Looking for a fun and easy way to try many of Cambodia’s local delights? One of Siem Reap’s newest ventures is looking to give guests a taste of life in Cambodia at night…
Recent start-up Cambodia Vespa Adventures is combining two Siem Reap staples that visitors are eager to experience — motorbike rides and adventurous eats.
Despite living in Siem Reap, I was shocked by how many new foods I got to test out. While I wouldn’t describe it as a foodie tour per say — much of what you taste is more ingredients than prepared meals — but it was a definite culinary adventure.
From bugs to fruit we sampled it all. While our Country Director Narla pointed at his childhood favourites and popped snails into his mouth by the handful, Anna and I listened as our guide explained the how to properly pull apart a water beetle to eat.
It was lovely to test out local fruits (yes, even durian!) while learning the proper names for some items that I already knew I loved.
The barbeque stall next to the Road 60 fun fair was by far my favourite stop of the tour. We sampled spicy stuffed frog, sweet and sour chicken wings and fresh fish — each as delicious as the next.
Our motto tour took a sweet turn with its final visit of the evening — a stop at Sombai‘s infused rice spirit shop. Rice wine is a tradition in Cambodia, a simple alcohol that is produced both in villages and distilleries. Siem Reap based Sombai has upgraded this bland and sometimes unpalatable local spirit by infusing it with flavour combinations that are sure to please just about anyone. In addition to getting to sample each of their delicious concoctions, owners Joëlle and Lionel set out a tempting platter of traditional rice and palm sugar-based treats to enjoy with our night cap.
Though I wasn’t sampling many of the foods for the very first time I still found the tour educational and above all, tasty. I must admit that riding around on a motto driven by a competent and safe driver was a first for me in my year-and-a-half in Siem Reap — a truly local way to experience the City of Wonder.
Here Nicole gives the low down on two Laos classics — the world of noodle soups and grilled meats. She doesn’t promise that you will like everything on her list, but there is no better time to go out on a limb and try new things than when you travel!
Who: Khao Piak (Cow Peeyak) Noodle Shop
What: Traditional Lao noodle soup called Khao Piak
When: Anytime day or night
Where: Locals each have a favorite shop. Some of the more famous ones in the town center are located across from Wat Sene (only open until a little after noon) or in Ban Khili beside the temple near the end of the peninsula.
Why: You can try this even if you’re not so adventurous and are wary of spice. It is really cheap so even if you aren’t a fan, you can take a couple bites and have only spent $1.50. The soup is usually served with pork (shredded and pork meatballs) and egg.
There are always an array of ingredients on the table you can add to your soup to add more flavor (pepper, sugar, salt, MSG, vinegar, fish sauce, soy sauce, etc.) I recommend you get a rice cracker to crumble and add to your soup.
Who: Grilled Meats Market
What: Meats and fish grilled on bamboo sticks
When: There are some vendors around lunch time (at the T-junction of the Mekong River Road and Kitsalat Rd), but the best time to go is the evening.
Where: Best place to go in the evening is where the morning fresh market is located, behind Wat Mai, close to Kitsalat Rd. You can also venture down the alley on the same block that has vegetarian buffects in addition to these grilling stations. You can squish into a seat amongst other travelers with your fresh off the grill selection.
Why: You have the opportunity to taste fresh local fish and other meats for a reasonable price. It is a relatively safe eating experience since they will grill it to your liking after you have made your selections.
The grilled fish is delicious as it is stuffed with lemongrass and herbs. Be warned that there are a lot of bones you have to get around. If you are adventurous, try the fish eye, as locals find that to be the tastiest part and lucky.
The grilled sour pork (Som Mou) is so bad, yet oh-so good. These little slices of heaven are pretty much 50% meat, 50% fat.
Luang Prabang Sausage is another must try. Each stall will usually have a selections, from sweet to blood sausages. My favorite is the Luang Prabang Sausage (The city is known for their pork sausages throughout the country)
Other good eats are grilled chicken breasts, BBQ chicken, grilled intestines , pickled vegetables and sticky rice.
