As Luang Prabang has a small airport and is nestled in the mountains, aircraft with props are common
By Courtney Ridgel
Most travelers will need a visa for Laos, and visas are issued on arrival.
Coming in to land in Luang Prabang, above the stunning landscape and mighty Mekong River
On your flight in, the flight attendants will give you the Immigration forms. Luang Prabang has a small airport, so you will disembark outside and walk around the exterior of the airport until you get to Immigration, which is located just inside and around the corner.
In Luang Prabang, you’ll disembark out on the tarmac and will walk around the exterior of the airport to get to Immigration
You’ll first pass through the visa application line, and you will need to turn in your Immigration forms, a passport photo (a clear 2×2 inch headshot with a blank background) and cash for the visa fee.
The visa application line will be the first thing you see inside the door.
The visa fee for US citizens is officially US$35.00, but there is a sign taped to the booth which indicates that US citizens must pay an additional dollar. We’ve been told that if you arrive at the airport outside of the Lao Immigration hours (Mon-Fri 8am-4pm) you may be charged an additional $1.00 overtime fee, but more often than not, regardless of the hour, you will be charged the additional dollar, so it is best to plan on having $36 in US dollars when you arrive.
Be sure to bring cash with you when you arrive in Luang Prabang
Just to your right are the Immigration counters, and once the visa label has been inserted into your passport, you’ll pass through one of these booths. The Immigration official will take your photo and stamp your passport, and you’ll proceed through to the baggage claim.
The Immigration officials will stamp your passport, once you have your visa
Collect your luggage and head outside to meet your guide who will be waiting for you with a sign with your name on it. Your guide will lead you to the car and will help you stow your luggage. Time permitting, you will be taken for a quick orientation tour around town to help you get your bearings before being taken to check in. If you need to exchange money, let your guide know, and they can help you do this in town.
The baggage claim is just behind the Immigration desks.
Welcome to beautiful Laos, otherwise known as the Lao People’s Democratic Republic!
A view of Luang Prabang from on high. Everything is green, vibrant and fresh after a rainstorm.
If you find yourself in a position to visit Southeast Asia in November, we recommend heading over to Luang Prabang to experience a particularly beautiful and interesting festival – Awk Phansa or the Festival of Lights – which marks the end of the three-month Buddhist Lent.
Monks decorate the temple grounds with handmade paper lanterns, lights and candles, and local families do the same outside their homes. The second day of the Festival of Light is more celebratory with costumes, and fire boat processions. The locals make ’Khatongs’, or little boats, out of banana leaves, flowers, candles and incense and release them in the evening to float down the Mekong River.
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We asked Onkeo, our Laos Country Director, about Buddhist Lent and Awk Phansa:
What is Buddhist Lent?
Khao Phansaa Day is on the first day after the full moon of the eighth lunar month and marks the beginning of the three-month rainy season. The tradition of Buddhist Lent or the annual three-month rains retreat known in Lao as “Phansa”. ‘Khao Phansa’ means to remain in one place during the rainy season. The Khao Phansa festival is a major Buddhism merit-making festival. During Buddhist Lent monks and novices are required to remain in one particular temple, and they have to swear to live in the same place; they can’t stay in the other places overnight. During this period monks will be strictly practicing meditation. Every day of the full moon, monks have to gather in one temple to recite “Phadhimoka” or 227 rules of monkhood.
There is a story of monks who travelled during in this period and damaged local plantations, and news of this event reached the Buddha. Therefore, the Buddha didn’t allow monks to wander to other places during the rainy season – they have to find a proper place or a temple to stay in. This is a time for contemplation and meditation. The monks meditate more, study more and teach more.
How long does it last?
During the rainy season – 3 months from July – Sep/Oct. This year it falls from 8th July – 5th Oct 2017.
What do the local people do during Lent?
Some people give up something for Lent – drinking alcohol, smoking, eating meat… Most people also go to the temple more to practice mediation, listen to the monks chanting and to give alms.
What did you do to celebrate Awk Phansa last year?
