There are some places that never lose their charm, and as Holly found out, Luang Prabang is one of them…
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I’m going to stick my neck out here and say that Luang Prabang is most atmospheric and tranquil town in Indochina. Retaining much of its original rustic charm and nestled below a range of low hills where the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers merger, this place is little short of magical. Add to this some of the most beautiful and authentic temples in the region and swarms of monks and you have a winning recipe for a tourist destination.
This was not my first visit to Luang Prabang. Working as a tour leader in Southeast Asia during the early 2000s I have probably been through here a dozen times. So why did I return again last week after a break of 10 years? Well it was partly nostalgia but I also had a plan to photograph a viewpoint south of the town. Sadly, due to haze, the photographic project didn’t work out, but the visit to Luang Prabang itself was an unmitigated success.
I was a little nervous on arrival. It can be heart-breaking to see places you hold dear become over commercialized and developed but in this case I needn’t have worried. Luang Prabang, although now a popular tour destination, is still very low key and charming. In many ways it has been improved with the tasteful renovation of traditional properties into hotels and cafes. The freshly paved and well-kept streets are also a nice touch! Of course the wonderful temples remain as they have for, in some case, hundreds of years — enchanting as ever.
There are many things to do outside Luang Prabang including boat trips up the Mekong to local villages, the Pak Ou Caves and the wonderful Kuang Si waterfalls. I spent more hours than I would probably wish on the river during my tour leading days and at the end of the dry season the falls are rather dry so most of my time on this trip was spent just soaking up the Luang Prabang vibe. Photographing the temples, sitting in cafes watching monks go by and strolling along the banks of the Mekong made it an absolute joy to be back!
On my final evening I had one last treat waiting for me: meeting the staff at Journeys Within Laos. A very pleasant evening was spent eating Lao style BBQ and drinking Beer Lao: a fitting end to a memorable visit. So if you are planning a trip to Indochina make sure not to miss out on Luang Prabang.