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The Mother of all Weeks: Laos

Posted by Andrea on (Updated: )  |  Leave a comment

Anyone that has stayed or worked in our Luang Prabang office has heard the offspring of this next mom. Nicole interviewed Chim about being a mom in Laos:


Chim

35 years old

Hometown: Luang Prabang

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I know all mothers are busy, but this Lao mother works harder than most I have met. Not only does she take care of her own kids, but family members children from the countryside who come to school in the city as well. On top of that she is the owner and only cook for a big restaurant on the Mekong River. I see all that she does and her responsibilities because this family has adopted me into theirs. Living and working right beside there house I know intimately about Chim’s family and can see what hard work she has to do daily. She is one of the first up to dress her children for school and one of the last to go to bed after closing the restaurant. And as much as I LOVE her children, I have to say they are not the most well behaved. Like a Laos friend once told me, the sound of a child screaming and crying at the top of their lungs is a Laos traditional song. And trust me, these kids got some lungs on them!

How many kids did your mom have?

My mother had four children, two boys and two girls.

How many kids do you have? How many do you want to have?

I have four children as well, but three girls and one boy. I wanted to have eight children before because my family is small. Now that I have four I think it might be enough.

What is your favorite thing about being a mom?

That I get to have a big family. I know that I have to take care of them now, but in the future they will take care of me. When you have big family then everyone can take care of each other.

What is the hardest thing about being a mom?

Having too many kids that are young. It is difficult to give them all the same attention. They all need different things at the same time.

What is the most important advice you will or have given your kids?

To decide what is important to you and your future. Decide if you want a big family or a career.

***Note: Chim doesn’t think her job as owner and cook of the restuarant is a JOB!!!!!!****

What was the most important advice your mom gave you?

To always give my children clean milk. Everytime they want milk you should give it to them and make sure it is clean. And always wash your children daily. Three times a day if they will let you. It keeps them healthy.

What do you hope for your kids?

That they have good health and a good job. I hope my one boy works at the bank.

… Read more »

The Local's View on their Tourist Town

Posted by April on (Updated: )  |  Leave a comment

Every Friday evening I’m reminded that I live in a tourist town. The grocery store is flooded with people shopping for their weekend away, the parking lots and streets are busy and hectic and I tend to curse way more than usual. Then I stop, breathe and look around at my beautiful Lake Tahoe surroundings and remember the days when I used to come up here for the weekend because it is such an amazing place. I am grateful for the locals who welcomed me into their towns to visit and experience their hometown and hope to be a grateful local too.

Working in the tourism industry I realize that when I book a tour to Southeast Asia, I am sending our guests into someone else’s hometown. As locals in the incredible Southeast Asia area, I asked some of our staff to share something about their hometown that only a local would know.

 

Andrea Ross/ Director of Tours / Local in Siem Reap, Cambodia

 

1. If someone visiting your city had one place to visit, where would you suggest they go?

I don’t think I have a lot of choice on this one… it has to be Angkor Wat!

 

2. What is your favorite thing to do in your town?

I love the Old Market. I go and visit Pisey and watch people shop and bargain. I also happen to love my own swimming pool.

 

3. Is there a place in your town tourists do not know about, but you think they should?

Our town has been pretty well documented. The National Museum is new and I don’t think people realize how good it is, it is worth a visit, especially since it has AC!! You can also take a horse ride with Happy Ranch through the countryside, including walking through a temple or two! My aunt and I took a New Years ride on December 31st and it was a blast, a really unique way to see the countryside.

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4. Is there anything you would like to add about the place where you live?

If you’re here, come and visit us J

 

Kwanchanok “Jeab” Meechai/ Bangkok Director / Local in Bangkok, Thailand

 

1. If someone visiting your city had one place to visit, where would you suggest they go?

I would suggest them to go – Patravadi theatre has offers good food and tasty and nice location. Also if whoever interested for the performance they can also do after the meal.

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2. What is your favorite thing to do in your town?