Last year I have had a wonderful time with my family on the Awk Phansa day (End of Buddhist lent day), my family all went to the temple in the early morning for alms-giving to the monks, and later we all prepared and cooked a big lunch and celebrated together. In the evening we went to the temple to join the candle light ceremony. Sadly, last year I missed the fire boat parade in town, which I promised I will go see the parade in town this year with my kids and family.
Why should guests visit Laos during this time?
During this period it’s the green season, with very nice scenery (green forest plus fresh air). It’s also a good chance for guests to travel to Laos as they will see more activities happening at the temples and can see how the local people celebrate the Lao way and traditions. Guests can see more farmers growing veggies on their farms and rice paddies. It might be rain somedays, but only for 1-2 hrs.
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If this festival sounds like something you’d enjoy partake in – check out our Awk Phansa touring, which can be added to any itinerary.
Follow our journey for updates and travel tips on some of our key locations and tours throughout this spring, and get inspired for your own next adventure.
For travelers who seek to acquaint themselves with highlights of Northern Laos, these Journeys Within tours are ideal:
Days 1-2: Pakbeng to Luang Prabang: Luang Say Cruise and Lodge
Day 3: Luang Prabang Temples and Villages on the Mekong
Day 4:Luang Prabang: Morning Alms, City Tour, and Kuang Si Waterfall
These tours are customizable to the guest’s preferences and schedules, though Journeys Within can make recommendations on the best timing to schedule certain tours and activities to beat crowds and the sun on hot days.
Day 1-2: Pakbeng to Luang Prabang: Luang Say Cruise and Lodge
My final morning in Thailand I departed early from Chiang Rai by van and drove through the countryside to Pakbeng. The scenic drive includes spanning views of green rice fields and tropical trees, shrouded in a layer of morning mist, with occasional thatched-roofed huts and small temples.
This drive provides visitors a peek into the lives of farmers and daily life for people who live in nearby villages. Monks dressed in orange walk through villages for morning alms, and occasional colorfully woven flags can be seen along village roads that indicate to passersby there is a celebration in town, and all are welcome.
Upon arrival in Pakbeng, I was escorted by my guide to immigration at the border of Thailand and Laos. Visitors obtain their visas, and are greeted by Luang Say staff. The staff provides guests name tags that identify they are traveling with Luang Say, and then wait to be transported to the Luang Say Cruise, first by a short van ride then a short bus ride.
One of the riverboats used for the Luang Say Cruise on the Mekong River in Laos.
Luang Say Cruise boats are quaint 34-meter wooden riverboats. Guests relax in rattan chairs or lounges at either end of the boat, and get acquainted with their fellow travelers as they cruise down the Mekong River. The riverboat provides a shaded, breezy means of transportation to Luang Prabang as guests watch villagers and water buffalo pass by along the way. The staff of the Luang Say Cruise is gracious, often refilling water glasses and treats such as fresh fruit, banana chips, and tamarind. A home cooked traditional Laotian lunch is provided, including Lao sausage (a Laotian specialty) and cooked meat, fish wrapped in banana leaves, vegetables, and rice.
A typical lunch aboard the Luang Say Cruise.
A scheduled stop on the first day of the cruise includes a small village along the river known as Khmu. The tribe originated in India and the people relocated to their current location in 1995. The tribe now consists of 85 families (about 500 people). They farm crops including rice, corn, and hops. Modern advances in the village include running water, electricity, roads, support from Red Cross, and a school that is now five years old. Visitors walk through the village, guided by Luang Say staff, and learn about the way of life for these humble people.
A traditional home in the Khmu Village.
Remember to ask your guide questions, being inquisitive is what enhances these unique tour experiences. Also, it is tempting to take photos of the tribal people and their children, but still polite to ask first. You can also ask your guide to ask people and the parents of children for permission prior to taking photos. These people are gracious to welcome visitors and it is a display of respect to request their images before taking such liberties.
Guests are welcomed with cool drinks upon arrival at Luang Say Lodge. Upon check in to individual private pavilions, guests find their accommodations complete with wood shutters that open to views of the Mekong and mosquito nets over the bed. Each guest room is beautifully appointed in teak wood finishes and made up in crisp white linens, providing a rustic and tidy feel. Insider tip: Luang Say Lodge offers complimentary next-day laundry service to its guests. Not many people know about this, so take advantage!
