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One more day in Luang Prabang

One of the comments we get most often from guests who visit the charming city of Luang Prabang in Laos is that they wish they had one more day there; a day with no plans.  While most people are limited in the time allotted for a trip and thus look to maximize their experiences, this is for those travelers with one more day in Luang Prabang …

Kuba

So you’ve finished your official Luang Prabang itinerary — you’ve taken in the rows of monks accepting morning alms,  you’ve traveled down the Mekong by boat and you’ve toured the city’s glimmering temples.

If you stay put long enough, spending time in Luang Prabang can help you slow down and connect with the laid-back attitude that is part of the region’s appeal. Here are a few reasons to take an unplanned day in one of our favourite Southeast Asian cities.

Relaxation.

sleeping buddha -- Thibault Houspic
Even this reclining Buddha, also known as the sleeping Buddha, looks to be enjoying a bit of peace and quiet. — Photos c/o Flickr Thibault Houspic.

Laotians are known for their laid-back attitudes and slow life styles. Spend a day trying to adopt this mentality by napping when it gets too hot or lazing in a hammock for an afternoon. These are the kinds of days that can rejuvenate when on the road. If you do decide to get out and about (and to reiterate it is completely acceptable laze), remember to stick to the shade and move slow — nobody is rushing anywhere in Luang Prabang.

Go for a Coffee .. or three.

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Why not try and find your favourite cup! — Photos c/o Flickr: KhmPUA, Fotor, Sage Taka

Coffee in Laos dates back to 1920’s when the French recognized that the mineral-rich soil would be the ideal environment to grow coffee. Two decades after developing a budding coffee culture, World War II had French plantation owners leaving the area.

When the Communists came into power  coffee was considered a Western indulgence and remained unpopular.  Thankfully, coffee made a comeback in the 1990’s and has been a growing industry since. Today, coffee is one of the country’s most valuable agricultural exports, and while Laos isn’t a major player on the global market quantity wise, aficionados have taken note of the country’s high quality beans.

The result for visitors? Great coffee all around the city.

Whether you want to hot or iced coffee in a Western-style cafe or street stall, in air conditioned comfort or while enjoying a breeze, Luang Prabang is a great place to spend the day trying to find the best Cup of Joe in the city.

Wander the UNESCO site.

Andrew Miller
The lush mountain environment and an antique feel of Luang Prabang always make many visitors wish for one more day.

Many people aren’t aware that the old centre of Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This area is easily enjoyed on foot or by renting a local bicycle.

In UNESCO’s own words:

“Luang Prabang is an outstanding example of the fusion of traditional architecture and Lao urban structures with those built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries. Its unique, remarkably well-preserved townscape illustrates a key stage in the blending of these two distinct cultural traditions.”

In layman’s terms, the city is a fascinating blend of old meets new and East meets West. In a state of renewal and growth — shop fronts are being restored and new business are creeping in — the heritage designation protects much of the charm that make Luang Prabang a favourite among visitors.

So go on, get into Luang Prabang like you have one more day.

 … Read more »

Making a difference in Luang Prabang

Just this last January, two Journeys Within guests, Joanne and David Lockman traveled around SE Asia with a stop in Luang Prabang, Laos. Here Nicole tells us about how they turned one philanthropic tour into so much more …

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While the Lockman’s were in Luang Prabang, they went on a JW custom made tour to lesser visited villages and learned firsthand about some of the culture and traditions that are inherently Lao.

Along with visiting ancient temples, they observed clay pottery artisans and learned local fishing methods from villagers on the Mekong River. They concluded the day with a stop at Ban Xing, a 16th century village on the banks of the Mekong, for a blessing ceremony from the elders of the village. After the ceremony, with the help of their guide, Phaeng, the Lockman’s handed out notebooks and writing utensils purchased in town to the 65 students at Ban Xing Primary School. Even though they had already given items to the school and knew a portion of their tour fees went to a village fund, they felt they could do more.

They inquired what the school needed most and were told that the installation of electricity for lights and fans in the classroom was at the top of the list. The teachers of the school expressed how during the winter and rainy seasons the classrooms would become too dark for the students to see the blackboard, making them incapable of staying focused. In addition to the dark classrooms, the sweltering heat from February to June would also serve as a major distraction for the students.

