Dear Inappropriately-Dressed-European-Women in Phuket,
I wanted to write and thank you, this week you helped me teach my children an important lesson. You see, my children tend to point at people that amaze and disgust them. In Cambodia where women rarely show their legs, let alone their boobs, we very rarely get to work on our No Pointing Rule. Here in Phuket though you have allowed us to really sink our teeth into this parenting thing. For instance, Inappropriately-Dressed-European-Woman with your boobs out by the pool, my daughter pointed and said, “Mommy, that lady doesn’t have a top on.” This was the perfect opportunity to explain that pointing is not appropriate, even if someone is missing their shirt. I also want to thank the lady in the striped shirt with cut out pieces in it…bravo for inappropriate, my daughter thought that was yucky and she pointed so I would know what she was referring to, again, I explained the no pointing lesson. So Inappropriately-Dressed-European-Women, even though this is a Buddhist country and thus conservative in nature, I applaud you for cultural disregard and appreciate your lack of shame, this week it has served a purpose and furthered a cause.
The victory I experienced this morning belongs to all of us…at breakfast Callie turned to me and whispered, “Mommy, there is a lady behind you and I can see her boobs and her fat tummy and I’m not pointing.” Lesson learned.
Thank you,
Andrea
PS. Now that the lesson has been learned, hows about we put some clothes on hmmm??… Read more »
We first went to Phuket in 2003 and fell in love with the people, the food and the beaches. I think backpacking through a place first gives you a very different impression and we have loved Phuket from basic to top-of-the-line.
We returned to Phuket in 2004 to get married. We had an amazing week with our best friends going kayaking, taking a cooking class, going diving and just enjoying adventures. At the end of the week we got married on Kata Nui Beach at the Kata Thani Beach Resort, it was magical.
Our Sunset WeddingGood luck lanternsOur wedding party
Callie and I headed to Phuket in 2006 when I was pregnant with Couper. We had a fun girls only trip and enjoyed the beach and just hanging out.
Callie on Kata BeachOut to dinner in Phuket
In 2007 John Walsh, then our JWOC director, ran the Phuket marathon and we all went to cheer him on. It was a fun time in Phuket with Barrett, our then Bangkok director, John, Brandon, Callie and by then, Couper!
John after the Phuket Marathon
Cool Callie
Couper in his sand holeThe family in Phuket June 2007
And here we are today. We loved our 2009 Phuket adventure. The Amari Hotel was great and it was nice to be back in paradise…
Callie woke up on Sunday saying she was itchy. Strange since mosqitos haven’t been bad, but not that unusual. Then she got itchier…there were no mosquitos, we looked again, yup, chicken pox. The day before our family vacation was to begin and she had chicken pox!
I frantically wrote my nurse friend (thank you Ellie) between the tears while doing searches on chicken pox… “chicken pox on vacation”, “chicken pox and swimming”, “chicken pox and the beach”. They all said the same thing..my kid, and therefore I, was going to be miserable for 10 to 12 days. Perfect.
We thought about cancelling. Then we remembered that despite our advice to guests we didn’t have travel insurance. We decided n0t to cancel. I wrote my mom. She explained that she had taken us camping when we had the chicken pox and hadn’t my kids been vaccinated? Ummm, yes. M0re internet searches… Turns out if you’ve been vaccinated you can still get them, but usually a milder case. We left our vacation hopes and dreams on that internet search and packed our bags.
The next morning we set off. Callie and I listened to music in the back – Sound of Music, High School Musical and Grease…we sang along.
Couper just ate for three straight hours.
It wasn’t great, but we told Callie and Couper to be thankful because this is how we got to Cambodia before they were born…
We arrived at the border and Callie crossed into Thailand in style…
One more very long car ride and we made it to Bangkok where Callie settled in no problem. She very astutely said, “Now we’re the guest in this hotel, like people the guest at our house”…
The next morning was root canal morning…not as bad as I had expected and it cost $100…I know I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again, I love Bangkok!!
This morning we were up at 530am and checking in by 7.
Couper was all business despite still being in his pj’s
We are now happily ensconsed at the Amari Coral Beach Reosrt, Phuket. Our room has an ocean view and the pool is the perfect temperature!
Oh, and the chicken pox are gone, so here’s to rough starts and happy endings. We love Phuket thiiiiis much…
I always loved the episodes of Sex and the City where Carrie fell in love with her city. They were always so perfect, even at times, in their imperfection. I have never felt that kind of love for a city, I mean I have felt nostalgic and warm in London at Christmas, I have felt hip and blond in LA, I have felt edgy and interesting at a book reading in San Francisco, but I have never truly loved a city…until today. Today I loved Bangkok. I loved it not because it was perfect, but because today it was perfect for me. I think, like Carrie, to find that love you have to be on your own, have to be open to loving something because you aren’t surrounded by kids, husbands or friends. With no distractions, I spent a day with Bangkok.