Guest Pavilion at Luang Say Lodge.
The evening at Luang Say Lodge is a lovely time to stroll around the lodge’s long deck and take photos of the property’s distinct architecture. Multiple sitting areas and an organic vegetable garden are found along the way. The lodge hosts an outdoor traditional Laotian song and dance performance. Some of the guests are even invited to join in the dancing, including me!
Local children singing during the welcome performance at Luang Say Lodge.
Guests who stay at Luang Say Lodge enjoy some genuine time in a locale that is truly secluded. This is an ideal opportunity to ‘switch off’, as limited internet is available only in the main lobby, not the guest rooms. The guest rooms maintain their rustic feel with the absence of television sets. It is truly an experience to spend an evening without attention focused on electronics and, quite literally, leaves guests to their own devices for amusement. Pretend like it’s the 90s again… bring a game, deck of cards, or a good book – a tablet with movies already downloaded, if you must.
A buffet is served the next morning and guests depart for the second and final leg of the journey down the Mekong. One scheduled stop includes Ban Baw Village. While there are no handicrafts available for sale at Khmu Village the first day, there are wonderful goods to purchase at Ban Baw. I did not bring any money with me for our walk through Ban Baw-do not make this mistake. Visitors see how traditional rice alcohol is made and it is also available for purchase for roughly fifty cents for one six-ounce bottle. This alcohol is also sometimes referred to as “LaoLao”. It is stronger than saki, and it is delicious. Also, many textiles are available for sale, such as scarves, blankets, and stuffed animals. Insider tip: Ask your guide to help you distinguish which textiles are factory-made and which textiles are locally-made. The factory-made textiles are also attractive, but it is best to support locally-made textiles from the village. Children sell colorful silk bracelets along the river as the Luang Say Cruise arrives on the riverbank. The bracelets cost less than one US dollar and make for great souvenirs.
Another stop along the river includes the Pak Ou Caves ‘Tham Ting’ and ‘Tham Phoum’, which house thousands of Buddha statues. Make an offering of flowers and incense to one of the Buddhas, along with a good intention, and explore these small caves. Please remember to dress and behave respectfully while visiting the caves. While the caves are not religious temples, the image of Buddha is sacred.
We continued down the river and I was met by my guide in Luang Prabang, then driven to the main part of town for an orientation tour and dropped off at my hotel, Luang Say Residence, to refresh for dinner.
Luang Say Residence in Luang Prabang, Laos.
One tour option for guests that is built as a package includes the Luang Say Cruise, Luang Say Lodge, and Luang Say Residence. Luang Say Residence is a gorgeous French Colonial style accommodation with a grand bar and restaurant located in the main residence and five guest pavilions situated on the large, lushly landscaped property. To stay at Luang Say Residence feels as if to be transported back in time, with white lattice accents and antique style furnishings. Ask one of our tour consultants about Luang Say packages. Different packages are available up and down river and are customizable.
What to wear for this tour:
Breathable clothing
Hats, sunscreen, and insect repellant while stopping along the river
Sandals or walking shoes
Day 3: Luang Prabang: Temples and Villages on the Mekong
What better way to further explore the wonders of the Mekong than by riverboat? We make an early start on this tour, crossing the river from Luang Prabang to Xieng Mien on a shaded longtail boat. This means of transportation is efficient in taking guests from place to place.
A typical longtail boat seen on the Mekong.
Guests on this tour should be prepared to climb flights of stairs and some small hillsides. However, this tour offers sanctuary for the soul with nature walks and visits to several historic wats (temples). Very few tourists can be found in this area at any given time, so it’s a good opportunity to see special parts of Laos in peace and quiet. Monks reside in parts of this area and can be seen dressed in their orange orange robes and going about their day.
Upon return to the longtail boat we continued down river visited a local fisherman for a Lao-style fishing lesson, using only nets. Some guests may join the fisherman in his boat for an up close look.