After returning home, the Lockman’s felt so moved by the gentle and gracious spirit of the village and its residents that they decided to raise funds in order to install electricity at the school. The Lockman’s reached out to friends and family about their experience and asked for help in order to put 2 ceiling fans and lights into each of the 5 rooms as well as to light the outside walkway and the 4 bathrooms. In just one quick week the Lockman’s were able to reach their goal of $1,200 USD, which meant that the entire project could be completed all at once!

Electricity Installation at Ban Xing 010

They made their donation to Journeys Within Our Community’s Village School Sponsorship program and installation was quickly underway at Ban Xing Primary School. The week before last, Phaeng and I went to the school to oversee the electrical team’s installation of the lights and fans until its completion. It was a long day with the electricians working from 7:30 until 5:30, but luckily just as the sun was setting behind the mountains of Luang Prabang, all was complete and we had electricity!

Just today the Director of Ban Xing Primary, Mr. Siphanh, contacted Phaeng to express, on behalf of the students and teachers, their sincere gratitude for the Lockman’s efforts in raising funds needed for the installation. He said, The electricity was very important to the school so that the fan could make the room cool and lights made it helpful when rainy or cloudy. The students seem to have fun and more energy to learn than before. The class doesn’t waste time to wait for the rain to stop because of it being dark.

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Most importantly, the teachers and kids are so happy with the cool fans also. All of us at the village would like to say a big thanks to all the donors that supported the Lockman’s goal and made this rural school in Laos cooler and brighter. It makes it easier to encourage the students to continue to pursue their education. The JW teams hope to welcome our friends the Lockmans when they come back in the future. We want to highlight the Lockman’s efforts and thank them along with their friends and family who allowed Journeys Within and Journeys Within Our Community to help give back to the local community. We would not be able to make a difference without the support of these donations. If you would like to join the Lockman’s in supporting projects like this please visit www.journeyswithinourcommunity.org and find out how you can benefit the lives of others.… Read more »

Boat races take over Luang Prabang

Each year in early September the boat race festival takes place in Luang Prabang — what better way to take in the culture and hospitality of the Laos people. Here our Country Director Phaeng talks about their appeal …

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Each year in Laos there is a Boat Racing Festival that goes on during August or September, depending on Lunar Calendar. This is the biggest festival held on the Nam Khan River in Luang Prabang — there are so many boats that attend including racing boats from neighbor provinces. Boat racing is most fun time of the year for those who like to a good time because most people come to the races to cheer on the boats and ban the drums along the river bank. The boats each take about 35 people who race the boat by padding side-by-side hoping to beat each other. The festival starts in the morning and goes until late afternoon. If you perhaps to come to Luang Prabang during this time make you go early to pick the best spot for photo and get good view from beginning of the race until the end of the stage.

Taking part in this even you will get a true taste of Luang Prabang hospitality! So book one of our Laos tours for early September and take part in the fun.… Read more »

Meet Southeast Asia tour consultant, April

Meet one of the corner stones of Journeys Within Tour Company — our lovely Tour Consultant, April. In addition to being an amazing wife and mother of two, April is an intrepid traveler who finds that great food, life lessons and the quest for chocolate guides her …

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Working out of our office in Truckee, California, April turns the hopes and dreams of our guests into customized tours of a lifetime. Over the last seven years with Journeys Within, she has traveled through Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Myanmar in search of the kind of experiences that enrich and enlighten. Here she talks about what travel means to her, traveling with kids and how travel has helped her grow…

What does your position at JW entail?

I’ve worn a lot of hats in the years that I’ve been with JW, but right now my day to day is pretty focused on tour consulting. I work with our guests to design their itineraries. When someone calls and says that they want to go to Cambodia or Thailand or both, I talk with them to learn more about their interest, their personal travel style and budget. Then I use my knowledge of the region to put together a tour itinerary that really fits them. We then work together to fine tune the itinerary until its perfect. After the guest and I decide the tour is right I work with our teams in Southeast Asia to make the bookings.

Why do you choose to travel?

Not to get cheesy, but I choose to travel because it makes me a better person. Travel allows the opportunity to learn about the world and people on so many different levels, and I don’t feel you can really learn and grow with out going out and experiencing the world first hand.

What parts of SE Asia have you been to?