My favourite thing to do in town is taking my dog to get a walk at the weekend at the ministry of public health. There is a lot of dog lover coming to meet up and join the weekend. I have attached my dog’s photo(Shi tsu) So I just think that there are so many foundations here still need helps like the money to support for the dogs and cats who the owner left them behind when they don’t want them anymore or had no time to take care. I know they are unlucky dogs from irresponsibility human but you can visit the link at www.home4animals.org and www.scadbangkok.org perhaps you would like to visit and play with them.

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3. Is there a place in your town tourists do not know about, but you think they should?

I would like them to know Ancient City: There is combined with interesting places of all 4 parts of Thailand there so this trip can take only one day to get to know about Thailand.

 

 

Nicole Long / Laos Director / Local in Luang Prabang, Laos

 

1.  If someone visiting your city had one place to visit, where would you suggest they go?

That is such a hard one!  I would have to say either Kuang Si waterfall or Mt. Phousi at sunset.  They are both natural and beautiful wonders.  As many times as I have seen both I remain in awe.  One extra plus Kuang Si has over Mt. Phousi is that you can take a refreshing dip in the green blue water on a hot day. You really feel like your on a movie set in a tropical jungle and then you realize that you really are (but don’t worry you rarely see any wildlife swimming around with you)!

 

2. What is your favorite thing to do in your town?

To be honest one of my favorite things to do in my town is hang out with local families and absorb their traditions and customs. They are always so welcoming and warm that I feel as if I am at home.  It is always a fun experience when they have reason to celebrate. The celebration is filled with tradition, smiles, food, and a lot of dancing (which I love).   A lot of times it can be a bit overwhelming because you’re the only farang (foreigner) and everyone is watching and taking care of you.  And you are always asked by the older Lao gentlemen of the village to dance.

 

3. Is there a place in your town tourists do not know about, but you think they should?

I don’t know if there is an actual location I think tourists should go, unless they are feeling very adventurous.  Since Luang Prabang is such a small town most tourists just stay in the main part of town and rarely go beyond about a ten block radius.  I think if a tourist really wanted to try authentic food and see how the lao spend their days and evenings then I would suggest to go a little outside of town (honestly you don’t have to go far to get the “real” experience).

 

4. Is there anything you would like to add about the place where you live?

I would only add that I hope when people come to visit Luang Prabang they take a second to really take in the beauty of the surroundings and the people.  To keep in mind that as nice as the main part of town appears, Luang Prabang is still a third world country (one of the poorest in SE Asia).  So be kind and appreciate of all that you receive while visiting and your visit here will be that much more special.  And one helpful hint:  learn a little bit of Laos phrases for your trip. The locals LOVE it when a farang speaks a little Laos, it shows respect. 

 

 

Narla Phuon/ Cambodia Director / Local in Siem Reap, Cambodia

 

1. If someone visiting your city had one place to visit, where would you suggest they go?

I will suggest them to go to Angkor Wat temple becuse it’s a temple that most the people wish to see when they are coming Siem Reap town. Visiting Angkor Wat temple complex it’s not just only the temple that they can see and explore the Cambodia history, but can also see the cocal people selling the sovenir, farmer planting and cuttting rice, understand about our tradition and culture.

2. What is your favorite thing to do in your town?

My favorite thing to do in town is having dinner with friends after the work done.  It’s nice because we all working and no time to see each other, so it’s nice to meet and enjoy food together.

3. Is there a place in your town tourists do not know about, but you think they should?

Kulen Mountain is the places that not have very many tourist go there.  There is a water fall up on the mountain. It’s not a natural site but it’s also an old place that have old temple on top was build by King Jajavaman II in 9th century. Overthere is crowded when Cambodia having the big ceremony but quiet when the cecemony done especially at rainny reason. Tourist can go there to explore about our nature and history tourism.

4. Is there anything you would like to add about the place where you live?

No, this is all have but If I found something that I think it’s good to see  I will suggest people who coming to visit Siem Reap town.… Read more »

Learning in Laos: What’s cookin’ good lookin’?

