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Thailand Update — Three months into the coup

Posted by Andrea on (Updated: )  |  Leave a comment

It has been three months since the military took over control of Thailand, so where is the country now? Here we take at the current state of affairs in the Land of Smiles …

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Things in Asia are rarely as simple as they seem and the coup that took place in Thailand in May is no different.  While the Western media sensationalized the military presence, the reality of the situation on the ground is much more complicated.

After six months of widespread protests, marred by random outbreaks of violence, the military take-over was welcomed by some in Bangkok. Since the coup, the camps of protesters have been cleared, the random acts of violence have ceased and Lumphini Park has been restored and returned to the public. In an attempt to garner support the military have also been cracking down on corruption in Bangkok, as well as targeting corruption on the island of Phuket. They have also cleared the island of illegal sun loungers and beach businesses — a move welcomed by most visitors.

Country-wide they have been enforcing laws that the police department have systematically ignored for some time. Taxi mafias, lumber smugglers and those carrying weapons have all been targeted by military operations. This means that in some ways the situation is actually vastly improved over the protests we saw 3 months ago.

That said, the recent bout of law enforcement has come at a cost to local residents who have seen their freedoms erode. While the military has been getting the public face of Thailand in order they have also been quashing dissenting opinions behind the scenes. Journalists, academics and pro-democracy activists have been arrested, threatened and temporarily detained since May, as the junta looks to maintain control.

Gatherings of more than 5 people are still banned and the military is keeping a tight leash on the freedom of the press.

The military has set October 2015 as the next hypothetical election date and it looks like they plan to continue with their happiness campaign — a public relations campaign that looks to improve their image — until election time.

In the meantime, the markets have responded to the current stability and tourism is bouncing back in the Land of Smiles. As military coups are nothing new in Thailand, life has gone on seemingly with little notice to the much-hyped coup.

So how are things in Thailand? To steal a regional phrase: the same same but different.

 … Read more »

Meet Southeast Asia tour consultant, April

Posted by Andrea on (Updated: )  |  1 Comment

Meet one of the corner stones of Journeys Within Tour Company — our lovely Tour Consultant, April. In addition to being an amazing wife and mother of two, April is an intrepid traveler who finds that great food, life lessons and the quest for chocolate guides her …

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Working out of our office in Truckee, California, April turns the hopes and dreams of our guests into customized tours of a lifetime. Over the last seven years with Journeys Within, she has traveled through Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Myanmar in search of the kind of experiences that enrich and enlighten. Here she talks about what travel means to her, traveling with kids and how travel has helped her grow…

What does your position at JW entail?

I’ve worn a lot of hats in the years that I’ve been with JW, but right now my day to day is pretty focused on tour consulting. I work with our guests to design their itineraries. When someone calls and says that they want to go to Cambodia or Thailand or both, I talk with them to learn more about their interest, their personal travel style and budget. Then I use my knowledge of the region to put together a tour itinerary that really fits them. We then work together to fine tune the itinerary until its perfect. After the guest and I decide the tour is right I work with our teams in Southeast Asia to make the bookings.

Why do you choose to travel?

Not to get cheesy, but I choose to travel because it makes me a better person. Travel allows the opportunity to learn about the world and people on so many different levels, and I don’t feel you can really learn and grow with out going out and experiencing the world first hand.

What parts of SE Asia have you been to?

I’ve travelled to Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and Burma. Having travelled to Southeast Asia every year for the past seven years, I’ve had the wonderful opportunity to see so much of the region. Still it is remarkable how many places I still have on my wish list! I’ve been to the highlights and many off the beaten path locations within each country. I’m excited to continue exploring Southeast Asia as there are always wonderful surprises, as well as the comforts of returning to my favorite locations.

What has been your most challenging travel experience in SE Asia?

I’m really lucky that I always travel to Southeast Asia with Journeys Within. Because of that, travel has been relatively easy. I’m always picked up at the airport and always feel I have a friend and resource in country. So the logistics of the trip and the day to day exploring have never been challenging. What I’ve found the most challenging traveling experience in Southeast Asia has been finding chocolate. I really do get sad when I want a piece of dark chocolate and there is just none to be found anywhere! On the more serious side, taking the time to be less self involved while traveling and trying to really be aware of the local customs and culture  can be hard. You have to put in the effort to conduct yourself in a way which reflects the local customs and culture though they aren’t what you are used to.