A fresh cooked traditional lunch is served aboard the longtail boat-bring your appetite! Lunch is a generous spread of chicken, curry, soup, and other treats made by the boat captain’s wife.
Another hidden treasure we visited on this day is Ban Jan, a pottery village that produces all sorts of wonderful clay goods. Again, do not forget to bring some money with you while visiting this village. Ban Jan offers unique hand made souvenirs, and it can’t get any more authentic than to purchase goods straight from the artisans. Visitors may also see artisans at work, expertly creating a new pot or figurine from start to finish.
A man and his wife work as a team to create a new clay pot.
The tour ends with a Lao baci ceremony hosted by the village chief and elders of the community. Buddhists believe that the body is comprised of 34 souls, and the baci ceremony calls all souls back to the body that may have gone missing. The village chief chants and asks the spirits to bare witness as the visitors take part in the ritual. The ritual consists of exchanging food and drink, and villagers tie white strings around each wrist of the guest while offering good intentions of health and prosperity. The strings would traditionally remain on the wrists of the wearer until they fall off naturally, but in modern times, people wait three days and then untie (not cut) the strings, so as to not break the spirit.
The villagers are exceedingly warm and kind. The baci ceremony is a special experience to share with loved ones to commemorate a special occasion, or simply, for the experience itself.
What to wear for this tour:
Breathable clothing, with the knees and shoulders covered for entering temple sites
Walking shoes, no sandals
Sunscreen and insect repellant
Day 4: Luang Prabang: Morning Alms, City Tour, and Kuang Si Waterfall
The earliest start yet in this series of tours was this day at sunrise, and with good reason; to meet the local monks as they walk about town for mornings alms. This ancient Buddhist ceremony is the way in which monks break their fast every day.
My guide took me and my colleague and travel companion, Naida, to a spot set up for us to properly take part in the ceremony. We tied traditional scarves around our shoulders and sat on a blanket with pots filled with fresh-cooked rice. We scooped portions of rice from our rice pots into the food pots of the monks as they passed by and opened their lids. As simple as this process sounds, it is a wonderful experience to make a meaningful interaction, one that I’ll never forget. Our guide was sure to take some photos for us.
Naida (left) and Kena (right) from the Journeys Within Team giving morning alms to the monks of Luang Prabang.
An added bonus to the day was an annual elephant parade through town for the Lao New Year, Pi Mai. We got to see several elephants walk through a small section of town, and spectators had the opportunity to feed them sugar cane.
We returned to our hotel for breakfast, then moved on to visit the National Museum. The museum is a former palace with its rooms staged and preserved as they were once lived in by royalty. This is an interesting opportunity to see the fine craftsmanship of vintage furniture, garments, jewelry, paintings, and gifts to the royal family from other countries over the years up close. Visitors may also visit the royal automobile garage which showcases some of the cars gifted over the years, including an Edsel from the US-pause for reaction.
We continued on to see the beautifully ornamented temples of Wat Sen, Wat Xieng Thong, Wat Visun, and Wat Aham. Our guide told us the stories behind the temples’ decoration, and we came face to face with wood-carved Buddha statues over a thousand years old.
One of many temple interiors in Luang Prabang, Laos.
Our next destination, Ock Pop Tok Living Craft Centre, is a veritable textile institute that includes a hotel, restaurant, workshop, instruction space for weaving classes, and an exhibition for antique textiles. We had the pleasure of meeting founders Joanna Smith and Veomanee (Veo) Douangdala, who shared with us the story of Ock Pop Tok’s evolution.
Joanna (left) and Veo (right), giving Journeys Within an exclusive look at their textile catalogue room at Ock Pop Tok.
The concept began as a small public showspace that featured unique collaborative pieces created with Veo’s knowledge of traditional Laotian weaving and Joanna’s formal education in fine arts. The result; vibrant textiles that represent the intersection of historic culture through the modern interpretation of two creative minds. The first tour group to visit the show space bought nearly all of their textiles.
