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Discovering Nong Khiaw, Laos

Is over 400 pictures taken in 3 days too much?

Obviously, one of the greatest rewards of working for a tour company is the opportunity to travel.  I usually allow all other work to take precedence over this job requirement and haven’t been out exploring and tour inspecting in quite some time.  But felt was about time I got out of the office and took advantage of my work!

Recently, a colleague of mine was setting off to the northern part of the Luang Prabang Province with his employees for their annual work trip and invited me along.  They would be going to Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi, two small villages that I have heard great things about from the expats living in Luang Prabang.  Also on the trip they would be staying one night at a homestay at a small village my colleague claims to be his favorite in all of Laos.  According to sources I would be seeing lush limestone cliffs, green rolling hills and valleys, beautiful textiles and quiet riverside village living.  How could I resist such an offer?

So, I set off for three days over a Laos National holiday weekend armed with a couple of the areas experts, bug spray and most importantly, my camera.  I felt pictures would do a better justice summarizing my weekend adventure more than with my words. Now, you tell me if it looked like an adventure worth getting out of the office for…

Driving to Nong Khiaw takes about 3 ½ hours.  The drive is one of most pleasant drives I have ever had in Laos.  The road surprisingly followed the Pak Ou river so the van didn’t have to whip around  or climb to many of the mountains.  The blue skies, rolling hills and endless tribal villages made the 3 ½ hours feel like a breeze.

Picture 1: View of Pak Ou River and the valley from along the road

Picture 2: Textile Indigo sild drying along the road

Picture 3:  Pit stop. One of my favorite traditional houses.

Picture 4:  Blazing green rice fields galore.

After arriving to Nong Khiaw, the only “town” we were to visit over the next three days, I realized why Luang Prabang was considered the big city in Northern Laos.  Nong Khiaw doesn’t have much beyond great views, river shrimp (if in season) and a true small town feel. And that is exactly why I liked it.

Picture 1: Main Steet in Nong Khiaw

Picture 2:  Lucky for me it was the season for river shrimp – yummy lunch

Picture 3:  Quaint Riverside bungalows with great views

Picture 4:  View from bungalow balcony

Picture 5:  She is carrying a 40kilo bag of rice up 100 stairs, in the blazing sun, barefoot and with her head!

Picture 6:  Surrounding mountains at Nong Khiaw

Who doesn’t love boat rides?  I guess some don’t, especially during the rainy season.  But while driving up river you forget about the occasional rapids because of the stunning views along the way.  The 1 ½ boat ride until Sopjam village has been one of my favorite boat rides in Laos thus far.  Because of few villages along the river, much of the landscape hasn’t been touched. The looming limestone cliffs look as if they are going to fall right on top of you. The mountains are overflowing with lush green fauna and tall tropical trees. And majestic blue skies that are so bright you honestly can’t look at them for too long.  I also had the opportunity to see the mountains from the river on foggy, rainy morning when we were returning to Nong Khiaw.  The fog wrapping the mountains and creeping along the river made me feel as if I had dropped into another world.

Picture 1:  Fog wrapping the lime stone cliffs

Picture 2:  It felt as if the fog was following us.

Picture 3:  Nothing like a beautiful day for a boat ride.

Picture 4:  Rolling along…

Picture 5:  Towering white limestone cliffs

Picture 6: Look at that sky!

We finally made it to the village of Sopjam where we would be sleeping in a homestay.  This tiny village on the river of Pak Ou relies heavily on the fish they catch and the textiles they weave..  After only an hour I could see why this was my colleague’s favorite village in Laos.  I’ll let the pictures explain…

Picture 1:   This charming and dusty village is surrounding by mountains and water.

