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Plain of Jars

 With experienced and knowledgeable guides, Journeys Within can help you explore one of the world’s largest archeological mysteries…

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More than 80 years ago, french archaeologist Madeleine Colani headed to the Xieng Khouang plateau in search of answers one of Laos’ great wonders.  Braving the Southeast Asian rains and a considerable risk of dengue fever — many of her camp fell ill — Colani had her sights set on revealing the secrets long-held within the Plain of Jars.

She documented the man-made wonder, which features more than 1,900 stone jars littered around the hilltops of the Xieng Khouang province. While some sites have clusters of just a few of the artifacts, others are home to hundreds of the moss-covered archeological anomalies. Who created them and for what purpose remains, for the most part, a mystery.

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A tree splits one of the sandstone jars in two.

Local legends have developed about the jars original use — some saying they stored water along a once well-worn travel path, while other legends have the jars used to make celebratory rice wine after a good Kings great victory.

In her two-volume, 600-page work called The Megaliths of Upper Laos, Colani cataloged and described the artifacts, eventually concluding, rather convincingly, that they were urns of sorts, used to hold cremated remains. Archeologists since have supported her findings.

And yet, decades after Colani’s volume was published, very little is known about who is responsible for their creation.

Chipped and slowly being overtaken by the elements, the sandstone jars vary in shape and size, ranging anywhere from one metres to  three metres in height. They are undecorated, with the exception of a single jar at Site 1. Called the Frogman, the jar is carved with a bas-relief depicting large full-frontal humans with their arms raised and knees bent — a significant feature since similar rock paintings in China date back to somewhere between 500 BC and 200 AD.

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Located near Phonesavanh — a breath-taking, seven hour drive from Luang Prabang — the Plain of Jars is an archeological wonder ready to be explored.

Learning the secrets of the awe inspiring relics hasn’t been an easy. Since Colani’s time, Laos has been ravaged by war. In an attempt to stave off the Vietnamese, the United States carpet bombed much of the quiet Southeast Asian country.

Almost as mysterious as their appearance itself is how the Plain of Jars has remained relatively in tact despite being located in one of the most heavily bombed areas in the world.

As a result of the carpet bombing the area is still riddled with UXOs (unexploded ordinance); as a result only seven sites have been cleared and are currently open to the public.

The removal of UXOs is ongoing; as more sites open to both researchers and the public there is a chance that long-held questions will be answered.

No less enchanting than when Colani made the trek eight decades ago, the Plain of Jars offers a rare opportunity to get lost in a centuries old mystery.

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Cambodian Activist Tep Vanny garners international recognition

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“We fight for everybody. We have made a commitment for life. All Khmer have rights, freedom and power. Your leader is your servant. We need to stop walking the path as before. They did not know their rights [then] and didn’t know how to use them.”

Tep Vanny to TheWip.com

A Cambodian land rights activist is set  to receive an international award for her efforts to bring attention to the country’s land grab crisis — one that has pushed hundreds of thousands of people out of their homes in the name of lucrative  developments.

Tep Vanny is set to receive the Global Leadership Award later today for her work rallying the Boeung Kak community against the questionable practices used to remove locals from their land. Created by U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton in 1997, the award celebrates women from around the world who advocate for justice, strengthen democracy and protect human rights.

Since being forced from her home in 2008, Vanny has advocated for an active civil society and government accountability while fighting against the Boeung Kak development.

In 2008, roughly 4000 families were evicted form the area around Boeung Kak Lake in Phnom Penn to make way for Chinese investments. Offered little in the way of compensation, the families were forced to watch as the natural lake was filled in and their homes bulldozed.

Vanny was among the Boeung Kak 13, a group of women who were arrested, and then tried and convicted in a single day, for peacefully protesting against the development. Their struggle has become the subject of french film makers documentary Even a Bird has a Nest and a symbol for wide spread issues plaguing Cambodia.

Vanny isn’t alone in her condemnation of the Boeung Kak development project which has faced criticism for the cronyism involved — the land was sold to a firm owned by Lao Meng Khin, a senator for the ruling Cambodian People’s Party —  as well as its further displacement of the poor.