Joanna and Veo designed their first official collection and eventually relocated the show space to their current location in Luang Prabang they established ten years ago. The evolution of Ock Pop Tok’s expansion is the result of their collective response to fulfilling the needs they identified in their market and in the preservation of their craft. They began to offer weaving classes by popular request. The weavers on staff also prepared lunch for the students in the weaving class. The response to the food was so positive, they opened their restaurant, Silk Road Cafe. They found that many guests were seeking to take different classes over the course of several days and wished to stay on the property overnight, so they opened a villa with guest rooms.
Ock Pop Tok now houses a hotel, restaurant, workshop, instruction space, and textile exhibition.
The efforts of Ock Pop Tok over the years resulted in a textile empire and fair trade business that employs and empowers local women through a financial model that supports growth, diversity, and preservation of authentic textile weaving.
Ask your Journeys Within tour consultant about options to include a tour of Ock Pop Tok and weaving classes into your itinerary while visiting Luang Prabang.
After our tour and lunch at Ock Pop Tok, we ventured on to Kuang Si Waterfall, which is over an hour trek by car. We were transported by air-conditioned van, occasionally splashed with water by the local people for the Lao New Year with the traditional water celebrations. Insider tip: If you visit Laos during their New Year, do not drive through town with your windows down-you could get splashed! Also, place your cell phones and other electronic devices in plastic bags to protect them while walking through town.
Local people enjoying traditional water celebrations for Pi Mai.
An added bonus to this tour, we stopped at the Laos location for Free the Bears, Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre, a sanctuary for Asiatic Black Bears (also known as ‘Moon Bears’). Free the Bears is an organization that rescues and rehabilitates bears that have been abused. The Asiatic Bear population is declining, due primarily to illegal poaching and deforestation. Visitors can see rehabilitated bears from a distance as they play, climb, and sun themselves in their enclosure.
Kuang Si Waterfall is not far from the rescue centre, where visitors enjoy a tree-shaded oasis in one of the many crystal blue pools throughout the area. Visitors can swim, hike, picnic, and lounge at this scenic retreat. The hike in particular offers an exciting excursion for the day, with a half hour trek to the top of the highest waterfall. There are some steep areas on the hike, so mind your steps. Once at the top, visitors may explore the pools in a small boat with a guide. The top of the waterfall is also an opportune vantage point for photos, just remember to be safe and mind the signs.
What to wear for this tour:
Sandals or walking shoes for the city tour, walking shoes for the Kuang Si Waterfall
Hat
Appropriate clothing for giving alms to monks and for visiting temple sites
Sunscreen and insect repellant for the Kuang Si Waterfall Next up in this series of blogs, we further explore Laos including Phonesavanh, Vientiane, and Paske. See more photos of this journey on our Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/journeys_within/. Stay tuned to get an insider account of more of our tours!… Read more »
Journeys Within strives to provide personal connections with every tour experience and we love it when our guests return home feeling they have truly made a connection on their trip.
Such was the case for guests Gerald and Lesley Robinson when they traveled to Laos last November as part of their Southeast Asia adventure. Near Luang Prabang they visited the village of Ban Xing (the “Lion Village”) and met with the local elders. As part of their visit they participated in a traditional baci blessing ceremony in the home of Mr. Bouaphan.
After their visit we received the following message from Gerry and Lesley:
How have you been? Lesley and I still talk about our trip; it truly was a trip of a lifetime, thanks to all of you. All our guides were wonderful. They were personable and knowledgeable. We felt like we were with old friends the whole time.
We would like to have the name of our guide in Laos since we have forgotten it and how to contact him. Lesley promised to send some items to him for his children. Also, she has some items for the family we met at a village ceremony, which was a definite highlight. We really bonded with the village elder and his family.
Thank you very much.
Gerry/Lesley Robinson
Gerry Robinson and Mr. Bouaphan in his home
Happily the timing worked and Andrea was able to carry their gifts in her luggage during her last trip to Laos.
Mr. Bouaphan receiving gifts and photos from Gerald and Lesley.Mr. Bouaphan wearing a necklace sent by Gerald and Lesley
Phaeng and Sone from the Journeys Within Laos Office delivered the gifts in person to Mr. Bouaphan. He was very moved and wanted to write back to Lesley and Gerald to thank them. Here is a copy of his very sweet letter:
Hello Gerald and Lesley!