Picture 2:  Fishing boats resting on the still river

Picture 3:  No reason for a bike in this village – piggy back only

Picture 4:  My suite in the village headman’s house

Picture 5:   Sopjam specialty

Picture 6:  The Princesses of Sopjam

Picture 7:  The village waking up – literally at dawn

After an evening we traveled down river to the village of Muang Ngoi.  Muang Ngoi is bigger than Sopjam but still much smaller than Nong Khiaw. Muang Ngoi has some delicious Lao food, great walking/trekking options and cute bungalows.  It’s hard to get lost in this small town but difficult to find your way to bed if you don’t make it there by the 10:00 electricity curfew.  I am so thankful that the moon was at least out to help guide my way!

Picture 1:  The main drag of Muang Ngoi

Picture 2:  American remembrances used as decoration

Picture 3:  View of rice fields and mountains while trekking to the caves

Picture 4:  River Fisherman set with net and spear gun

Picture5:  The crystal clear water from the cave.  It felt as if I was swimming in the fountain of youth!

Picture 6:  The picture doesn’t do justice to the electrifying color of the rice

Picture 7:  Muang Ngoi the Pak Ou River

Picture 8:  Setting sun and rising moon.  Now is not the time to have forgotten my flashlight!

All in all, it was a great trip not too far from home (Luang Prabang).  The traveling was light and with spectacular views.  The villages were charming and peaceful.  And the experience was unforgettable.  It reminded me how much I appreciate the job I have and the country I love to do it in. Can’t wait to go back!… Read more »

Vang Vieng, Laos

I haven’t visited Vang Vieng in a couple of years and when I was there it was a true backpackers haven with nary a decent hotel in site. Nicole Long, our Laos director recently took a trip to Vang Vieng, Laos to see what changes were happening and whether it could be a destination we include on tours. She also stayed at a few of the hotels in town and we are proud to present our newest partner hotel in Laos:

My feeling is that Vang Vieng could be a good choice if someone wanted to travel from Vientiane to Luang Prabang by road. It is only a 2 to 3 hour ride from Vientiane and it could be a stop on the way to Luang Prabang or just as a retreat from many of our guests who are traveling to “cities”.

Name of Hotel: Thanvansouk Resort and Hotel
Location : Vang Vieng, Laos
Thavansouk River front Bungalow

Review: The best overall option in Vang Vieng is the Thanvansouk Resort and Hotel. The hotel is divided up into two basic style rooms with either river or garden views. There are 36 bungalows and rooms that run parallel to the Song River offering stunning panoramic views of the Phadeng (Red Cliff), lush forest, and Lao river life. The rooms give an overall rustic mountain feel with tasteful simple décor and teakwood structure. All rooms have modern amenities including the highly sought after bathtub (rarely seen in Laos) and a private terrace. All the riverfront rooms have chase lounges perfect for getting some sun, reading a good book and taking in the sunset surrounded by breathtaking scenery. Along the riverfront are benches and porch swings so if you choose a garden view room you still get a great view of the sunset. If the amazing view isn’t enough to relax you a stroll through the flower and exotic plant filled property sure will. The hotel river front restaurant offers a range of South East Asian and Western cuisine with warm and friendly staff. The included breakfast is basic, but the misty morning mountain view with grazing goats and horses on the opposite bank makes breakfast all that much better. The Thanvansouk isn’t the newest in town, but if it ain’t broke, why fix it?

Rating: Socks Off

Upside: The overall ambience is the beautiful rustic scenery. The entire feel of the property is peaceful nature.

Downside: You could have nature a little closer than wanted with a family of ants trekking through your room.

Insider Tip: During your stay you could meet a Laos celebrity! The daughter of the wonderfully friendly family who owns and runs Thanvansouk is a famous Laos Pop singer, Eluna Thanvansouk. Lao celebrities are not as jaded as our western ones so be sure to ask for an autograph.

Reviewed By: Nicole Long
Date: May 9, 2009… Read more »

The Local's View on their Tourist Town

Every Friday evening I’m reminded that I live in a tourist town. The grocery store is flooded with people shopping for their weekend away, the parking lots and streets are busy and hectic and I tend to curse way more than usual. Then I stop, breathe and look around at my beautiful Lake Tahoe surroundings and remember the days when I used to come up here for the weekend because it is such an amazing place. I am grateful for the locals who welcomed me into their towns to visit and experience their hometown and hope to be a grateful local too.