Favourite travel memory?

On a horseback ride through the countryside in Siem Reap. We went there with our JW Team, and our JW Jr. Team, which consists of all the children of the staff. My son was about 6 years old when we went on this tour together. He had never been horseback riding, so it was fun that he got to say that his first time riding a horse was in Cambodia. It was a beautiful afternoon and we were riding through a part of Siem Reap I had never been before, and just that would have been enough to make it a very special memory.

favorite travel memory

But when we stopped at the temple and all the kids got off their horses and started playing on and around the temple, my favorite travel memory was formed. Gavin and Cooper (Andrea’s son and Gavin’s best friend), were climbing the temple ruins and they were pretending the temple was Buddha’s last resting place. Then they started talking about the Khmer Rouge and how a battle took place there, but that Buddha had marked the temple as a safe structure. They ran around for about an hour hiding from the incoming troops, and trying to find relics of Buddha, while I sat back and enjoyed an ice cold soda and just watched how much fun they were having. While their sense of history was wildly incorrect, the fact that two 6 year old American boys were climbing on a temple in Cambodia, discussing Buddha and the Khmer Rouge, moved me. These are the things that only travel can give you. The things these boys are learning isn’t from books, it’s from exploring and it will always leave a very special memory in my heart.

Your favourite property in SE Asia?

I’m completely spoiled, I’ll be the first to admit it. Song Saa Private Island is my favorite property in SE Asia. Read my previous blog for more detail.

Favourite dining experience?

I have three favorite dining experiences which are all completely different so I’ll share each of them.

1- “The Bagan Feast”. When we were in Bagan our lovely guide Jo Jo asked us if we’d like to try some local food and of course our answer was a resounding yes! In the span of about an hour we were served 33 different dishes! He said that in the days of the king they would serve him 330 dishes nightly and the Bagan feast is a local way to honor the king’s tradition. But what I really loved was trying all of the local dishes and how much Jo Jo enjoyed explaining each dish and the history around the dish, and sharing his personal stories of the Bagan Feasts he’s had with his family.

2 – Song Saa in room movie experience. The first night we arrived at Song Saa Private Island they had made note that we were traveling with two young children and they asked if they could arrange something special for us that evening. When we came back into our villa after a day of exploring the island we arrived to an in villa movie theater arranged just for us. Along with a popcorn bar (which had about 5 different types of popcorn) and some kid friendly dinner plates with pasta and veggies. Throughout the showing of  Kung Fu Panda, the servers brought in three courses of a beautiful five-star quality sea food meal, but it was served in the comfort of our lounge area while we snuggled with our kids and watched the movie. After our meals we each designed our own ice cream sundaes.

3. Nang Gin Kui. I had the pleasure of attending one of the weekly join dinners at Nang Gin Kui – the #1 Bangkok Restaurant on TripAdvisor and home of Florian Gypser. At first I was a bit hesitant as it would be a small group of 7 other diners at a restaurant set up in a local’s apartment. I had heard of the amazing food and atmosphere at the restaurant, but I wasn’t sure if that would still be as amazing if I felt shy around a bunch of strangers. The host of dinner, Florian, was great at starting conversation with the group and really had a magnificent way of knowing when to start up conversations and when to simply let people be. He also made sure your glass was always full. Each of the 12 courses were prepared and served perfectly, and I really enjoyed the “de ja vu” courses – a.k.a. a second helping of the best bites! The group was made up of ex-pats from America, Italy and travelers from Iran and Australia — there was a lot of interesting conversation and laughter. The dinner took place when there was a midnight curfew in Bangkok and although the dinner started early that night, 6pm, we were all rushing to taxis at about 5 minutes to midnight like Cinderella leaving the ball. It was a very unique and special experience and I highly recommend adding it to trip to Bangkok.

Do you have a memorable guest?