Long time ago that you were gone from Laos, even that we are still thinking of both of you. First of all I need to say thank you very much for your gifts that send to me and my family, I had received that on 24.March.15 that delivered by Mr. Phaeng and Sone from Journeys Within. I’m very glad to get those gifts from you, even though you are so far but you still charitable me and my family. So I don’t know how to reward anything for your kindness besides say Thank you so much and we will remember you and your family in our hearts forever and if you have time to come back Laos again please come to visit us, we really honored to welcome you and your family to our village. Finally I need to wish you and your family have a good health and successful with your work and life.
Best Wish, Bouaphan.
Thank you Gerry and Lesley for your thoughtfulness and we were so glad to help facilitate this bonding across the continents and cultures.… Read more »
Our Loas office often refer to each other as family, as they have grown so close working together. Over the years they’ve made many special memories and have watched the company and each other grow. Take a look at their reflections of their years with team Journeys Within.
We love Loas. This small, but infinitely charming country is the surprise favorite of many of our guests. Below are the team members that help us show off the beauty of Laos.
Houmphaeng “Phaeng” Phommaly:
Phaeng and Nicole — our Laos dynamic duo.
What are your thoughts about Journeys Within now?:
I don’t think I can find other companies that has such best team and so big now as I can see we have more groups coming in each year.
What are your thoughts on the next ten years (or just the future) for Journeys Within?:
I think this company not just stay at the same level but it will be one of top company in the world and we have our own unique tours.
What is your favorite memory working with Journeys Within?
I had so much favorite memory working with Journeys Within. When we have Guide Training and Tour Inspection I have such a wonderful time.
Nicole Long:
Nicole and the Laos team during training.
What are your thoughts about Journeys Within now?:
Honestly I am still excited about working with Journeys Within and how with each passing year we continue to grow by adding to our team, extending ourselves further to new countries and in creating new innovative tours. Even though we have grown, we have continued to stay true to our goal of quality over quantity. I feel as if our expertise on the region has grown over the years through continued training, experience, guests feedback and having eyes and ears on the ground.
What are your thoughts on the next ten years (or just the future) for Journeys Within?:
I think with our aims still in mind we will continue to improve each year. I know that the people on our team really believe in Journeys Within as a company that strives to give guests experiences of a lifetime. I think with that belief we will only continue to grown and improve our services. If you build it, they will come!
What is your favorite memory working with Journeys Within?
It is so hard to choose a favorite memory over the last 5 ½ years. There have been so many that have been made of these last years that I will carry with me forever. I think the majority of my favorite memories come from spending time with the Lao community or my Journeys Within team. Whether it was scouting tour options in villages or team building experiences with guides or joining all the SE Asian Journeys Within team in Cambodia; they were all awesome moments in my life!
What I love about working for Journeys Within is that these memories will continue to be made. Even today I added to my favorites when Phaeng, Laos Country Director and I went out to a village that we have been sponsoring for the last 5 years to give uniforms and shoes to all the students. Journeys Within sponsored 2 new uniforms and a pair of shoes for all 58 students at Phik Noy Primary School. Seeing all those smiles just warmed my heart and made me extremely proud to have the opportunity to represent Journeys Within.
Bousone Phonepaserth:
Bousone visiting Ban Kok School.
What are your thoughts about Journeys Within now?
In my opinions Journey Within is a best company to provides any trips for tourists who are wanting to travel in Southeast Asia. On the other hand, Journeys Within is also a very professional tour organization that can highly recommend the best destinations for traveling.
What are your thoughts on the next ten years for Journeys Within?
I expect that we are a constantly growing team of travel specialists. Our goal is to provide quality travel experiences benefiting our valued clients and that shows consistent growth in knowledge and services.
What is your favorite memory working with Journeys Within?
Even though I just started to work with Journeys Within only 10 months ago but I have made many great memories with the JW Team. I got many experiences, knowledge and help from our team. We are working closely to help each other like we are a big family.… Read more »