Working in the tourism industry I realize that when I book a tour to Southeast Asia, I am sending our guests into someone else’s hometown. As locals in the incredible Southeast Asia area, I asked some of our staff to share something about their hometown that only a local would know.

 

Andrea Ross/ Director of Tours / Local in Siem Reap, Cambodia

 

1. If someone visiting your city had one place to visit, where would you suggest they go?

I don’t think I have a lot of choice on this one… it has to be Angkor Wat!

 

2. What is your favorite thing to do in your town?

I love the Old Market. I go and visit Pisey and watch people shop and bargain. I also happen to love my own swimming pool.

 

3. Is there a place in your town tourists do not know about, but you think they should?

Our town has been pretty well documented. The National Museum is new and I don’t think people realize how good it is, it is worth a visit, especially since it has AC!! You can also take a horse ride with Happy Ranch through the countryside, including walking through a temple or two! My aunt and I took a New Years ride on December 31st and it was a blast, a really unique way to see the countryside.

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4. Is there anything you would like to add about the place where you live?

If you’re here, come and visit us J

 

Kwanchanok “Jeab” Meechai/ Bangkok Director / Local in Bangkok, Thailand

 

1. If someone visiting your city had one place to visit, where would you suggest they go?

I would suggest them to go – Patravadi theatre has offers good food and tasty and nice location. Also if whoever interested for the performance they can also do after the meal.

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2. What is your favorite thing to do in your town?

My favourite thing to do in town is taking my dog to get a walk at the weekend at the ministry of public health. There is a lot of dog lover coming to meet up and join the weekend. I have attached my dog’s photo(Shi tsu) So I just think that there are so many foundations here still need helps like the money to support for the dogs and cats who the owner left them behind when they don’t want them anymore or had no time to take care. I know they are unlucky dogs from irresponsibility human but you can visit the link at www.home4animals.org and www.scadbangkok.org perhaps you would like to visit and play with them.

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3. Is there a place in your town tourists do not know about, but you think they should?

I would like them to know Ancient City: There is combined with interesting places of all 4 parts of Thailand there so this trip can take only one day to get to know about Thailand.

 

 

Nicole Long / Laos Director / Local in Luang Prabang, Laos

 

1.  If someone visiting your city had one place to visit, where would you suggest they go?

That is such a hard one!  I would have to say either Kuang Si waterfall or Mt. Phousi at sunset.  They are both natural and beautiful wonders.  As many times as I have seen both I remain in awe.  One extra plus Kuang Si has over Mt. Phousi is that you can take a refreshing dip in the green blue water on a hot day. You really feel like your on a movie set in a tropical jungle and then you realize that you really are (but don’t worry you rarely see any wildlife swimming around with you)!

 

2. What is your favorite thing to do in your town?

To be honest one of my favorite things to do in my town is hang out with local families and absorb their traditions and customs. They are always so welcoming and warm that I feel as if I am at home.  It is always a fun experience when they have reason to celebrate. The celebration is filled with tradition, smiles, food, and a lot of dancing (which I love).   A lot of times it can be a bit overwhelming because you’re the only farang (foreigner) and everyone is watching and taking care of you.  And you are always asked by the older Lao gentlemen of the village to dance.

 

3. Is there a place in your town tourists do not know about, but you think they should?

I don’t know if there is an actual location I think tourists should go, unless they are feeling very adventurous.  Since Luang Prabang is such a small town most tourists just stay in the main part of town and rarely go beyond about a ten block radius.  I think if a tourist really wanted to try authentic food and see how the lao spend their days and evenings then I would suggest to go a little outside of town (honestly you don’t have to go far to get the “real” experience).

 

4. Is there anything you would like to add about the place where you live?

I would only add that I hope when people come to visit Luang Prabang they take a second to really take in the beauty of the surroundings and the people.  To keep in mind that as nice as the main part of town appears, Luang Prabang is still a third world country (one of the poorest in SE Asia).  So be kind and appreciate of all that you receive while visiting and your visit here will be that much more special.  And one helpful hint:  learn a little bit of Laos phrases for your trip. The locals LOVE it when a farang speaks a little Laos, it shows respect. 