We’re really lucky here at JW as our guests are all pretty remarkable. I feel like there’s a type of person that chooses to travel with us and they tend to choose to travel with us because they’ve done a lot of research and they want to work with a company that supports the local communities and a company with a personal knowledge of the region. Guests who do that much research care about where they are going and how they are making an impact when they travel, and working with people like that is always a pleasure.

A few memorable guests are Edna and Steve Kornberg. They travelled with us in 2010 and they were so enthusiastic about their trip to Southeast Asia and when they returned home they said it was “the trip of a lifetime”. I’m now working on a second trip for them as they’re heading to another part of the region. They are so kind and really want to get to know the people and give back to the communities in these regions.

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Have you ever traveled with your kids?

I have absolutely traveled to Southeast Asia with my kids. I’ve traveled with my son when he was 2, actually he turned 2 while we were in Thailand, and again when he was 6. I’ve also traveled with my daughter when she was just 18 months old. I’ve listed out some ups and downs of traveling with my kids below:

  • The down:

Kids like to take breaks and nap.

  • The up:

Kids like to take breaks and nap! It’s amazing to take the time to slow down and relax and take breaks while you’re traveling. What you discover in that down time, with the opportunity to reflect on what you’ve seen in the day. It’s also nice to take that down time for yourself every once in a while.

  • The down:

Traveling with a kid in diapers is messy!

  • The up:

At least you’re staying in hotels and eating in restaurants so you aren’t cleaning up diapers and a messy house!

  • The down:

It’s a 24 hour of traveling from the US to Southeast Asia.

  • The up:

You’re forced to get up and walk around the plane instead of binging on the entire Glee series with no break to even stand up. Also, you appreciate how well behaved your kids can be.

  •  The down:

They won’t remember all the details of this incredible trip.

  •  The up:

What they do remember, is the experiences with new friends, trying new things, learning something about other cultures, and the time that you spent with them.

Any tips for parents travelling SE Asia with kids?

The most important tip I can give for parents traveling with their kids is to go with the pace of your children, plan less and be open to changes. I find that you’re heading all the way to the other side of the world and you don’t know if you’ll be making this trip again so there’s a lot of pressure to fit everything in, but when you travel with your kids they move at a slower pace at times or things happen and you need to head back to your hotel, so you may miss that museum or temple you had on your list. Take extra time in each location to allow for flexibility, and don’t be upset if you have to skip something or head out early. Really take the time to enjoy exploring with your children, you’ll see and experience so much more viewing the world through their eyes than what any guide book could ever show you!!

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Bring two sets of extra clothes and shoes in your carry on. Kids are messy, and it’s inevitable that if they make enough of a mess to have their clothes changed once — they’ll probably do it twice!

Allow your kids to do a part of the trip planning, give them a half a day that is something they planned. It gives them something to be excited for and gives them pride when the rest of the family enjoys that portion of the trip.

Pack a wet bag. This is my favorite kid product ever and every parent should travel with one. They are designed for diapers, but they are perfect for holding clothes that have gotten messy or wet swim suits.

Pack a first aide kit, with Tylenol and allergy meds. While you’re on tour if your kids get sick Journeys Within can get your kids to the doctor if needed or get you to a local pharmacy, but I find it reassuring to have the things for minor sickness or an allergic reaction easily accessible in my own first aide kit.

Bring snacks from home. While I think your kids should try local foods and experience the culture, sometimes it’s nice to have a quick snack on hand that is comforting. I find granola bars and fig newtons to be easy to travel with and a perfect little blood sugar booster for kids.

Andrea gave me this list when I was taking my first trip with my then 2 year old son and it’s still a great reference.

How has traveling changed you?

It’s opened my eyes to different cultures, giving me the desire to learn more and to be more respectful of the different ways of life and the different points of view individuals have. I’ve brought that back to my everyday life, really opening my eyes to how everyone approaches life a little differently, and seeing that as a really great thing. Travel reminds me a lot of school. Every time you travel you learn so much, and in learning more you realize how much more you have to learn. It’s a beautiful cycle really.

Travel has also helped me to slow down. You want to see and experience, and sometimes that means just sitting down and watching the boats slowly float down the Mekong river, or catching the sunrise at Angkor Wat, or playing a game of cards. It’s not about how many things you can get done in one day, it’s the quality of the experience. I do try to remember that and bring it home with me — although, the amount of coffee I consume makes it hard to slow down sometimes!