I’ve travelled to Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and Burma. Having travelled to Southeast Asia every year for the past seven years, I’ve had the wonderful opportunity to see so much of the region. Still it is remarkable how many places I still have on my wish list! I’ve been to the highlights and many off the beaten path locations within each country. I’m excited to continue exploring Southeast Asia as there are always wonderful surprises, as well as the comforts of returning to my favorite locations.

What has been your most challenging travel experience in SE Asia?

I’m really lucky that I always travel to Southeast Asia with Journeys Within. Because of that, travel has been relatively easy. I’m always picked up at the airport and always feel I have a friend and resource in country. So the logistics of the trip and the day to day exploring have never been challenging. What I’ve found the most challenging traveling experience in Southeast Asia has been finding chocolate. I really do get sad when I want a piece of dark chocolate and there is just none to be found anywhere! On the more serious side, taking the time to be less self involved while traveling and trying to really be aware of the local customs and culture  can be hard. You have to put in the effort to conduct yourself in a way which reflects the local customs and culture though they aren’t what you are used to.

Favourite travel memory?

On a horseback ride through the countryside in Siem Reap. We went there with our JW Team, and our JW Jr. Team, which consists of all the children of the staff. My son was about 6 years old when we went on this tour together. He had never been horseback riding, so it was fun that he got to say that his first time riding a horse was in Cambodia. It was a beautiful afternoon and we were riding through a part of Siem Reap I had never been before, and just that would have been enough to make it a very special memory.

favorite travel memory

But when we stopped at the temple and all the kids got off their horses and started playing on and around the temple, my favorite travel memory was formed. Gavin and Cooper (Andrea’s son and Gavin’s best friend), were climbing the temple ruins and they were pretending the temple was Buddha’s last resting place. Then they started talking about the Khmer Rouge and how a battle took place there, but that Buddha had marked the temple as a safe structure. They ran around for about an hour hiding from the incoming troops, and trying to find relics of Buddha, while I sat back and enjoyed an ice cold soda and just watched how much fun they were having. While their sense of history was wildly incorrect, the fact that two 6 year old American boys were climbing on a temple in Cambodia, discussing Buddha and the Khmer Rouge, moved me. These are the things that only travel can give you. The things these boys are learning isn’t from books, it’s from exploring and it will always leave a very special memory in my heart.

Your favourite property in SE Asia?

I’m completely spoiled, I’ll be the first to admit it. Song Saa Private Island is my favorite property in SE Asia. Read my previous blog for more detail.

Favourite dining experience?

I have three favorite dining experiences which are all completely different so I’ll share each of them.

1- “The Bagan Feast”. When we were in Bagan our lovely guide Jo Jo asked us if we’d like to try some local food and of course our answer was a resounding yes! In the span of about an hour we were served 33 different dishes! He said that in the days of the king they would serve him 330 dishes nightly and the Bagan feast is a local way to honor the king’s tradition. But what I really loved was trying all of the local dishes and how much Jo Jo enjoyed explaining each dish and the history around the dish, and sharing his personal stories of the Bagan Feasts he’s had with his family.

2 – Song Saa in room movie experience. The first night we arrived at Song Saa Private Island they had made note that we were traveling with two young children and they asked if they could arrange something special for us that evening. When we came back into our villa after a day of exploring the island we arrived to an in villa movie theater arranged just for us. Along with a popcorn bar (which had about 5 different types of popcorn) and some kid friendly dinner plates with pasta and veggies. Throughout the showing of  Kung Fu Panda, the servers brought in three courses of a beautiful five-star quality sea food meal, but it was served in the comfort of our lounge area while we snuggled with our kids and watched the movie. After our meals we each designed our own ice cream sundaes.

3. Nang Gin Kui. I had the pleasure of attending one of the weekly join dinners at Nang Gin Kui – the #1 Bangkok Restaurant on TripAdvisor and home of Florian Gypser. At first I was a bit hesitant as it would be a small group of 7 other diners at a restaurant set up in a local’s apartment. I had heard of the amazing food and atmosphere at the restaurant, but I wasn’t sure if that would still be as amazing if I felt shy around a bunch of strangers. The host of dinner, Florian, was great at starting conversation with the group and really had a magnificent way of knowing when to start up conversations and when to simply let people be. He also made sure your glass was always full. Each of the 12 courses were prepared and served perfectly, and I really enjoyed the “de ja vu” courses – a.k.a. a second helping of the best bites! The group was made up of ex-pats from America, Italy and travelers from Iran and Australia — there was a lot of interesting conversation and laughter. The dinner took place when there was a midnight curfew in Bangkok and although the dinner started early that night, 6pm, we were all rushing to taxis at about 5 minutes to midnight like Cinderella leaving the ball. It was a very unique and special experience and I highly recommend adding it to trip to Bangkok.