In addition to tickling your taste buds and filling your belly, your locally sourced meals will support family restaurants and small business owners — a true win-win!
Some travelers find that the best way to experience the destination they visit is to eat authentic and local food.
In Luang Prabang you can easily find Lao cuisine at many restaurants along the main roads in town, but they are usually catered to the westerner palate. You can get the gist of the traditional dishes but it isn’t what the locals usually eat. I will say that when diving into the depths of local fare it does take an open mind, adventurous spirit and a strong stomach. So, this posting isn’t for the conservative and selective eater. Below, you will find my top five favorite spots that are beloved by the Lao and are cheap authentic yummy eats.
Who: Atsalin Restaurant
What: Pan Asian dishes
When: Anytime. Great for a quick bite at lunch or dinner.
Where: Wat Visoun Rd, 5 min. walk away from the temple and near the roundabout
Why: Fast, cheap and delicious Asian eats. It’s the favorite spot for locals and expats.
Fried Rice (Khao Pat)– Vegetable, Chicken or Pork. The best you have ever had.
Pork with Rice (Khao Kha Mou) – Stewed pork served on white rice with green veggies, boiled egg and a savory secret sauce.
Fried Noodles (Khoua Pho)-Fat, white rice noodles with veggies, choice of meat in a flavorful sauce.
Who: Donsavanh Ban Aphai Restaurant
What: Lao Traditional Snacks and Beer Pub
When: Day or Night but best in daylight to see the Nam Khan River
Where: On the Nam Khan River bank down from Lao Lao Garden Restaurant on Kingkitsarath Rd
Why: Restaurant used to be located on an island in the river but has since moved to the bank so that it can serve year round. Previously it was only seasonally open due to flooding of the river. It’s a great spot to sit back and observe the locals while joining in on the fun. Grab yourself a little bungalow picnic table and enjoy the views at Donsavanh.
Meing Padek – Pa Dek (fermented fish sauce) used for dipping your concoction of any ingredients served on an open plate (lettuce, lemongrass, Galangal, eggplant, tomato, cucumber, dill, garlic, pepper, peanut, Lao basil, cabbage, fried pork skin, peanuts and noodles)
Other favorites are dishes that include river fish (grilled, stir fried with veggies, Tom Yum soup).
Who: Nam Khan Riverside Grilled Duck (no actual name)
What: Duck specialties, Lao style
When: Monday-Thursday 4pm-8pm or until the duck runs out
Where: On the Nam Khan river bank, opposite side of peninsula to Mekong Riverview Hotel
Why: This place originally was only a couple tables under some trees in a duck farmer’s yard. It has now grown into one of the hotspots for the after work Lao crowd. People come out in droves every day to enjoy a Beerlao (with ice) and BBQ duck. You have to come early to get a table and before they run out of duck for the day.
BBQ Duck – Duck that has been rubbed in spices and thrown on the grill. It is served with a hot dipping sauce and veggies to cut the spice.
Stewed Duck – Stewed duck with fresh herbs and spices.
Blood Salad – If you’re really feeling adventurous go all out and get the blood salad (served with fresh mint, lime and peanuts).
Not well known internationally, Myanmar food is worth stepping out of your comfort zone to taste. Here, Dar Le gives some of the highlights…
It seems that Myanmar food is not as popular as Thai or Chinese as most tourists to don’t really know much about our food. In most countries you can find Chinese, Thai and Indian restaurants in but not Myanmar restaurant — a real shame! Actually, there are a variety of dishes to choose from, everything from appetizer to traditional desserts.
There are countless tea shops in Myanmar that serve several options for breakfast from Mandalay traditional rice noodle salad to National soup called Monhinkar, a very nourishing bowl of thick fish soup go together with rice noodle. Or you can simply go for steam sticky rice with sprinkled sesame seeds or glass noodle soup with attractive ingredients. Adventurous guests should feel free to eat outside for breakfast with their cup of to tea. Myanmar breakfast noodles are definitely a must try!