Travel has allowed me to appreciate all that I have. And I don’t just mean that about the roof over my head, and the ability to get clean drinking water from a faucet – but it has made me appreciate those things. The quality of my life is really high, in health, family, my job, and the opportunities I’m afforded. Real wealth has nothing to do with income and because I’ve traveled I feel I can see that easier and I realize just how much I have.… Read more »

Coup, Coup, Kachoo: the situation in Thailand

Posted by April on (Updated: )  |  3 Comments

It’s dejavu all over again! Seven years ago I turned on CNN and was informed that a coup was taking place in Bangkok, Thailand. This wouldn’t be strange except I was IN Bangkok and had no idea it was happening. While generally the idea of a coup brings images of balaclavas and political figures being lined up and shot, Thailand has a different approach, and over the years they’ve perfected the peaceful coup.

Here are the details:

  • Curfew imposed from 10 p.m. until 5 a.m. that applies to everyone until further notice. The curfew applies to all of Thailand and as of now they are enforce it in major centres. Airports are open as usual. There is a list of exceptions to the curfew like travellers en-route to destinations – people should keep their passports and flight tickets at hand for check points.
  • people traveling to work, in need of medical attention, etc. are also exempt from curfew. It also states that “people who happen to have urgent or important errands during the curfew hours are advised to ask for permission from military officers near their homes.”
  • Academics are against the move and arranging gatherings, as are people in Chiang Mai. The linked article has some good history and insight. Under Martial Law gathering of more than 5 people are not allowed.
  • Shopping Malls and public transportation both closed early tonight. This may continue.
  • They have dispersed both the government supporter (Red Shirts) and the anti-government (Yellow shirts, Royalists) camps in Bangkok. The Red shirts are regrouping outside the city.

While this all sounds rather dramatic, the truth is that as per usual in Bangkok, life goes on and in a lot of ways, things are looking up. The Yellow and Red shirts have been locked in a political battle for years so with the military stepping in those two sides are forced to take a much needed respite and hopefully think over their actions. It also means that the protest sites that have been messing with traffic for months are no more!

As with my earlier post, I don’t mean to sound blasé, I take my guests safety very seriously, but for now Thailand is still a safe place to travel.

Here is Nicole’s perspective, as she is currently based in Bangkok:

“Yes, the curfew has gone into place. I still see many cabs and such out but city is extremely quiet. They will not be able to enforce this completely as people do have to travel to and from work. Check points will be around the city, mostly in noted areas. We still have full internet and international broadcasting stations. Feeling amongst the people I came in contact with today were in support of this and thought it was a good idea. They are in really good spirits and going on like normal. They have not expressed any fear or worry. Even today the only people who were worried were ones contacting me from outside of the country because of the international media going crazy.

Of course this is definitely a serious issue and hopefully one that won’t erupt into more violence than there has been. I understand the impulse to worry or question traveling to Thailand but all I can say is that so far from what I see, things are relatively normal in the main areas, military and police are stationed, but are just present and nothing is happening. People stop to take selfies with them!” Nicole Long from Bangkok, Thailand.

So I respect that there will be worries about going to Thailand in the coming months, but I can honestly say that this wouldn’t deter me at all and I would happily head back to Bangkok with my kids and enjoy the adventure. Actually, that sounds pretty good…

-Andrea… Read more »

Thailand declares Martial Law

Posted by April on (Updated: )  |  Leave a comment

They’re at it again…

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Thailand military has declared martial law and word is there is now a military presence in the Capital. Of course the Western media is having a field day with this and while I don’t want to sound blasé…been there, done that! I was in Bangkok for the coup in 2006 and was there earlier this year to check out the protests and the term anticlimactic doesn’t even begin to cover it.