 

 

Narla Phuon/ Cambodia Director / Local in Siem Reap, Cambodia

 

1. If someone visiting your city had one place to visit, where would you suggest they go?

I will suggest them to go to Angkor Wat temple becuse it’s a temple that most the people wish to see when they are coming Siem Reap town. Visiting Angkor Wat temple complex it’s not just only the temple that they can see and explore the Cambodia history, but can also see the cocal people selling the sovenir, farmer planting and cuttting rice, understand about our tradition and culture.

2. What is your favorite thing to do in your town?

My favorite thing to do in town is having dinner with friends after the work done.  It’s nice because we all working and no time to see each other, so it’s nice to meet and enjoy food together.

3. Is there a place in your town tourists do not know about, but you think they should?

Kulen Mountain is the places that not have very many tourist go there.  There is a water fall up on the mountain. It’s not a natural site but it’s also an old place that have old temple on top was build by King Jajavaman II in 9th century. Overthere is crowded when Cambodia having the big ceremony but quiet when the cecemony done especially at rainny reason. Tourist can go there to explore about our nature and history tourism.

4. Is there anything you would like to add about the place where you live?

No, this is all have but If I found something that I think it’s good to see  I will suggest people who coming to visit Siem Reap town.Read more »

Serviced Apartments aren’t all business

I have had this blog in my head for years and it is just now, stuck on a bus from Bangkok to Cambodia, that I am putting fingers to keyboard to get the word out. Serviced apartments are fantastic. When I was pregnant with Couper I lived in Bangkok for three months and, wanting something safe for my then one-year-old (yes, my kids are only 15 months apart and yes, I am tired a lot) and myself we rented a serviced apartment. Our original apartment was a one-bedroom at Centre Point, Silom, it had views of the river and was a two minute walk to the skytrain station. Callie and I explored the city from this safe little base and it was where Couper lived for his first few days. Subsquently when I travel back with the kids we stay in various serviced apartments and they are perfect for us, allowing us living space, a kitchen to make snacks and usually two bathrooms.

Callie and Couper enjoy a movie in 'our' apartment
Callie and Couper enjoy a movie in 'our' apartment

Here are some myths about serviced apartments debunked:

Myth 1: They are only available for long stays.

Debunking: Wrong! Service apartments are often able to be booked just like hotels for as many, or as few, nights as you want.

Myth 2: Serviced apartments are more expensive than a hotel because they offer so much more.

Debunking: Wrong! That’s the beauty of them. Usually a one bedroom serviced apartment in Bangkok has a kitchen, a living room, a bedroom and a bathroom and costs less than the Sofitel, Marriott or other hotel offering similar standards.

Myth 3: You then have to clean your own room.

Debunking: Wrong, oh so wrong. Serviced is the key word here. The rooms are cleaned daily and the sheets changed every few days so you get a clean room, but it is better for the environment.

Myth 4: You don’t get the services you do at a hotel.

Debunking: Wrong again! Room service, maid service, IT service, everything the hotels have these apartments have and often the add-ons aren’t expensive. At Siri Sathorn, my new favorite apartments, wireless is free in all rooms and they will call and make appointments for you or call you a taxi if you need to get somewhere. The only service they don’t have is a tour desk, but then again, I can take care of that for you (archive.journeys-within.com)! All the apartments we use have pools as well as gyms and because they have to keep them nice for their full-time guests the gyms are often better than those at the hotels.

Callie enjoying the pool at our serviced aparmtments
Callie enjoying the pool at our serviced aparmtments

Myth 5: We would have to go out for breakfast and there’s no room service.

Debunking: Wrong. At Siri Sathorn and at the Centre Points breakfast is included in the cost of the rooms and is often a very good buffet. They also have room service and it is delicious, some of the best Mango Sticky Rice I have ever had was at Siri Sathorn.