Posted by April on (Updated: )  |  Leave a comment

When my Laos director told me she had a new cooking course she wanted me to try I gently tried to bow out. Cooking is just not my thing…at all, and while I have taken fantastic Thai cooking classes I am not as big a fan of Laotian food and thought it would be a waste for me and my ‘no spice’ palate. Somehow my gentle no wasn’t enough and I was signed up. I am being honest when I say that I will not make a single dish I learned in the class, but, and this is a big but, I did have a fantastic time and would recommend the course to foodies and non foodies alike as a great way to spend a day in Luang Prabang. To get the ‘foodie’ feedback I did take my dad with me, a gourmet chef he scoffed at the idea of a cooking class, but for the opposite reasons I did, he thought it would be just too basic and boring. Can you imagine having to teach the two of us…

We took the class through Tamarind, a husband and wife run restaurant and cooking school. We started our day with a trip to the local market where we were introduced to various ingredients and challenged to try some unique dishes like pig intestines. Happy to skip that particular delicacy, it was interesting to see the market from a chefs perspective.

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Back at the school we got hands washed and aprons on. Joy, the fantastic instructor and husband (of the husband and wife team), showed us the ingredients for each dish, but then left us to our own devices to chop, grind, flavor and prepare. While this was sometimes a challenge for me (I have no idea what the heck basil looked like), Joy was always there to give a hand and check on progress. Throughout the day we tried the sauces we made, enjoyed our own sticky rice and cooked pork in a flower! The final meal was fantastic and the best part was I had cooked it all myself. I was sad that my husband and kids weren’t there to eat it, it was probably their one chance to eat a delicious ‘home cooked’ meal by me. Dad and I came from opposite ends of the culinary spectrum and we both thoroughly enjoyed the day and I am looking forward to him making me a Laos meal next time I visit!

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Insider Tip: If you don’t like spicy let them know, I didn’t eat a single spicy thing all day and still had delicious food!

Tamarind Information: www.tamarindlaos.com

… Read more »

Learning in Laos: Weave Me Alone

Posted by April on (Updated: )  |  Leave a comment

This week I came up to Laos to check out some new hotels and check in with my office. There were also some new tours I wanted to try, so with both kids in school in Cambodia it seemed like a good time to head North.

My first day I was signed up for Ock Pop Tok’s new one-day weaving course. I have to admit that I was a bit nervous the night before, you see while I love silk and am lucky enough to be around weavers a lot, thanks to Nikaya, I wasn’t all that confident I would be any good at it. In the name of research I gave it a shot, and what an amazing day.

You start the day by going to the Ock Pok Tok store, which is worth a visit in its own right. From there a tuk-tuk takes you to the beautiful weaving center. Overlooking the river Ock Pop Tok, translated East Meets West, was developed by a pair of women, one from the UK and one from Laos as a place that tourists could come and really get a lesson in the amazing arts of natural dying and traditional weaving.

My morning was spent learning which plants make which colors and dying my own silk with the expert help of my English speaking guide Morn and the expert colorist (not sure if that’s the right word, though he is similar to the lovely lady who does my hair and pretty sure she’s a colorist…though I am glad my hair is not the color of the silk I dyed…but I digress) Mr Kim.

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After an amazing lunch of local food overlooking the river I was shown the basics of weaving and I got to work. I have seen so much weaving in the last year, but still didn’t appreciate the complexity and intricacy of it. Because I had to focus so hard on each motion I had no room for other thoughts and there was no way to do my usual multitasking, I had to be completely focused on the movement of my hands and feet and the pattern I was creating. The truth is it was the closest I have, and probably ever will come, to meditation. My guide helped me figure out the movements and then a professional weaver watched over me and helped when threads broke or I made a mistake, but otherwise I was on my own. Around me the professional weavers chatted and laughed in Laos, calming and pleasurable without having to understand the words.

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By the end of the day I had made a placemat that I intend on framing for my bedroom, a reminder of that perfect day on the river where I actually did one thing at a time.