Most people prefer lunch and dinner to be home cooked and many restaurants in Myanmar offer home cook style menu. Rice is the staple food of Myanmar, serve together with “curry” as main course along with wonderful vegetable salads as side dishes. Besides, spicy fermented fish sauce come together with assorted vegetables which I would say Myanmar appetizer are essential for every meal.
The salads in Myanmar are totally different to the salads known by the westerners. There are some restaurants that offer only salads but the menu is quite long with many choices.
Burmese salads come in many tasty varieties. How can anyone choose a favourite? Pictured above: Laphet Thohk (pickled tea leaf salad), Lemon Salad (red onions and lemon pulp), Gyin Thohk (pickled ginger mixed salad_, Tofu Thohk (tofu salad), Variation of Lemon Pulp, Tomato and Cabbage Salad.
For example, Inle Lake with floating vegetation, grow tomatoes and is the main supply for the whole country. Green tomato salads are quite famous and the recipe is so simple — a few slices of onion, ground peanuts and thin sliced green tomatoes mixed together with a few drops of salt and oil. In Myanmar this make perfect salads, though our salads can be made out of just about anything as main ingredients.
Our main course known as “curry” may be runnier than westerners expect — it can look like an Indian curry. The taste is totally different though as main ingredients of Myanmar curry are often based on a mix of onion and tomato, while most Indian curry contains a lot of spices as ingredients. Beef curry, chicken curry with potato, sweet pork curry and butter fish curry are quite tasty main courses that can be sampled in Myanmar — all served with rice!
Chicken curry, traditionally served with rice!
After a good meal, it ends with assorted traditional desserts such as fried banana with honey, seaweed jelly with coconut milk, palm sugar sago, traditional banana cake and Burmese ‘semolina’ Cake.
The regional influences of Shan and Rakhine make Myanmar one of the best place to enjoy variety of foods with different but very appetizing tastes. And for those missing a taste of home, there is always the international language of pizza found in every major city!
Where to get some tasty eats in Yangon
Le Planteur (Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd) – This has long been considered one of the best restaurants in town, fusing Myanmar and International cuisine into delectable masterpieces. It is also one of the nicest in town so make sure to dress sharp and prepare for higher prices. Have your guide call and make a reservation and if done far enough in advance then you can book their vintage car for transfers.
Monsoon(Thein Byu Rd) – A favorite among expatriates, it offers a wide range of SE Asian cuisine in a relaxed, cosmopolitan atmosphere. This is a great spot for lunch or dinner but call ahead to make a reservation. They also have a fantastic fair-trade shop upstairs selling local artisan handicrafts.
Feel Myanmar Food (Pyidaungsu Yeiktha St.)This Bamar restaurant is popular with local businessmen and foreign embassy staff. You simply go to the counter and point to the dishes you desire to try (usually someone there to help describe it). The dishes come in small plates so it is common to see a table filled with 10 or more. It’s a fun way to try local cuisine and not have to commit to only one!
Governor’s Residence Myanmar Restaurant (Taw Win Rd) – Many travelers claim this to be one of their favorites. The combination of authentic food, superb service and romantic colonial setting create an all around wonderful dining experience. They have western and Myanmar dishes but the Myanmar dinner buffet is a highlight. They also have a lounge/bar perfect for after dinner cocktail.
In addition, there are two chain restaurants in major hubs that a popular in Mynmar, Feel Myanmar and Green Elephant that offer great option for local dining.
Or, for the best local flavours, let us add a guided tour of 19th Street where creating your own meal is half the experience!… Read more »
One of the main reasons for our trip to the Northeast was to investigate sustainable wildlife opportunities for our guests …
Bob and Onion were the first elephants we laid our eyes on at the Elephant Valley Project. Giant, slow moving and deliberate a group of us watched as they made their way from the jungle into the river for a bath. The entire group was silenced by their presence, even the know–it-all freelance writer anxious to share his views on everything.
Conservation in Asia is a complicated equation. In a perfect world — which is of course an imaginary place — the intrinsic value of animals and ecosystems would always be respected and preserved. Realistically, as Cambodia and neighboring countries look to grow their economies, environmental interests are not alone and are often not prioritized.