It started with a taxi ride to Samitivej Hospital (doesn’t sound good so far I know). I had to get a root canal and I was scared. But the taxi driver took to the back way (is there any other way in Bangkok??). We went down a street selling only photos of the Royal Family, another that only sold monk paraphanelia: orange robes flapped out the doorways and alms bowls gleamed from inside.
At the hospital my dentist spoke perfect English and went through what would happen and why I didn’t need to be as scared as I was. An hour later it was done (except for that appointment in March where they do more drilling, but no need to dwell on that!).
My excema has come back so I stopped at the skin clinic where I didn’t have an appointment, I was seen within 30 minutes and another doctor with flawless English told me to take Vitamin B, use a new ointment she had and reduce my stress (I promised I would do two of the three).
Back on the Bangkok streets I took a taxi to downtown. I love the taxis in Bangkok, with the AC blasting it’s a cool cocoon trundling through ridiculously bad traffic. With kids and husbands this traffic is painful, but today it was a moving performance, each block we stopped was a new scene in motion with me as the audience.
I was dropped at MBK where I took escalators to the 4th floor and the Big Cut Salon and Spa. No fancy music here or smells of frangipani, but once the cucumber is on your eyes and the masks are being put on and taken off the dingy walls feel a million miles away.
Inside MBK at Siam Square
A facial and eyebrow wax later I headed to the food court on the 5th floor. There I tried the new concept restaurant by Oishi. A take on Benihana you sit at a bar as they cook the food in front of you. Perfect for a party of one on a date with the world. My steak was perfect and I had in-meal entertainment as others came and their lunch too was prepared in front of us.
My delicious lunch and the chef in Bangkok
After lunch it was back to the salon for a haircut and color and now to the best surprise of the day. At each hair cutting station, a computer with games, movies and, wait for it, internet! I gleefully wrote Brandon that I was getting my personal to do’s and my work to do’s done at the same time. He didn’t appreciate the perfection of that moment for me.
Getting my hair done while I worked, my idea of perfection!
Hair back to blond and me up to date on email I headed to the new Bangkok Art and Culture Center, across the street from MBK and Siam Square. I loved the cool of the building, the hippness of it all, but still with a sense of Thai history. Nothing Bangkok does seems to loose its roots. Because it was never colonized I feel that Bangkok has always been allowed to be itself and though it has changed and developed it never lost the traditions and weight of it’s past. Even in a brand new museum with a modern design you feel the presence of the Royal Family and the history of Thailand in its very foundation.
After the gallery I headed to Siam Paragon to look for some books for JWOC, unfortunately they didn’t have them, but I browsed the aisles flipping through history, art and guidebooks. I was interrupted in the middle of my browsing by thousands of screaming fans out the window. It turned out that Oiki? Or Odidi, or some Thai celebrity was making an appearance that day in the Square and the teeny boppers had turned out in force. O-whatever didn’t look as impressed as I think most men would be to see thousands of Thai schoolgirls screaming their names, his cool factor was off the chart…ripped jeans, a shirt off one shoulder and spiky hair. There was a moment of nostalgia…whatever did happen to New Kids On the Block?!? And where is my old school uniform?
My movie started at 730pm and I was surrounded by Thais on dates and just out for the night with friends. Boys and girls packed in to see Confessions of a Shopaholic. In Thailand, before any movie, a tribute to the king is played and everyone stands. I always get chocked up over this reverence to the King. It must be nice to believe in and love something this strongly. While their political views do differ, love for the king does not and this solidarity is inspiring.
While the movie was probably worth the $3 I spent to go, it was worth even more than that to listen to the Thai’s enjoying it. It was fun to listen and see what got the laughs…goofy dancing was a big hit!
I took the skytrain home, still packed even at 1030 at night, and then walked towards my apartment, despite the late hour people sat at small tables enjoying a before-bed snack of noodle soup, papaya salad and meat on a stick. I ordered some Pad Thai and ate it quietly on a plastic stool letting the honking and yelling roll over me.
I may not be Carrie Bradshaw, I may have traded stilettos for flip flops, but this was my city and I was in love, I walked the rest of the way home, letting the heavy air of Bangkok, full of noise and heat and history, kiss me goodnight.
My Sex and the City moment in Bangkok
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