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Ock Pop Top information: www.ockpoptok.com or ask Journeys Within Tour Company to book a weaving day for you!

Actual travel date: November 15, 2008

posted by Andrea… Read more »

Laos wedding vows

Posted by Kristina on (Updated: )  |  Leave a comment

Recently the Nicole, the JWOC Laos Director, and I were invited to a wedding with our coworker and friend, Phaeng. He had a cousin who was getting married and wanted to show us our first traditional Lao celebration. On our way to the wedding that morning I asked Phaeng what time the ceremony started and he told me, “9:30 or 10 or 11,” so I wasn’t really sure if we were going to be early or late or on time.

After catching a boat across the Mekong to the opposite bank, we arrived at the bride’s village, Ban Dahn. Other than the women preparing food outside and patrolling roosters, the village seemed rather empty so I thought maybe we were early. We walked around for a few minutes before we figured out that the ceremony had already started in a small hut above us. We all took off our shoes and scampered up the stairs.

The room was crowded and there was no electricity or ventilation, so everyone was wet and fanning themselves in the ceremonial sauna. We sat down on our heels on a thin bamboo mat that covered the wooden floor. After a few minutes inside I was already drenched and I empathized with Phaeng’s cousin and his bride in their thick, long-sleeved wedding gear.

Phaeng explained that usually the bride and groom rent their wedding clothes and the bride rents special jewelry for the occasion. They looked like Lao royalty in their matching black and gold outfits and when I asked about the bride’s earrings I realized why she rented them (they were almost $2000!).

We couldn’t understand anything that was being said or done, so we just sat silently and took in the scenery. The couple sat on one side of a small whicker table that held a shrine with candles, flowers, colorful puffs that resembled Fruit Loops and some sticks with string that looked like little mops. An older man sat on the opposite side of the shrine table, preparing various items and conducting the ceremony.

The ceremony was very casual, there were men sitting in the next room talking and laughing and people were discussing things in different parts of the room while the ceremony man was doing his thing. But the bride and groom sat intently, focused on the shrine before them and the man above them.

At one point they struck a familiar pose and fed each other and drank with crossed arms. Then the man conducting the ceremony did something strange with an egg and passed them various items across the table. There was no real “repeat after me” process or vows said, but there were some chants and talking done by the master of the ceremony. The ceremony wizard then asked everyone to gather around the table and touch it, chanting something while everyone tried to squeeze in.

After the table grab, the bride and groom sat back to back and lines of men formed before the groom on one side and the women formed a line next to the bride on the opposite side. People came up one by one and tied thin white strings on the bride and groom’s wrists. As each person tied the string they paid their respects and wished the couple good luck and a happy future together. This string-tying ritual is called a baa si ceremony and the Lao people do it for many reasons: a wedding, a new baby, a new home or business, if someone is moving away or going on a long trip, even after you’ve been sick or had an accident.

After the ceremony, everyone poured out of the sweathouse onto the picnic tables set up outside. The table decorations were simple: pink napkins in a holder, bottled water, plastic cups and the staple to any Lao celebration—giant bottles of Beerlao.

Once everyone was settled, the newlyweds walked from table to table carrying a silver bowl and a bottle of “True Manhood Rich Scotch Whiskey” and the gift giving began. First they gave: a shot of Lao whiskey, then the guests gave: a small donation to the silver bowl as a wedding gift. No one brings toasters or blenders; they just toss some kip into the bowl or buy a case of Beerlao for the party.


Since Nicole and I were the only ones with cameras, we became the official wedding photographers and decided that beyond our bowl donation and Beerlao case, we would put together a proper Western wedding photo album as our real gift. As hired wedding photographers, we decided we should get a couple of farang poses for their farang photo album, like a shot of their crossed ringed and stringed hands.


It was a good day. We got to go undercover as Lao family members for the day (though we weren’t very inconspicuous as the only two farang) and the people we met were lovely. The whole celebration highlighted a marvelous aspect of Lao culture: people make do with what they have and have a good time while they’re at it.

… Read more »