A former grocer, the eloquent speaker and human rights advocate is an obvious spokesperson for the land rights movement. Not only has she and her family been evicted from their Boeung home that was gifted to her in 2006 by her in-laws, her parents are living in the Kampong Speu province where small scale farmers have been forced off their land by large-scale sugar cane plantations.

By speaking out, Vanny and the thousands of other women, men and children that she has come to represent are actively pushing for the future they want. They are the voices of a changing Cambodia; voices crying out for justice and equal treatment under the law. She may be the spokesperson, but behind her are thousands of others across the country voicing their own need for change.

“What motivates me is the injustice, to be strong for my community. But it’s not justice only for my community,” Vanny told award organizers. “It’s for everyone, every community affected by development. I want to show that everyone needs to understand their rights so that the government has to take notice.”

Journeys Within would like to congratulate Tep Vanny — and all those who stand beside her — for offering Cambodia the hope, strength and vision to push for a better future.

– image courtesy of Amnesty International
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Myanmar opens up to the world

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Long hidden from the world’s gaze, Maynmar’s tumultuous past hasn’t stop adventurers from wondering what mystery, diversity and beauty lie behind its borders. As the country opens up to the world and begins to court an increasing number of tourists, Myanmar is quickly emerging as South East Asia’s newest ‘must see’ destination.

As a result of its new-found popularity, more than one million people visited Myanmar last year, a 30 per cent increase over 2011.  The country’s Union Minister for Hotels and Tourism, U Htay Aung is looking to entice even more people in 2013; and with good reason. Revelers hoping to get a glimpse of the great Golden Swedagon Pagoda have nearly tripled the tourism industry’s earnings to $534 million in only three years.

It isn’t just the government that values letting the outside world in. Local people are known to welcome tourists with open arms. Stories of poor villagers sharing their meals with passers-by are as plentiful as the tales of the shy charm of the traditional people overwhelming tourists. Guest after guest report being enchanted by the kindness, smiles and even love of football, that they found within Burma’s borders.

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Friendly locals and rich culture are among the many reasons to explore what Myanmar has to offer.

That being said, the country isn’t free from the growing pains of an emerging economy.  Myanmar’s infrastructure isn’t yet prepared to keep up with the increasing influx of tourists each year. The country that once struggled to attract tourists is now swamped with reservations; hotel and flights routinely fill up. Foreign investors are anxious to meet the growing needs, with big name chains like Best Western and the Marriott already expressing interest. Some would argue that now is the time to visit — before the burgeoning tourism industry attracts giants to gentrify more than just the beaten track.

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Local flare is among the many reasons Myanmar is being hailed as one of 2013 must see destinations.

Previously shying away from Myanmar because of its military government and the obvious human rights violations Journeys Within founder Andrea Ross decided to see for herself in 2004. Upon meeting the people there, who seemed eager then to opening their lives to tourists and the outside world, she set her sights on offering Myanmar as a destination for her guests. In the eyes of Ross, tourism creates a dialogue and dialogue pushes freedom; the opening of Burma allows new ideas to flow, giving the people of Myanmar fresh perspectives going forward.

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Young monks looking out at a small monastery en route from Heho to the northern end of Inle lake.

None-the-less, responsible visitors should be aware that in parts of the country, civil unrest is still common place and some tourist dollars are bound to find their way into the hands of the former military junta-turned-businessmen. That being said, money well spent by visitors can also used to help preserve ancient ruins,  benefit smaller communities, while supporting the small local businesses can help boost the income of those in need.

Perhaps it is Myanmar complicated past and present, not to mention its rapidly changing future, that gives it its allure.

Long have outsiders wondered about the complex country, rich culture and picturesque landscape that rest just beyond its political boundaries. As opportunities for tourists within the country grow, there may not be a better time than now.

With one week to 19 day tours, trusted guides and drivers and the ability to tailor trips to individual interests, why not let Journeys Within take you behind Myanmar’s silk curtain?

What’s in a name? Is it Burma or Myanmar?

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In 1989 — one year after a popular uprising resulted in thousands of deaths — the ruling military junta changed the country’s name from Burma to Myanmar.

While most media and official outlets around the world have adopted the new name, Canada, the United States and the United Kingdom still officially forsake the use of Myanmar  — a move that Myanmar’s government recently called out.

