Myanmar is a predominantly Buddhist country and like its neighbours Laos, Cambodia and Thailand is synonymous with robe-clad Buddhist monks. Despite this entrenched belief system, Myanmar has another, older religion …
Related Posts
Before Buddhism arrived in Myanmar an animistic belief system was practiced centered around the worship of nats or spirits. There are two types of nats: the 37 Great Nats, almost all of whom were human beings who met with violent deaths and have been elevated to a form of sainthood, and common nats, often unnamed beings who are the spirits of things like trees, rivers 0r mountains.
Nats have human characteristics, wants, and needs. They are flawed beings, having desires considered petty and immoral in mainstream Buddhism. “If you don’t like me, avoid me, I am a drunkard” are the words that greet you at the entrance to the shrine dedicated to Lord Kyawswa, one of the nats revered in the Bagan region.
Many modern Burmese would say that nat worship is merely superstition and tend to downplay its role in society; nevertheless there is evidence to suggest that the belief in these spirits acts to some extent as a deterrent against environmental destruction.
Sometimes described as the ‘Mount Olympus of Myanmar’, Mount Popa, an extinct volcano which hosts numerous nat temples and shrines on its slopes, is the most important nat pilgrimage site in Myanmar. Near its base can be found Taung Kalat, a volcanic plug topped by a Buddhist monastery and nat shrine. Visitors can climb the 777 steps to its summit, but beware of the many feisty monkeys en route and remember to follow the local edicts whilst on the mountain: do not wear red, black or green, do not carry meat with you (especially pork) and try hard not to think bad thoughts about others!
Mount Popa can be visited as a day trip from Bagan, but an overnight stay at the Popa Mountain Resort is highly recommended if you wish to really get a feel for this magical and uniquely Burmese place.
Non-ordained, hermit monks dressed in tall, peaked hats, called yetis can occasionally be seen around Mount Popa. Yetis use walking as a meditational tool and are usually observed sauntering slowly and thoughtfully. If you are lucky you may even run into a yeti during your visit!