Dinner at Centre Point with Callie (all my friends wrote back when I sent this out and commented on the yummy looking room service. I could have cooked it in my kitchen...I didn't but I could have).
Dinner at Centre Point with Callie (all my friends wrote back when I sent this out and commented on the yummy looking room service. I could have cooked it in my kitchen...I didn't but I could have).

Myth 6: Serviced apartments are in the business district, not near where I want to stay.

Debunking: And finally, wrong! Siri Sathorn is on Sala Daeng road, walking distance to Silom Road and the skytrain. Centre Point, Silom, is next to the ferry dock and Saphan Thaksin skytrain station. Both are walking distance to shopping, restaurants, banks and malls.

The view from my Bangkok apartment
The view from my Bangkok apartment

At Journeys Within we use serviced apartments for families and often older couples as they are amazingly quiet and the staff just go above and beyond for their guests. The only thing a serviced apartment lacks is that Thai feel and can lack a bit of character. I don’t think in every city they’re the right option, but in Bangkok, when there is so much going on just out the door it is nice to have a little peace and quiet and your own space inside.

Couper's first home was two nights in our serviced apartment in Bangkok (and yes, he flew to Cambodia at four days old, but that's another story!)
Couper's first home was two nights in our serviced apartment in Bangkok (and yes, he flew to Cambodia at four days old, but that's another story!)

You can of course book an apartment through Journeys Within Tour Company or I have listed their websites below…

Siri Sathorn Serviced Apartments http://www.sirisathorn.com

Centre Point Serviced Apartments http://www.centrepoint.com… Read more »

Hotel Review: Pavillon d’Orient

First I have to apologize, I am supposed to have my finger on the pulse, but this little gem of a hotel managed to allude me for over a year! However last Monday night Brandon and I had a nice little rendezvous as we checked it out. First things first, it is located in a pretty out of the way place which is why I think I had never noticed it in my wanderings. It is off road number six, but well past Psah Lure and on the back road to the temple. The bad news is that it is a longer drive to get into town. The good news is that the hotel knows this and to make it a little easier they offer complimentary tuk tuk’s from their hotel to town from 6 to 10pm. So really, how can you complain when you can get a free ride. The distance to town is really the only drawback to this hotel, otherwise it is just fantastic! With beautiful gardens that evoke the same oasis quality we are often getting recognized for, the Pavillon feels like a lovely escape as soon as you walk through the front gate. The lobby is open air, and while I do wonder how they handle the rainy season, this time of year it feels cool and serene. The staff were lovely and polite and seemed genuinely happy to be working there. When asked about her boss the front desk woman went on and on about how hard he works and what a good job he does, I think staff loyalty says a lot about a place and they were obviously fans of the manager. The rooms are big with a French feel. The bathrooms have showers and bathtubs and all the rooms have a balcony. The pool is nestled in the gardens and has a lovely waterfall you can hear from the balconies. When I first arrived there was a rather rowdy volleyball game happening across the wall and while I’m all for local ambience it proved to be a bit much for even me, but with the doors closed the noise was shut out and peace and quiet ranged. We had dinner in the restaurant that night and the food was very good, another plus when you’re a little ways from town…just stay in! I had the spaghetti and other had friend rice, curry and ginger chicken, all enjoyed. Breakfast the next morning was also good, though a touch French for meJ I did get some bacon though so I was happy! The final touch was when we checked out we got small necklaces with our Chinese symbol on it. All in all it was a great escape and I am looking forward to having our guests stay.

Rating: Socks Off
Upside: The big airy rooms and the huge bathrooms as well as the personalized service.
Downside: On the other side of town and no restaurants or shopping nearby.
Insider Tip: Tuk tuk’s are free from 6 to 10pm so go in for a night on the town on them. Café Indochine is under the same owner so you get a 10% discount if you eat there!

Pool and Garden
Pool and Garden

Restaurant
Restaurant
Deluxe Room
Deluxe Room
Read more »