Countries who don’t use Myanmar cite the illegitimacy of the name change, as it was instituted by an unelected military regime; internationally, both names are recognized.

Within the country, opponents of the military leadership ignored the name change, instead sticking with Burma. This group includes human rights activist and Nobel laureate Aung San Suu Kyi, who continues to exclusively use Burma much to the governments chagrin.

Anthropologist Gustaaf Houtman told the BBC that both names have a a long history of use within the South East Asian country, Myanmar used in more formal or written situations while Burma was used colloquially.

With wide ranging political and historic implications, there is no easy answer on which name is more or less correct. Like everything else in Myanmar/Burma, its complicated.

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Documenting Cambodia — a Siem Reap exhibition

The current state of human rights in Cambodia is illustrated in 1961’s latest exhibit ‘Documenting Cambodia’. Opening earlier this month, the gallery’s portraits take the viewer to parts of the country rarely seen…

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In greased covered clothes, kneeling amongst his tool, the young boy in the photo looks more like my hard-working grandfather than the child he is.  His hardened gaze meets me with resistance and I can’t help but wonder when was the last time this working boy laughed. His face refuses to give him away.

This was among my favourite pictures at the Documenting Cambodia photography exhibit at 1961, in Siem Reap. Running until April 30th, the exhibit highlights the state of human, social and environmental issues in Cambodia today.

Omar Havana’s picture of the young boy/mechanic was taken for his piece on child labour in Cambodia wasn’t the only compelling photograph to strike a cord with me.

Each of the seven photographers involved with the show — Erika Pineros, Thomas Cristofoletti, David Belluz, Meng Kimlong, Omar Havana, Sam Jam and George Nickels — paint vivid portraits of the issues they represent.

Evening shots of people with headlamps on mounds of city garbage make up Meng Kimlong’s piece Life in Rubbish Dump.  She highlights the lives of those who spend their days rummaging through trash in order to make a living.

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Thoman Christofoletti’s series Blood Sugar, which examines land grabs by large sugar companies and the lives of those displaced and forced to work in the fields.

Blood Sugar by Thomas Christofoletti looks at the effect the sugar cane industry has on rural populations whose land has been seized. With no other economic drivers, the former subsistence farmers and their children work long hours, for little pay.

The exhibit also examines two other land rights issues.

David Belluz examines the People of Andong — the 7,000 Cambodians who were forcibly evicted from a city slum so their land could be sold to a real estate developer. They were relocated to an empty field 24km outside the city, where there were no homes, no fresh water and no sewage facilities. Belluz’s photos of life around the cracked culvert are a testament to strength and tenacity of the people who refuse to give up.

Erika Pineros’ exhibit, The Untitled, looks at the 2007 annexing of 133 hectares of land in Phnom Penh, including a large natural lake that was filled in. The land was eventually leased to a company owned by senator for the Cambodian Peoples Party, leaving 3,500 families out on the street.

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“I want Cambodian law to be fair for everyone even rich or poor, for those people who have no voice in court. Last of all, is there any justice for poor people like me?” — a prisoner silk-screens this message during an art project on Human Rights Day.Part of Sam Jam’s exhibit Prisoner Portrait.

The state of the current prison system and the long term effects of landmines — Pol Pot’s perfect soldiers — are among the other issued tackled by the talented photographers.

While the subject matter is complicated and at time daunting the photographs don’t dwell in the darkness.

The stunning photos are accompanied by brief biographies of the issues examined, making the exhibit as informative as it is visually appealing. A great introduction to those visitors looking to delve a little deeper into issues that shape the current Cambodia.

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Vote Now for Travel and Leisure’s Best Of List

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Have you been on a trip that you really enjoyed? Had a hotel go above and beyond to meet your needs? Did an airline manage to keep your luggage on track? Why not have your voice heard in the annual Travel and Leisure World’s Best Awards survey?

Travel and Leisure Magazine is looking for public input on everything from the world’s best hotels, spas and airlines to tour companies and car rentals.

Added bonus: sharing your opinion could net you more than the good feeling of passing on your kudos — rating your travel favourites could win you a dream vacations worth up to $10,000 or $1,000 cash prizes in Travel and Leisure’s 2013 World’s Best Awards Sweepstakes.

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