Do you have a memorable guest?

We’re really lucky here at JW as our guests are all pretty remarkable. I feel like there’s a type of person that chooses to travel with us and they tend to choose to travel with us because they’ve done a lot of research and they want to work with a company that supports the local communities and a company with a personal knowledge of the region. Guests who do that much research care about where they are going and how they are making an impact when they travel, and working with people like that is always a pleasure.

A few memorable guests are Edna and Steve Kornberg. They travelled with us in 2010 and they were so enthusiastic about their trip to Southeast Asia and when they returned home they said it was “the trip of a lifetime”. I’m now working on a second trip for them as they’re heading to another part of the region. They are so kind and really want to get to know the people and give back to the communities in these regions.

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Have you ever traveled with your kids?

I have absolutely traveled to Southeast Asia with my kids. I’ve traveled with my son when he was 2, actually he turned 2 while we were in Thailand, and again when he was 6. I’ve also traveled with my daughter when she was just 18 months old. I’ve listed out some ups and downs of traveling with my kids below:

  • The down:

Kids like to take breaks and nap.

  • The up:

Kids like to take breaks and nap! It’s amazing to take the time to slow down and relax and take breaks while you’re traveling. What you discover in that down time, with the opportunity to reflect on what you’ve seen in the day. It’s also nice to take that down time for yourself every once in a while.

  • The down:

Traveling with a kid in diapers is messy!

  • The up:

At least you’re staying in hotels and eating in restaurants so you aren’t cleaning up diapers and a messy house!

  • The down:

It’s a 24 hour of traveling from the US to Southeast Asia.

  • The up:

You’re forced to get up and walk around the plane instead of binging on the entire Glee series with no break to even stand up. Also, you appreciate how well behaved your kids can be.

  •  The down:

They won’t remember all the details of this incredible trip.

  •  The up:

What they do remember, is the experiences with new friends, trying new things, learning something about other cultures, and the time that you spent with them.

Any tips for parents travelling SE Asia with kids?

The most important tip I can give for parents traveling with their kids is to go with the pace of your children, plan less and be open to changes. I find that you’re heading all the way to the other side of the world and you don’t know if you’ll be making this trip again so there’s a lot of pressure to fit everything in, but when you travel with your kids they move at a slower pace at times or things happen and you need to head back to your hotel, so you may miss that museum or temple you had on your list. Take extra time in each location to allow for flexibility, and don’t be upset if you have to skip something or head out early. Really take the time to enjoy exploring with your children, you’ll see and experience so much more viewing the world through their eyes than what any guide book could ever show you!!

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Bring two sets of extra clothes and shoes in your carry on. Kids are messy, and it’s inevitable that if they make enough of a mess to have their clothes changed once — they’ll probably do it twice!

Allow your kids to do a part of the trip planning, give them a half a day that is something they planned. It gives them something to be excited for and gives them pride when the rest of the family enjoys that portion of the trip.

Pack a wet bag. This is my favorite kid product ever and every parent should travel with one. They are designed for diapers, but they are perfect for holding clothes that have gotten messy or wet swim suits.

Pack a first aide kit, with Tylenol and allergy meds. While you’re on tour if your kids get sick Journeys Within can get your kids to the doctor if needed or get you to a local pharmacy, but I find it reassuring to have the things for minor sickness or an allergic reaction easily accessible in my own first aide kit.

Bring snacks from home. While I think your kids should try local foods and experience the culture, sometimes it’s nice to have a quick snack on hand that is comforting. I find granola bars and fig newtons to be easy to travel with and a perfect little blood sugar booster for kids.

Andrea gave me this list when I was taking my first trip with my then 2 year old son and it’s still a great reference.

How has traveling changed you?

