Discovering Nong Khiaw, Laos

Is over 400 pictures taken in 3 days too much?

Obviously, one of the greatest rewards of working for a tour company is the opportunity to travel.  I usually allow all other work to take precedence over this job requirement and haven’t been out exploring and tour inspecting in quite some time.  But felt was about time I got out of the office and took advantage of my work!

Recently, a colleague of mine was setting off to the northern part of the Luang Prabang Province with his employees for their annual work trip and invited me along.  They would be going to Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi, two small villages that I have heard great things about from the expats living in Luang Prabang.  Also on the trip they would be staying one night at a homestay at a small village my colleague claims to be his favorite in all of Laos.  According to sources I would be seeing lush limestone cliffs, green rolling hills and valleys, beautiful textiles and quiet riverside village living.  How could I resist such an offer?

So, I set off for three days over a Laos National holiday weekend armed with a couple of the areas experts, bug spray and most importantly, my camera.  I felt pictures would do a better justice summarizing my weekend adventure more than with my words. Now, you tell me if it looked like an adventure worth getting out of the office for…

Driving to Nong Khiaw takes about 3 ½ hours.  The drive is one of most pleasant drives I have ever had in Laos.  The road surprisingly followed the Pak Ou river so the van didn’t have to whip around  or climb to many of the mountains.  The blue skies, rolling hills and endless tribal villages made the 3 ½ hours feel like a breeze.

Picture 1: View of Pak Ou River and the valley from along the road

Picture 2: Textile Indigo sild drying along the road

Picture 3:  Pit stop. One of my favorite traditional houses.

Picture 4:  Blazing green rice fields galore.

After arriving to Nong Khiaw, the only “town” we were to visit over the next three days, I realized why Luang Prabang was considered the big city in Northern Laos.  Nong Khiaw doesn’t have much beyond great views, river shrimp (if in season) and a true small town feel. And that is exactly why I liked it.

Picture 1: Main Steet in Nong Khiaw

Picture 2:  Lucky for me it was the season for river shrimp – yummy lunch

Picture 3:  Quaint Riverside bungalows with great views

Picture 4:  View from bungalow balcony

Picture 5:  She is carrying a 40kilo bag of rice up 100 stairs, in the blazing sun, barefoot and with her head!

Picture 6:  Surrounding mountains at Nong Khiaw

Who doesn’t love boat rides?  I guess some don’t, especially during the rainy season.  But while driving up river you forget about the occasional rapids because of the stunning views along the way.  The 1 ½ boat ride until Sopjam village has been one of my favorite boat rides in Laos thus far.  Because of few villages along the river, much of the landscape hasn’t been touched. The looming limestone cliffs look as if they are going to fall right on top of you. The mountains are overflowing with lush green fauna and tall tropical trees. And majestic blue skies that are so bright you honestly can’t look at them for too long.  I also had the opportunity to see the mountains from the river on foggy, rainy morning when we were returning to Nong Khiaw.  The fog wrapping the mountains and creeping along the river made me feel as if I had dropped into another world.

Picture 1:  Fog wrapping the lime stone cliffs

Picture 2:  It felt as if the fog was following us.

Picture 3:  Nothing like a beautiful day for a boat ride.

Picture 4:  Rolling along…

Picture 5:  Towering white limestone cliffs

Picture 6: Look at that sky!

We finally made it to the village of Sopjam where we would be sleeping in a homestay.  This tiny village on the river of Pak Ou relies heavily on the fish they catch and the textiles they weave..  After only an hour I could see why this was my colleague’s favorite village in Laos.  I’ll let the pictures explain…

Picture 1:   This charming and dusty village is surrounding by mountains and water.

Picture 2:  Fishing boats resting on the still river

Picture 3:  No reason for a bike in this village – piggy back only

Picture 4:  My suite in the village headman’s house

Picture 5:   Sopjam specialty

Picture 6:  The Princesses of Sopjam

Picture 7:  The village waking up – literally at dawn

After an evening we traveled down river to the village of Muang Ngoi.  Muang Ngoi is bigger than Sopjam but still much smaller than Nong Khiaw. Muang Ngoi has some delicious Lao food, great walking/trekking options and cute bungalows.  It’s hard to get lost in this small town but difficult to find your way to bed if you don’t make it there by the 10:00 electricity curfew.  I am so thankful that the moon was at least out to help guide my way!

Picture 1:  The main drag of Muang Ngoi

Picture 2:  American remembrances used as decoration

Picture 3:  View of rice fields and mountains while trekking to the caves

Picture 4:  River Fisherman set with net and spear gun

Picture5:  The crystal clear water from the cave.  It felt as if I was swimming in the fountain of youth!

Picture 6:  The picture doesn’t do justice to the electrifying color of the rice

Picture 7:  Muang Ngoi the Pak Ou River

Picture 8:  Setting sun and rising moon.  Now is not the time to have forgotten my flashlight!

All in all, it was a great trip not too far from home (Luang Prabang).  The traveling was light and with spectacular views.  The villages were charming and peaceful.  And the experience was unforgettable.  It reminded me how much I appreciate the job I have and the country I love to do it in. Can’t wait to go back!