than the other larger café competitors in town.  After my visit, I have to say I agree!

I found that the coffee here was deeper, richer and stronger than that of other coffee shops in town.  I was also extremely happy to see that I actually was served a real cup of joe. It wasn’t the small little tea cup of coffee that is usually served, but a saucer of warm, frothy goodness (I ordered a café latte).

A Smooth, Steamy Cup of Cafe Latte Deliciousness

I also liked that the menu wasn’t overrun by coffee choices. You merely had your staples with a couple yummy options added in, like the L.P. Malted Mocha or the Carmel Macchiato.  They offer freshly baked goods at the counter if you want something quick and a simple as well as a more extensive menu offering breakfast, sandwiches, pizza, pasta and a few local dishes.  They also have one of the most sinful dessert menus in town. Even though the menu is simple, it’s really hard to choose what to eat!

I had only eaten at Saffron two times before, many years ago.  It is open all day and night, but I think of it as a breakfast/lunch spot. Unfortunately I don’t get out much for these two meals!  I had already tried the Grilled Chicken Alfredo and the Caesar wrap, which are both DELICIOUS. So, I decided to go for the recommended Grilled Chicken Panini with sun-dried tomatoes, marinated olives, roasted mild peppers, mozzarella cheese and garlic aioli.

Grilled Chicken Panini

I think I embarrassed my lunch mate by fawning over this Panini- I couldn’t help myself!  It was just so, so good. It was the right mix of everything. I am always weary of sandwiches with olives and sundried tomatoes thinking it will overpower everything else, but this one did not disappoint. It was just perfect! The little salad was a nice and refreshing side dish (you have a choice between salad and fries).  To make lunch even more refreshing, I had a mixed fruit shake with the meal. It was very good as well, just the right amount of creamy and sweet. I wouldn’t recommend it with your meal, but perhaps for dessert or by itself. It was just too much with the perfect Panini!

I was so delightfully full after the meal, but that dessert page was still in the back of my mind. How could it not be, with choices like Oreo Cheesecake, Mango-Lime Pie, Triple Chocolate Cake (it goes on…)? My friend agreed to help with the dessert and so, after much deliberation, I went for the Chocolate Chip Cookie Sundae.

I don’t have the words to describe its deliciousness.  I will just write you the description and show you the before and after shots.

Chocolate Chip Cookie Sundae- Before

Massive homemade chewy chocolate chip cookie (made daily with fresh New Zealand butter), vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, home-made cashew toffee, caramel and chocolate sauce.

I am practically weeping writing this because it was that amazing.  I am not a huge dessert person, but I whole heartedly yearn to meet with this slice of heaven again.  I don’t know if I will ever be able to try another dessert on their menu because I am so in love with this one!  Tragedy!

Chocolate Chip Cookie Sundae- After

As you may be able to tell, I really enjoyed everything about my experience at Saffron. The only negative I would have to say is that the staff were not so attentive, but once you got their attention they were happy to meet your requests.  If you are in Luang Prabang and want to have some comfort food from home, this is your place.  Even if you don’t want to come for a meal, stop for dessert. I guarantee the sinfulness is totally worth it!

For more information about Saffron Cafe in Luang Prabang, Laos visit their website here: http://www.saffroncoffee.com/visiting-luang-prabang

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Meet You In Myanmar!

Posted by Andrea on  |  2 Comments

By: Andrea Ross

This month I am lucky enough to be leading a group in Myanmar for a week on land and a week diving off the coast. Our Myanmar Culture and Conservation Trip is a collaboration project with Dr. Andrea Marshall- leading expert, reigning Queen of the Mantas and, for me, one of my best friends from high school!

I arrived in Myanmar a few days early to get things prepared and have time to explore the hotels and restaurants here in Yangon.  As it worked out, my arrival overlapped with Arlene and Yi- Han Chang’s tour with Journeys Within here in Myanmar. They had already been to Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia so Myanmar was their next spot.

Arlene and Yi-Han are lovely, loyal clients that I met for the first time at the LA Times Travel Show years ago.  Yi-Han is a self proclaimed foodie and is up for trying anything so Tin, our Myanmar director, suggested we have lunch at Feel Myanmar, a local restaurant with an excellent variety of delicious local specialties.  Set up like a buffet, you approach the plates of food but, rather than helping yourself, you point to what you want and a floating waiter takes your order.  After heating up the food, the waiter brings it to your table.

To get a better feel for Myanmar gastronomy, we tried a little of everything- Burmese curries, Indian breads and chicken, Thai Papaya Salad (or som tum), delicious but smelly fish paste (according to Yi-Han, I don’t go near the stuff) and wonderful satay and desserts!  Not only was the food a total pleasure, but Yi-Han told us an amazing story about his family’s passage from Beijing to Southern China in 1941 as the Japanese moved in during World War II.  As he and his family struggled up the Burma Road, the Japanese closed in behind, taking Myanmar as they went. Yi-Han was only 7 but he still remembers the black teeth of the betel nut-chewing Burmese and, of course, the food they ate along the way!

We tried a little bit of everything

Before lunch started Simon, our guide here in Yangon, turned to me and said what lovely guests Journeys Within has and how all the guides enjoy working with us because our guests are so kind. Arlene and Yi-Han were perfect examples of our wonderful Journeys Within guests!  After lunch they headed off to the airport and I headed to our Myanmar Directors house for dinner…at least I’ll get to keep eating well! It is always a pleasure to meet guests as they travel with us and, while I’m used to meeting guests in Cambodia, it’s a special treat to get to meet them in other exciting locations. Thanks to Arlene and Yi-Han for being such great company over such great food! Where should we meet next?!?

Arlene and Yi-Han in Yangon


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