While we were visiting the area, it occurred to me that Elephants, in all their glory, embody this modern-day struggle between development and conservation. As majestic as they are — to be in their presence is certainly overwhelming — their value in Asia goes well beyond an intrinsic one.
Currently, the biggest threat against the endangered wild Asian elephant is habitat loss and population fragmentation — there isn’t enough jungle left for them to roam and what is left separates herds with man-made obstacles.
For captive elephants and their owners in Mondulkiri there is an obvious struggle between traditions, economic opportunities and the animal’s welfare.
Looking to find a sustainable and humane elephant experience for our guests, my colleagues and I visited the Elephant Valley Project, a non-government organisation looking to improve the health and welfare of captive elephants.
Regine, and behind her Narla, make their way to Heaven, one of the Elephant Valley Projects elephant areas.
After climbing down to the river, we watched silently as Onion submerge herself completely in the water, like a toddler down by the lake. Bob, less keen on dunking his head, was happy to blow water out of his trunk.
Recognizing that the well-being of the elephants in Mondulkiri depends on the well-being of the neighbouring communities, the Elephant Valley Project is taking a holistic approach to protection. Beyond providing a jungle sanctuary for the dozen or so elephants that are currently residents, the organization funds rangers to protect local parks, provides healthcare for the neighbouring village and offers training for mahouts looking to take better care of their elephants. Looking to alleviate poverty on a wider scale — the less desperate people are the better nature fares — the NGO is looking at extending their health coverage to include more villages.
While it remains to be seen how successful the Elephant Valley Project will be with their future outreach, there was something unique about the elephant experience they offer. They don’t allow riding, in fact interaction with the elephants is limited. What they do offer is an opportunity to see elephants in as natural an environment as could be created. The rescues create small herds, talk to each other and act like, well elephants. Having seen elephants throughout Asia, either chained up or walking in circles with a basket loaded with tourists, it was fascinating to see them in their element.
Elephant ownership is a tradition among the Bunong, the ethnic minority that inhabit the area around the sanctuary. Pachyderms have been caught and used throughout the region as work animals for generations. Once used for logging and construction, the aging animals are now being passed down to the next generation of owners whose knowledge of animal care and interest in the beasts is increasingly diluted; poverty-stricken children and grandchildren of original owners share the stake in what income the animal can produce.
While elephants are still being used for the odd logging job, there is increasing pressure on the animals to turn a profit, causing some families to look to the tourism industry as a money maker.
In Pulung village, we met a woman whose family was one of about twenty with shared ownership of a 55-year-old elephant. The elephant, once used in logging, was no longer needed in the forest and the families were struggling to care for the elephant on their meager income.
We were told the elephantsroam free until they are booked for a tour — one that includes walking the elephant to a local watering hole and giving it its daily bath. Upon having a tour booked, the elephant’s mahout would go into the jungle and collect the animal. Unlike the Elephant Valley Project, the Bunong do let guests ride the elephants for portions of the trek. Initially we were told that guests could only ride bareback, but later we saw evidence that baskets are still used. (Despite the size of the animal, it is not good for an elephant to carry heavy weight on its spine.)
While there was little doubt among my colleagues and I that the conditions weren’t ideal for the elephants, it was equally important for us to note that things weren’t much better for the community. Part of an ethnic minority, the Bunong have been relocated and forced to adapt to modern life. Living in small villages on the outskirts of Sen Monorom, they see little benefits from local tourism and even less investment in infrastructure from the government.
The community also seem to come to term with the fact that this would be the last generation to own elephants as the Bunong don’t breed their captive elephants. Baby elephants bred without the proper, very expensive, ceremony are believed to be bad luck and most of the captive elephants in the north are of an advanced age.
The pace and scale of development in Cambodia’s Northeast is having drastic effects of conservation efforts, not just for elephants. In Mondulkiri rubber plantations, road construction, mineral mining and logging are among the many interests vying for a piece of the same environmental pie. For the elephant’s sake, and ours, I sure hope there is enough to go around or that people learn to take less.