While I believe in caution and safety and our office in Thailand is always being vigilant about our guests well-being, I think all of us can say that we are getting a little tired of the Thai government and their perpetual issues! Here is the perspective from Nicole, who is currently based in Bangkok overseeing our Thailand office:

“Of course they have been exaggerating everything! Since I have been here, none of the protests have disturbed anything much.  Like I said before, the feeling on the street is not of worry, no one thinks they are going to a civil war.
The Thai military have been asking the media to stop sensationalizing the actual event. Yes, they are declaring martial law at this point because the red shirts regrouped earlier this month. The two camps are not near each other. They are using precaution at this time. They have closed some of the streets but that is because they expect peaceful protests.

The military has said they will explain the conditions of the martial law today at 2pm.  This will likely have a curfew but we are not sure. I will keep you posted.”

Subsequent to this message we received the following update:

-Military has introduced martial law – This basically means that the military, a separate entity from the government, has taken control of the security. There was no curfew imposed as of military meeting this afternoon.

The good news about this: They are keeping a tighter leash on both protest camps. Protesters are confined to their separate camps and it is likely that further restriction will be imposed on them regarding their roving rallies. This will hopefully reduce the number of violent outbursts at protest sites.

The bad news: Having stripped the government of most of its security powers some are looking at this as one step towards a coup. The military has stated that this isn’t the case.

As of today we at Journeys Within suggest that all trips move forward as planned and if you were considering Thailand, ask us about specials, there are sure to be some good deals now that the media is scaring people away.

And so you can see just how seriously the Thai locals are taking the situation:

http://news.yahoo.com/thailands-martial-law-gives-rise-selfies-054022768.html

Best,

Andrea… Read more »

Bangkok Protest Update — Andrea hits the city streets

Posted by Andrea on (Updated: )  |  1 Comment

Andrea heads into the heart of Bangkok to get a sense of the unrest for herself…

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Since the protests began January 13th I’ve been getting daily updates from my team in Bangkok and have developed a good sense of the day to day changes and developments of the demonstrations.

For the last 10 years, whether it was a tsunami, a military coup, an airport shutdown, a mall on fire or flooding throughout the city, I haven’t had to rely on daily updates and instead have been able to report back to my guests from Southeast Asia. I decided that this latest development deserved the same treatment. So here I am, staying in downtown Bangkok and seeing the demonstrations with my own eyes. For the last few days I’ve visited the protests in the morning, mid day and in the evening, gauging the different climates and chatting with different participants trying to figure out if there is an end in sight and if this is a situation I need to approach with caution or merely awareness.

My assessment for the moment is that these protests have very little impact on the visiting tourist. While the media has some rather dramatic photos of road blocks and angry faces, the real picture is much more relaxed and in fact the word “festive” comes to mind. Due to road blocks at the Silom/Lumphini intersection Silom road, one of the main thoroughfares is closed down, but this is Bangkok and no space will ever go to waste so almost overnight stalls have been erected up and down the street. Selling food, clothes, trinkets and the obligatory “Bangkok shutdown” memorabilia, the city’s retail entrepreneurs are out in force. Walking down Silom Road browsing and shopping it’s easy to forget that the gatherings are due to political unrest.

The sky train and metro continue to run on schedule and traffic is actually no worse than usual as most Bangkok locals head to public transit to avoid the road closures. Getting in a taxi that doesn’t know the roads can be a hazard as detours wind around protest sites, but if you stick to public transit you have nothing to worry about.

While we have been recommending guests stay in river front hotels, I didn’t take my own advice, wanting to be in the thick of it. Choosing the amazing Four Seasons and the modern and chic Sofitel So, I have had direct views of the protest site from my room, but generally “the thick of it” was actually fairly anticlimactic.

This weekend marks the planned elections put on by the current government. Everyone I talked to felt that if there was going to be violence this would be the time. With that said, the numbers of protestors appear to be dwindling and I did not get a sense of a large push to get numbers back up. I will stay in Thailand through the elections to see what happens and judge for myself if guests should be heading to Bangkok. The next few days will give everyone a better idea of what is to come in Thailand.

My initial reaction is that this is Bangkok being Bangkok and through tsunamis, coups, protests and floods, life goes on and the risk and impact to tourists is minimal. As long as the situation stays as it is now then I encourage my guests to visit as planned!

As always, this is Andrea, reporting live from the Land of Smiles !

 … Read more »