It’s opened my eyes to different cultures, giving me the desire to learn more and to be more respectful of the different ways of life and the different points of view individuals have. I’ve brought that back to my everyday life, really opening my eyes to how everyone approaches life a little differently, and seeing that as a really great thing. Travel reminds me a lot of school. Every time you travel you learn so much, and in learning more you realize how much more you have to learn. It’s a beautiful cycle really.

Travel has also helped me to slow down. You want to see and experience, and sometimes that means just sitting down and watching the boats slowly float down the Mekong river, or catching the sunrise at Angkor Wat, or playing a game of cards. It’s not about how many things you can get done in one day, it’s the quality of the experience. I do try to remember that and bring it home with me — although, the amount of coffee I consume makes it hard to slow down sometimes!

Travel has allowed me to appreciate all that I have. And I don’t just mean that about the roof over my head, and the ability to get clean drinking water from a faucet – but it has made me appreciate those things. The quality of my life is really high, in health, family, my job, and the opportunities I’m afforded. Real wealth has nothing to do with income and because I’ve traveled I feel I can see that easier and I realize just how much I have.… Read more »

Authentic eating in Luang Prabang Part. 1

Some travelers find that the best way to experience the destination they visit is to eat authentic and local food.

Atsalin Chicken and Pork

In Luang Prabang you can easily find Lao cuisine at many restaurants along the main roads in town, but they are usually catered to the westerner palate. You can get the gist of the traditional dishes but it isn’t what the locals usually eat.  I will say that when diving into the depths of local fare it does take an open mind, adventurous spirit and a strong stomach. So, this posting isn’t for the conservative and selective eater. Below, you will find my top five favorite spots that are beloved by the Lao and are cheap authentic yummy eats.

BBQ Chicken

  1. Who: Atsalin Restaurant

What: Pan Asian dishes

When: Anytime. Great for a quick bite at lunch or dinner.

Where: Wat Visoun Rd, 5 min. walk away from the temple and near the roundabout

Why: Fast, cheap and delicious Asian eats. It’s the favorite spot for locals and expats.

  1. Fried Rice (Khao Pat)– Vegetable, Chicken or Pork. The best you have ever had.
  2. Pork with Rice (Khao Kha Mou) – Stewed pork served on white rice with green veggies, boiled egg and a savory secret sauce.
  3. Fried Noodles (Khoua Pho)-Fat, white rice noodles with veggies, choice of meat in a flavorful sauce.

Sign for Donsavanh

  1. Who: Donsavanh Ban Aphai Restaurant

What: Lao Traditional Snacks and Beer Pub

When: Day or Night but best in daylight to see the Nam Khan River

Where: On the Nam Khan River bank down from Lao Lao Garden Restaurant on Kingkitsarath Rd

Why: Restaurant used to be located on an island in the river but has since moved to the bank so that it can serve year round. Previously it was only seasonally open due to flooding of the river. It’s a great spot to sit back and observe the locals while joining in on the fun. Grab yourself a little bungalow picnic table and enjoy the views at Donsavanh.

  1. Meing Padek – Pa Dek (fermented fish sauce) used for dipping your concoction of any ingredients served on an open plate (lettuce, lemongrass, Galangal, eggplant, tomato, cucumber, dill, garlic, pepper, peanut, Lao basil, cabbage, fried pork skin, peanuts and noodles)
  2. Other favorites are dishes that include river fish (grilled, stir fried with veggies, Tom Yum soup).

Grilled and stewed duck

  1. Who: Nam Khan Riverside Grilled Duck (no actual name)

What: Duck specialties, Lao style

When: Monday-Thursday 4pm-8pm or until the duck runs out

Where: On the Nam Khan river bank, opposite side of peninsula to Mekong Riverview Hotel

Why: This place originally was only a couple tables under some trees in a duck farmer’s yard. It has now grown into one of the hotspots for the after work Lao crowd. People come out in droves every day to enjoy a Beerlao (with ice) and BBQ duck. You have to come early to get a table and before they run out of duck for the day.

  1. BBQ Duck – Duck that has been rubbed in spices and thrown on the grill. It is served with a hot dipping sauce and veggies to cut the spice.
  2. Stewed Duck – Stewed duck with fresh herbs and spices.
  3. Blood Salad – If you’re really feeling adventurous go all out and get the blood salad (served with fresh mint, lime and peanuts).
Read more »